Do not let the planting operation get far ahead of the watering. Water soon and water thoroughly. 
Set the plants the same depth they were before, or a little shallower. Never set deeper. 
SPACING 
Spacings of 8 x 8 or 7 x 9 inches in the bench are in common usage. Doubling up with two plants 
or increasing the number of plants in the row across the bench is practiced when plants are too small 
or light to fill the bench with the regular spacing. Rooted cuttings benched direct, early planted indoor- 
grown plants, or field-grown plants, all can use about the same spacing in the bench. 
PINCHING 
The object of the first pinch is to produce breaks or to cause the young plants to branch. Pinching also 
sets back or impedes the growth of the plant — the lower the pinch the greater the set-back. Pinch 
high, leaving a liberal amount of foliage. Some varieties, such as William Sim and its sports, require 
particularly high pinching. 
The first pinch is made about one month after the cuttings have been potted, banded, flatted or benched. 
Let the second set of shoots reach eight or nine inches in length before pinching them, otherwise they 
will come back one-for-one. 
Pinching is also used to time the crop, bringing in a heavier cut at desired times, and keeping the crop 
down when demand is light. Varieties respond differently in length of time from pinch to bloom, and 
there is also a marked difference in response in any one variety at different seasons of the year. Pinch- 
ing about mid-July has been the rule for bringing a number of varieties to crop in December. Closer 
regulation of timing now seems probable with the advent of the single pinch method used when rooted 
cuttings are benched direct. 
Staggering the second and subsequent pinches through the spring and early summer months is a widely 
followed practice, aimed at spreading out the cut. 
Pinching is done most easily in early morning when the plants are turgid and the tip shoots snap off 
sharply. Spraying with Fermate, Zerlate or Parzate, immediately after pinching is a sound disease- 
prevention procedure. 
DISBUDDING 
Disbudding is a necessary and regular practice, calculated to throw all of the energy of each stem 
into the production of one large central flower. Early removal of the side buds means fullest conserva- 
tion of the energy for the main bud. However, from a practical standpoint, too much time is consumed 
in disbudding if the side buds are too small and too close to grasp easily and snap off. With a little 
practice, the disbudder can learn the correct twist to snap off the side buds quickly and without tearing 
the flowering shoot. Disbudding is one of the most time-consuming jobs in growing carnations, and many 
growers have found it expedient to bring in part-time or after-school help to keep up with this work. 
WATERING 
Many growers aim at running their carnation soils on the dry side. This practice probably developed 
because of the widespread prevalence of stem rots and the tendency of these rots to be more serious 
in moist soils. However, permitting carnation soils to become unduly dry hardens plants and prevents 
optimum growth and production. For profitable operation it is better to rely on the more direct methods 
of preventing stem rots (see section on Diseases and Insects) and to water sufficiently and frequently 
enough to assure free growth. 
“Avoid splashing and wetting the foliage.” Insofar as this is possible it is good advice, for some diseases 
are spread in this manner. Water carefully and do not wet the foliage unnecessarily. However, the lower 
