cause : ihee iaraee ealbs will bloom from one to two 
weeks earlier than a medium size bulb of the same 
variety... There. will. be, very little difference in the 
actual quality. of the bloom and these larger bulbs 
are simply an insurance of earliest possible bloom 
in your neighborhood. While planting depth of 
these large bulbs should be 5 to 6 inches, we usually 
cover the bulb very lightly, with not more than an 
inch of soil and then. fill the trench gradually” ds the 
spikes appear. This will result in much earlier 
sprouting as the ground. will warm faster. For 
later. purchases in the following years we recom- 
mend that you buy only young bulbs of medium 
size, either size 3 or size 4 — these cost less per 
bulb — and while it takes them a few days longer 
to bloom, they will make saleable spikes, and next 
year will be large bulbs that will bloom a few days 
earlier. While many varieties, such as Oregon Rose, 
will make saleable spikes from small bulbs, defi- 
nitely these cannot compare with spikes grown from 
larger bulbs of the same varieties, and if you are 
to establish and maintain a reputation for quality 
bloom you should be careful that you do not offer 
spikes of less than good quality. 
CULTIVATION CARE 
Where available planting space is limited, medi- 
um size bulbs may be planted 8 bulbs to the foot 
by staggering | ‘the bulbs in a double row placement, 
with row spacing depending upon the cultivation 
tool. Here at Gladland Acres we prefer a 24” 
spacing from center to center of row. Cultivation 
must be thorough and frequent. However, deep 
cultivation is neither necessary nor even desirable. 
Watering, if you live in an area of normal rainfall, 
should not be necessary until development of 5th 
leaf. The bud spike is then forming within the 
sheath and frequent.and.ample water is then es- 
sential if you expect to produce spikes of normal 
and adequate height. Assuming soil is reasonably 
fertile, it has been our experience that ample water 
supply is all that is necessary to produce fine spikes, 
if your variety selection is right and your bulb stock 
was vigorous. 
CUTTING 
As we explained in a former paragraph, cutting 
may be done in tight bud, when 3 or more florets 
are showing color, but usually for the local market 
where flowers are to be delivered to the customer 
that same day or at least by the day following, 
about two florets are allowed to open in the field. 
The preferable time to cut is in early morning as 
the spikes will’ then have a maximum of water in 
the stem, and these are always more rigid before 
the hot sun begins ‘to evaporate their moisture. In 
any case no more florets will open before the fol- 
lowing morning. — 
In order not to affect the development of the 
bulb, the most effective method of leaving  suf- 
ficient leafage to develop and mature the bulb and 
still obtain a spike of maximum stem length, is to 
insert the sharp’ point of a knife through the leaf 
sheath into the stem at a point about 8 inches above 
the ground. If you will then twist the stem gently 
but firmly it separates at the point of entry of the 
knife blade and can be pulled through the sheath 
leaving all of the main feeding leaves intact. The 
spikes are then buiiched into dozens and plunged as 
soon as possible into cool water. Spikes until sold 
22 
should always be stored in an erect position to pre- 
vent tip curl. If not marketed immediately, the 
storage room should be darkened or else lighted 
with perfect light diffusion otherwise the florets will 
have a tendency to twist towards the light, thus 
making a spike with objectionable floret facing. 
Numerous methods of bunching are used. Com- 
monest is round bunching with florets facing out- 
ward; most effective is what we have heard termed 
the California pack, where the dozen are arranged 
in line, all florets facing one direction with tallest 
spike with most open florets placed in center of 
row, then graduated toward each énd. Two ties 
are made, one just below florets, held in line while 
tied, and the second at base of stem, which are 
bunched at this point. With this pack two bunches 
are placed, florets facing each other, separated by 
a wadded paper pillow, which keeps the florets 
from rubbing, and then the two bunches are tied 
together. It is remarkable how roughly these may 
be then handled, without damage to open florets 
or buds. We have seen them stacked, almost like 
cordwood, in the cutting field where they are us- 
ually assembled and tied under a canvas sun screen. 
THRIPS 
You can’t produce good bloom with thrips working 
on your plants. First, plant bulbs that are free of 
of thrips; simplest method of storing seems to be 
dusting with 5% DDT powder. If the bulbs are 
thoroughly coated (done in small quantities by 
shaking well in paper sack containing the dust, or in 
large quantities by using a revolving drum) it seems 
that no thrips can survive a winter storage. We use 
o methyl bromide fumigation which kills thrips and 
eggs, but this requires a fumigation room which 
costs money to build. 
Second, start spraying as soon as the leaves are a 
few inches high (using DDT or chlordane according 
to directions on package) and keep it up. Every 10 
days is not too often. Even though thrips are all 
around you, which they probably are, this will keep 
them under control, so that you may expect perfect 
bloom. (Note: We do not suggest dusting the grow- 
ing plant. In our experience this is not always ef- 
fective — use spray instead.) DDDT spray applied 
while florets are open, or with buds in color may 
damage floret, causing it to brown. 
DISEASE PREVENTION 
Regardless of source of supply, and even though 
the bulbs you plant are 100% free from disease, it 
is always advisable to use a fungicide preplanting 
dip, to insure as far as possible that the stock re- 
mains healthy. We find NEW IMPROVED SERESAN 
most effective. Use a 15 minute soak (a little more 
time will not cause damage) and plant bulbs the 
same day. Use 1 ounce N. |. Seresan, with 2 table- 
spoons DREFT to act as a spreader to 3 gallons of 
water. Mix Seresan and Dreft thoroughly while dry, 
add just sufficient water to make a thin paste, stir 
until paste seems smooth with no dry particles, then 
add remaining water. The concentrated paste will 
burn, so avoid getting this on the hands, after. di- 
lution the solution will not be harmful, and bulbs 
can be planted while wet. 
Probably the best booklet on gladiolus disease is 
that published by the Michigan Agricultural College, - 
East Lansing, Michigan. It may be obtained by re- 
quest to them, with 25c in coin enclosure. 
