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INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUILDING POOLS 
“STRONG STAKE 
BRACE TO 
SIDE FRAME 
COUPLING - UNSCREW 
OVERFLOW PIPE TO 
DRAIN POOL 
The FORMAL POOL, with symmetrical outlines and straight sides 
instead of sloping is diagrammed above. The illustration shows ledges 
for shallow water plants which may be modified for convenience or 
economy. 
FORM DETAIL 
REINFORCING RODS 
OR WIRE MESH 
ROCK LEDGES 
FOR SHALLOW 
WATER EE ANTS 
On: 
LE ZAC REINFORCING RODS 
ee OR WIRE MESH 
DRAIN SHOWN FOR CONSTRUCTION 
PURPOSES IF DESIRED -- NOT NECESSARY 
TO A SUCCESSFUL POOL 
COUPLING - UNSCREW 
CVERFLOW PIPE TO 
DRAIN POOL 
The INFORMAL POOL is shown in cross section drawing above, 
which illustrates sound construction methods. Inlet and overflow con- 
nections are not necessary unless you want a fountain or running 
water, but are always convenient. 
Pools may take many forms and sizes, but all should be located where they receive plenty of sunshine. 
Usually lawn and garden conditions require the construction of a concrete basin, which, according to 
preference may take an informal arrangement resembling the natural pond as to shape, or a formal 
arrangement in round, rectangular or square shape with straight walls. 
Larger Pools should be 24 to 30 inches in depth to allow 8 to 12 inches of good soil and a sufficient 
depth of water for growing purposes and adequate winter protection. Large pots, boxes or tubs may 
be used as containers for soil which helps keep the pool water clear, and has the further advantage of 
containing individual plants and preventing overcrowding. Also soil in containers is easily fertilized, 
which is important for vigorous growth. 
THE FORMAL POOLS 
Rectangular, square or round Pools with 
vertical sides are used for formal arrange- 
ments of the Water Garden. These may be 
built in any soil by excavating the desired 
space and building forms for the side walls. 
These forms may be of wood, steel or of gal- 
vanized iron sheeting, reinforced with wood. 
Wood forms should be wetted before pouring 
concrete; metal forms wiped with oil or 
grease. For construction of ledges, pockets, 
etc., see sketch. 
‘Make inside form six inches short at the 
bottom of the outside form so that, when 
pouring the concrete for the walls, it will 
flow inside and form a lip with which the bot- 
tom concrete can bind, sealing the joints. 
The bottom must be poured before the out- 
flowing concrete from the wall forms has set. 
Smooth finished walls as described above and 
paint with cement paste. Reinforce concrete 
in walls and bottom with wire mesh as de- 
scribed above, or with light reinforcing steel 
to avoid winter cracking. 
SIDE WALLS should be at least six inches 
thick and bottoms may be 4 to 6 inches thick. 
Copings of brick, slate, limestone, etc., should 
be placed before concrete wall has set. If 
drains are desired, see sketch for details. 
THE INFORMAL POOLS 
The most popular and inexpensive Pool, and 
the one affording opportunities for the build- 
er to exercise his own tastes in design, is the 
informal, or irregularly shaped Pool. FIRST, 
stake out and mark with twine the OUTSIDE 
limits of your Pool. In the approximate cen- 
ter of the area outlined by the stakes and 
twine, excavate to a depth of 30 inches, mak- 
ing the excavation as big around as necessary 
to get the soil shoveled out. Then slope the 
sides at about a 45 degree angle towards this 
center excavation, working outward from this 
center excavation to the outline of twine, let- 
ting the bottoms be perfectly flat and as large 
as the area of the outline of twine naturally 
makes it with the walls sloping at the given 
angle. Tamp sides and bottom well. Mix a 
stiff concrete with 1 part good cement, 2 parts 
clean sharp sand and 3 parts 14” to 34” grav- 
el or cracked stone. Mix thoroughly while 
dry and add water just sufficient to make a 
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thick mixture that will lie on the sloping 
walls. Plaster the bottom and the walls of the 
excavation from the bottom to the top with 
2 to 3 inches of this concrete. Immediately 
place wire mesh over the concrete, taking care 
to overlap the mesh on bottom and sides by 4 
to 6 inches. Be sure the mesh is large enough 
to permit all gravel or stone pieces to pass 
through freely. Cover the mesh with another 
2 to 3 inches of concrete, tamping smooth and 
then smoothing surface with trowel or block 
of wood. Cover with building paper or damp 
hay or straw for 12 hours. Apply a thick paste 
of cement and water, painting it on with 
broom or whitewash brush. Recover the work 
and let it stand for 48 hours. Remove cover- 
ing, fill with water and soak for 2 or 3 days. 
Empty, stirring constantly to wash out all 
sediment. The Pool is then ready for use. 
In informal pool arrangements stones or 
bricks may be set in the fresh concrete along 
the sides near the top to form pockets or 
ledges for planting shallow water and bog 
plants. Arrange these pockets or ledges so 
that depths of from 2 to 10 inches are pro- 
vided for these various types of plants. 
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