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A FEW SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS RELATIVE TO 
GLADIOLUS CULTURE 
1. SOIL. The gladiolus is not choosey. Any good soil for vegetables 
is good for glads. 
2. LOCATION. Keep away from buildings, fences, trees, hedges and 
shade of all kinds. Give the glad full sunshine, well drained soil, and 
reasonably loose ground. 
3. SOIL PREPARATION. The same as for any garden stuff. 
4. PREPARATION OF BULBS AND BULBLETS. It is not necessary 
to remove the husks before planting. Do not plant a diseased bulb, or one 
that is scrawny. Plant only healthy, solid bulbs. 
5. PLANTING. In light soil plant about six inches deep. Five inches 
is deep enough in heavy soil. Of course they will grow in shallow planting, 
but are more likely to blow over, and will not withstand a drought as well 
as in deep planting. Space large bulbs about two to the foot, and space 
rows to suit cultivation convenience. Plant bulblets in trenches two inches 
deep, sow thickly in the row, and cultivate often. 
6. FERTILIZING. Do not over fertilize. That is easily done. Ordin- 
ary good vegetable soil is good enough for glads. If you want to grow 
show spikes consult a grower who shows. There is nothing better than 
well rotted barnyard manure. Glads need lots of humus in the soil. 
7. CULTIVATION. No plant is more appreciative of good cultivation, 
or more responsive, than the glad. Keep the soil loose after every rain, and 
constantly loose during drought periods. Do not sprinkle—if you apply 
water at all, give the ground a deep soaking, then when dry enough culti- 
vate. Do this about once a week or ten days in drought for best results. 
8. FIELD OBSERVATIONS. Keep your eyes open for lost labels, dis- 
eased plants (those turning yellow and dying), and strays (pull them out). 
9. CUTTING AND CURING THE CUT FLOWERS. Best to cut early 
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