hs (xe of Obliidls fp hs Home 
More and more indoor gardeners are finding they can grow orchids in their modern, evenly heated homes with less trouble 
than most so-called ‘house plants.” 
The information which follows is general in nature, as indeed it must be, since there are thousands of different types of 
orchids. For the most part, it pertains to the “cattleyas,” the most popular and well-known orchid, which you-have seen in corsages 
many times. Where it does not, it is so noted. 
From the time pollination takes place, it requires seven years approximately to produce a mature, flowering-size plant. The 
seed will take about one year to develop in the seed pod upon the plant. It is then planted under absolutely sterile conditions in a 
flask, or glass bottle, containing a nutrient agar solution. Here the seeds, hundreds of them to a bottle, will sprout into tiny 
seedlings. This takes about another year, after which the tiny seedlings are transplanted to “community” pots, ten, twenty, or 
more seedlings to each pot, where they grow for another year. 
They then progress into successively larger pots, 11%” (thumb pots), 2144”, 3” and 4” at about yearly intervals. Plants will 
usually flower when they reach the 4” stage, about seven years from pollination. 
After the plants reach maturity, they usually remain in the same pot for about two years, after which time they are “repotted.”’ 
Your orchids are potted in a special material, usually ‘“osmunda,” dried fern roots, if they are epiphytes (i.e. cattleyas) or some 
combination of special materials if they are semi-terrestrial or terrestrial (i.e. cymbidiums). 
_ Although no absolute rules can be written for orchid culture in such a limited space, since you are working with a living thing, 
the following suggestions will serve as a general guide for your culture: 
LOCATION: Try to give orchid plants a position near a window with as much light as possible, providing there is positive protec- 
tion against DIRECT MID-DAY SUN. Plants while in bloom can be placed anywhere at your pleasure, even in dark hallways. 
WATERING: Water once a week with one cup of water for a 5-inch pot, and proportionately more for larger pots. During hot 
summer days, watering may be increased. Orchid plants must be permitted to dry out to some degree between waterings or the 
roots will change from the healthy white or greenish color to a brown, and die. Thus, do not permit the pot to rest in a saucer or 
bowl of water. 
TEMPERATURE: Cattleyas like the usual comfortable, ordinary home temperatures. 
Odontoglossum do well in the cooler rooms, in the cool conservatory or sheltered porch. 
Cymbidiums can stand more cold than any orchid. In the San Francisco area, cymbidiums flourish in shady or protected gardens, 
in large pots in protected patios, or in unheated glasshouses. 
HUMIDITY: Plants may be set on pebbles placed in an ordinary tray or flat bowl with water. These pebbles help to give added 
humidity by the evaporation of water kept about them. It is important that the water level be below the surface of the pebbles 
on which the pot rests, and at least one inch should be allowed between the level of water about the pebbles and the bottom of the 
pot. 
The following books contain more detailed information on orchid plants, and have been published within recent years. Most 
of these you may obtain at your local book stores, and if not, we will be glad to supply them: 
ORCHIDS ARE EASY TO GROW (Logan & Cosper) $6.00 postpaid 
HOME ORCHID GROWING (Rebecca T. Northen) 6.00 postpaid 
AMERICAN ORCHID CULTURE (Edward A. White) 6.00 postpaid 
ABC OF ORCHID GROWING (John V. Watkins) 3.00 postpaid 
Suggested List for Beginners 
We have selected these plants particularly for the beginner, although of course, anyone may select them. Most of them are 
“species,” or non-hybridized plants. Because of their well defined flowering period, wealth of bloom, and their definite characteris- 
tics, species should be the foundation of every beginner’s collection. 
All of these plants are vigorous growers, and can be grown successfully in the home where no greenhouse is available, since 
they thrive at temperatures most comfortable to human beings. 
SPECIES 
Name and Description Size Price Name and Description Size Price 
C. GASKELLIANA—Native to eenees ala Sa $ rae C. WARSCEWICZII (C. gigas)—Native to 4” $ 5.00-$ 7.50 
see to medium lavender—late Phd ae Colombia. Light to medium laven- 5” 7.50 - 10.00 
: der, darker label} sith lI 6” 10.00 - 15.00 
C. labiata—Native to Brazil. Lavender— 4” 5.00- 7.50 eyes—summer. ee page. 
September and October. 5” 6.00 - 10.00 : 
C. MENDELII—Native to Colombia. Laven- 4” 5.00- 7.50 Cyp. Sues cage SONG Sn 5 7.50 - 12.50 
der flushed petals dark labellum 5” 7.50 - 12.00 th t aes ney a 
= late. sprin wi ark crimson. etals pale 
a pring. green and pouch brown-purple— 
C. MOSSIAE—"The Easter Cattleya.” Na- 4” 5.00 - 10.00 variable. 
tive to Venezuela. Light to medium 5” 5.00 - 15.00 
lavender—spring. A Mossiae house 6” 7.50 - 15.00 Odontoglossum grande—The “Tiger Or- 4” 3.00- 5.00 
in flower is pictured on the back chid.” Native to Guatamala. For 5” 5.00- 7.50 
cover. coe room or sheltered patio. Waxy 6” 7.50 - 12.00 
; “u dominately yellow with 
C. PERCIVALIANA—Native to Venezuela. 4 5.00- 6.00 owers pred Vv i 
Lavender with dark lip—Thanks- 5” 5.00- 7.50 Ara ee LOW ers Sigh ay 
iving to Christmas. 6” 7.50 - 12.00 OnE per stem a1 atoesumines Tom 
g g early winter. Pictured on cover, in 
C. TRIANAE—Native to Colombia. Light 4” 5.00- 7.50 color. 
to medium lavender, good grower 5” 5.00 - 10.00 
—winter. 6" 7.50 - 12.00 Vanda coerulea—The best known blue 5” 12.50 - 12.00 
7 10.00 - 15.00 orchid. Its sprays of blue flowers 6” 15.00 
C. WARNERI—Native to Brazil. Medium 4” 5.00- 7.50 are produced in late autumn and 
lavender—early summer. EY? 7.50 - 12.00 early winter. 
Page 17 
