by 
WHISK, DON’T RAKE 
Accumulations of debris and leaves on the 
lawn chokes off growth of new grass and 
permits nests for harmful insects. A 
thorough whisking (not a heavy raking 
that uproots new grass) in early spring 
and late fall when the weeds have stopped 
seeding gives old and newly germinated 
grass a head start in the battle against 
weeds. Experts recommend that short clip- 
pings be left on the ground. Long clippings 
should be gathered. 
HOW MUCH, OR HOW MUCH WHAT? 
In most cases, properly blended grass mix- 
tures are best for year round growth. 
Lawn mixtures contain varied proportions 
of expensive and inexpensive seed. The 
cost of your lawn seed should be de- 
termined by the known percentage of 
these proportions not by the pound of 
mere “lawn seed.’ When you buy our 
lawn seed mixtures the blend is right and 
the price is right. Whether you are plan- 
ning a new lawn or rebuilding, come in 
and talk it over. 
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OUR WEED KILLERS DO IT 
Get the weeds before they seed. The 
earlier the start the easier they can be 
controlled later on. Our selective type 
2-4D preparations sprayed on weeds, now 
makes a formerly difficult chore a com- 
paratively easy one. 2-4D sticks to weed 
leaves and is ultimately absorbed into the 
root system—the leaves turn brown within 
a few days and in about three weeks they 
are dead. 
LAWN CARE S 
NORTH 
SOUTH 
STARTING OVER, SOMETIMES PAYS 
(Left) To insure growth from those bare 
and persistently thin areas: Reseed them 
as though starting a new lawn. Dig up and 
pulverize the soil in the bare areas and 
mix with a balanced fertilizer. Reseed, 
then, roll it sufficiently to press the seed 
into the soil. (Right) When sowing lawn 
seed in large areas, choose a windless 
day. Sow in two directions; one at right 
angles to the other. 
TWO WATERING IDEAS 
(Left) Watering slopes should be done by 
soaking from the top, this permits the crest 
to get an adequate water supply before 
it runs off to the bottom of the hill. (Right) 
Sprinkling newly seeded areas should be 
done with a misty spray not a stream, 
either by hand or with an efficient sprink- 
ler, otherwise the seed will be displaced 
and gather in pools, thus ruining the even 
distribution of your sowing. 
GRUBS CAN DO HEAVY DAMAGE 
Beetle grubs feed on grass roots and are 
extremely destructive, once the infestation 
is established. Beetles lay their eggs in 
the ground near the grass roots during the 
summer months. The hatch (grubs) feed 
and sever the grass roots during the fall. 
A lawn turning brown in patches should 
be examined closely at a three inch depth 
for grubs. Use our rotenone sprays or 
poison feed applications to bring them 
under control. 
UGGESTIONS 
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GOOD GRASS MUST BE FED 
Established grass roots are notoriously 
heavy feeders. An early spring and late 
fall application of a balanced plant food 
plus a mid-summer stimulator will keep 
those grass roots busy delivering a 
healthy, lush, carpet of green. Apply uni- 
formly at about 3 lbs per 100 square feet 
when the grass is dry. Brush the plant 
food off the blades with the back of a 
rake; then water thoroughly. 
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HOW LOW TO MOW 
Mowing too close or “‘scalping,”’ allows 
the hot summer sun to quickly “burn out” 
your lawn, destroying newly germinated 
grass which is left unprotected by shade 
and so weaken the plant structure that it 
cannot survive competition against weeds 
and insects. Mower cutting height should 
be about one and a half inches. Cut when 
growth reaches two and a half inches. 
Vary the route of your cutting. 
NEED A MOLE REMOVED 
Moles feed on beetle grubs, other larvae 
and centipedes. They push up the sod and 
soil during their food search. Sometimes 
they can be poisoned or gassed out of 
activity, with specially prepared materials 
(Figure 2) or drowned out (Figure 3) or 
trapped, the latter is preferable if he’s 
up close to bulbs or shrubbery. When 
you've eliminated him, tramp the burrow 
down thoroughly or it becomes a haven 
for mice and gophers. 
