1 pound of Muriate or Sulphate of Potash to every 10 plants. 
When the soil has warmed up nicely, and not until then, is 
the time to plant. DO NOT PLANT A DAHLIA ROOT IN 
COLD, WET GROUND, and expect anything but failure. Some 
varieties may pull through, but nothing is gained by planting 
too early. A hole about 5 inches deep in heavy soil, to as deep 
as 8 inches in light sandy soil, is dug for each root, and allow 
at least 3 feet each way between holes. This for the large 
varieties. The Pompons may be spaced closer, also the minia- 
tures for mass effects. A stake should be driven close to the 
hole and the root laid therein with the eye or sprout facing 
up, and toward the stake. The root should be covered about 
two inches, and the hole gradually filled in as the plant grows. 
It may be tied to the stake with soft twine or rag to avoid 
cutting the stalk. 
For a bushy plant with numerous blooms the plant may be 
pinched out after the 3rd set of leaves form. This will force 
the buds at the base of the plant to develop and the plant will 
spread out. For large blooms, pinch out the buds on each 
branch down to the base buds leaving only one bud to a Stalk. 
This allows long stems for cutting or exhibition. As Pompons 
and Miniatures are somewhat valued in inverse ratio to their 
size none of these should be disbudded, but the young plant 
may be pinched out to make more blooms. 
There are a few insect pests which may infest your Dahlias, 
depending on your locality. Aphis or other sucking insects, or 
leaf hoppers or other chewing insects. There are a number of 
good sprays and dusts on the market, including the new DDT 
which may be used according to directions on the package. 
Your local feed store or hardware dealer will help you select 
whichever is indicated by your local conditions. 
The ground around the Dahlia plants should be kept in a 
loose condition by frequent cultivation, deep at first and then 
shallower as the plant grows and the feed roots spread out, 
and near the surface. If your summer is very hot, a mulch 
between the Dahlias of grass clippings, or other material, will 
help keep the ground cool and avoid overheating the roots. 
During extreme heat it is advisable to pick off the buds and 
not allow blossoms to form, thus saving any possible danger- 
ous wilting of the plant. 
When watering, after the buds have started to open, and 
not until then, it is better to give the ground a thorough soak- 
ing once a week or every ten days, than to sprinkle the surface 
every day. The moisture should reach down about a foot to be 
of the most value. 
Dahlia blooms should be cut either early in the morning 
before the sun starts to dry them out, or late in the evening. 
The best method of cutting for long-keeping blooms, is to 
carry a bucket of cold water into the garden and plunge the 
stem of the Dahlia into it as soon as it is cut from the bush. 
A knife should be used instead of scissors, as the object is to 
not press the stem shut, but rather leave it so that it will 
absorb water readily for the bloom. The cut flowers should - 
then be placed in the cold water container, in a cool dark 
place, and away from any drafts, for several hours, or if cut 
in the evening, over night. After that they are ready for 
PEP PPP PPP PP PEPE OEE PPR LAL AL ALARA AGA LALA GLAGOGLG OP 
“The Highest Quality Dahlia Roots Obtainable” 
