VARIETIES. 
275 
We  are  not  going  to  speak  of,  perhaps  more  than  a  tithe  of  the  plants  that 
have  a  perfume — only  those  will  be  mentioned  that  are  used  by  the  opera- 
tive perfumer,  and  such  as  are  imitated  by  him  in  consequence  of  there  be- 
ing a  demand  for  the  article ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  from  circumstances 
he  is  unable  to  sell  the  real.    The  first  that  comes  under  our  notice  is — 
Allspice. — The  odoriferous  principle  of  allspice,  commonly  called  pimen- 
to, is  obtained  by  distilling  the  dried  fruit,  before  it  is  quite  ripe,  of  the  Eu- 
genia pimento,  and  Myrtus  pimento,  with  water.  It  is  thus  procured  as  an 
essential  oil ;  it  is  but  little  used  in  perfumery,  and  when  so,  only  in  com- 
bination with  other  spice  oils ;  for  scenting  soap  it  is,  however,  very  agreea- 
ble, and  much  resembles  the  smell  of  cloves,  and  deserves  more  attention 
than  it  has  hitherto  received.  Mixed  in  the  proportion  of  two  ounces  of  oil 
of  allspice  with  one  gallon  of  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  it  forms  what  may 
be  termed  extract  of  allspice,  which  extract  will  be  found  very  useful  in  the 
manufacture  of  low  priced  bouquets. 
Almonds. — This  perfume  has  been  much  esteemed  for  many  ages.  It  may 
be  procured  by  distilling  the  leaves  of  any  of  the  laurel  tribe,  and  the  ker- 
nels of  stone  fruit ;  for  trade  purposes,  it  is  obtained  from  the  bitter  almond, 
and  exists  in  the  skin  or  pellicle  that  covers  the  seed  after  it  is  shelled.*  In 
the  ordinary  way,  the  almonds  are  put  into  the  press  for  the  purpose  of  ob- 
taining the  mild  or  fat  oil  from  the  nut ;  the  cake  which  is  left  after  this 
process  is  then  mixed  with  salt  and  water,  and  allowed  to  remain  together 
for  about  twenty -four  hours,  prior  to  distillation.  The  reason  for  moisten- 
ing the  cake  is  well  understood  to  the  practical  chemist;  and  although  we 
are  not  treating  the  subject  of  perfumery  in  a  chemical  sense,  but  only  in  a 
practical  way,  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  here  to  observe,  that  the  essential 
oil  of  almonds  does  not  exist  ready  formed  to  any  extent  in  the  nut,  but  that 
it  is  produced  by  a  species  of  fermentation,  from  the  amygdalin  and  emul- 
sine  contained  in  the  almonds,  together  with  the  water  that  is  added.  An- 
alogous substances  exist  in  laurel  leaves,  and  hence  the  same  course  is  to 
be  pursued  when  they  are  distilled.  Some  manufacturers  put  the  moistened 
cake  into  a  bag  of  coarse  cloth,  or  spread  it  upon  a  sieve,  and  then  force  the 
steam  through  it ;  in  either  case,  the  essential  oil  of  the  almond  rises  with 
the  watery  vapor,  and  is  condensed  in  the  still-worm.  In  this  concentra- 
ted form,  the  odor  of  almonds  is  far  from  agreeable  ;  but  when  diluted  with 
spirit,  in  proportion  of  about  one  and  a  half  ounce  of  the  oil  to  a  gallon  of 
spirit  or  alcohol,  it  is  very  pleasant. 
The  essential  oil  of  almonds  enters  into  combination  with  soap,  cold 
Cream,  and  many  other  materials  prepared  by  the  perfumer ;  for  which  see 
their  respective  titles. 
Fourteen  pounds  of  the  cake  yields  about  one  ounce  of  essential  oil. 
*This  is  an  error ;  the  perfume  is  generated  from  principles  residing  in  the  al- 
bumen of  the  almond,  and  not  in  its  episperm  as  stated. — Editor  Amer.  Journ. 
Pharm. 
