VARIETIES. 
367 
than  otherwise.  Some  ladies  use  a  mixture  of  half  dill  water  and  half 
rose  water,  as  a  simple  cosmetic,  "  to  clear  the  complexion." 
The  oil  of  dill  is  procured  by  submitting  the  crushed  fruit  of  dill 
(Anetlium  graveolens)  with  water  to  distillation.  The  oil  floats  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  distillate,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  funnel  in  the  usual 
manner  ;  after  the  separation  of  the  oil,  the  "water"  is  fit  for  sale.  Oil  of 
dill  may  be  used  with  advantage,  if  in  small  proportions,  and  mixed  with 
other  oils,  for  perfuming  soap. 
Eglantine,  or  Sweet  Briar,  notwithstanding  what  the  poet  Robert 
Noyes  says — 
"In  fragrance  yields, 
<c  Surpassing  citron  groves  or  spicy  fields," 
does  not  find  a  place  in  the  perfumer's  "  scent-room  "  except  in  name. 
This,  like  many  other  sweet  scented  plants,  does  not  repay  the  labor  of  col- 
lecting its  odor.  The  fragrant  part  of  this  plant  is  destroyed,  more  or 
less,  under  every  treatment  that  it  is  put  to,  and  hence  is  discarded.  As, 
however,  the  article  is  in  demand  by  the  public,  a  species  of  fraud  is  prac- 
ticed upon  them,  by  imitating  it  thus  : — 
Imitation  Eglantine,  or  Essence  of  Sweet  Briar. 
Spirituous  extract  of  French  rose  pomatum 
"  "  cassie  . 
"  "  fleur  d'orange  . 
Esprit  de  rose  
Oil  of  neroly  
Oil  of  lemon  grass  (verbena  oil) 
Elder  (Sambucus  nigra). — The  only  preparati 
odorous  quality  used  by  the  perfumer,  is  elder-flower  water.  To  prepare 
it,  take  nine  pounds  of  elder-flowers,  free  from  stalk,  and  introduce  it  to 
the  still  with  four  gallons  of  water  ;  the  first  three  gallons  that  come  over 
is  all  that  need  be  preserved  for  use  ;  one  ounce  of  rectified  spirit  should 
be  added  to  each  gallon  of  "  water"  distilled,  and  when  bottled  is  ready 
for  sale.  Other  preparations  of  elder-flowers  are  made,  such  as  milk  of 
elder,  extract  of  elder,  &c,  which  will  be  found  in  their  proper  places  un- 
der Cosmetics.  Two  or  three  new  materials  made  from  this  flower  will 
also  be  given  hereafter,  which  are  likely  to  meet  with  a  very  large  sale  on 
account  of  the  reputed  cooling  qualities  of  the  ingredients  ;  of  these  we 
would  call  attention  more  particularly  to  cold  cream  of  elder  flowers,  and 
to  elder  oil  for  the  hair. 
Tne  preparation  of  elder-flowers,  if  made  according  to  the  Pharmaco- 
poeias, are  perfectly  useless,  as  the  forms  therein  given  are  quite  absurd, 
and  show  an  utter  want  of  knowledge  of  the  properties  of  the  materials 
employed ;  we  must,  therefore  steer  clear  of  the  Pharmacopoeias,  in  our 
manufacture  of  elder-flower  cosmeties. 
Fennel  (Feniculum  vulgare). — Dried  Fennel  herb,  when  ground,  enters 
1  pint. 
i  u 
i  " 
£  drachm. 
i  " 
on  of  this  plant  for  its 
