AFTER PRUNING 
OF DWARF FRUIT TREES 
Pruning is an art, definitely associated with confining 
the trees to limited sizes—adapt them to various patterns— 
culture them for economic purposes such as fruit or flower 
production—stimulate and encourage the growth of new 
branches or young productive spurs—reduce the tendency 
of alternate bearing—to aid them in returning to a natural 
habit—etc. 
Pruning requires the understanding of a few basic 
principles, a bit of common sense, sharp tools and the reali- 
zation that a tree is a living thing that will do its best if 
given half a chance. 
Pruning should consist of thinning out weak wood es: 
pecially in the top and lower branches; removal of dead, 
broken and diseased branches; stopping slender outside 
shoots; cutting out the least desirable of two crossing or 
closely parallel branches. The amount and type of pruning 
necessary will vary with the age, rate of growth, type of 
tree, as well as the former pattern of pruning. 
To develop bearing spurs on the branches the most im- 
portant thing to have in mind when pruning is to expose 
as much as possible, every part of a branch to the sun. 
Thinning out is the principle to follow when the crown is 
too dense. Cutting back is advisable when one branch be- 
comes too long, give the tree a pleasant, symmetrical shape. 
Prune back such side branches that will give additional 
branches if the crown is sparse. 
Old trees which are poorly fed may be invigorated by 
pruning and feeding. In general, give the tree a well-bal- 
anced crown by discarding unproportioned branches or 
shoots. The best time to prune is just before the sap begins 
to run, early in spring. This pruning develops out their 
framework, rather than form suckers. Avoid pruning 
when the trees are frozen to prevent splitting or breaking of 
branches and fruit spurs. All cuts should be made so there 
will be a good leaf-bearing tissue beyond <he cut. They 
should be made as closely as possible to the limb or branch 
to which the part removed is attached to encourage ade- 
quate healing. Long stubs never should be left as the 
wound cannot heal. In tipping back twigs or limbs cut just 
barely above a side branch or bud so the wound will heal 
quickly. 
Dead stubs collect moisture and set up rot which likely 
will penetrate live tissues and do damage. We recommend 
sharp instruments and smooth cuts. Trees which have been 
properly pruned each season seldom require removal of 
large limbs. Wounds from 1 to 1% inches in diameter rare- 
ly develop decay. Larger wounds should be painted over 
with the antiseptic pruning paint to prevent infection. 
[49] 
