VARIETIES. 
465 
After  standing  together  for  about  a  fortnight,  the  extract  is  fit  to  take  off. 
It  requires  considerable  time  to  drain  away,  and,  to  prevent  loss,  the  re- 
mainder of  the  orris  should  be  placed  in  the  tincture  press.  This  extract 
enters  into  the  composition  of  many  of  the  most  celebrated  bouquets,  such 
as  '  Jockey  Club/  and  others,  but  is  never  sold  alone,  because  its  odor, 
although  grateful,  is  not  sufficiently  good  to  stand  public  opinion  upon  its 
own  merits  ;  but  in  combination  its  value  is  very  great ;  possessing  little 
aroma  itself,  yet  it  has  the  power  of  strengthening  the  odor  of  other  fra- 
grant bodies  ;  like  the  flint  and  steel,  which,  though  comparatively  incom- 
bustible, readily  fire  inflammable  bodies. 
Patchouly. — Pogostemon  Patchouly  (Lindley,)  Pledrantlius  crassifolius 
(Burmett,)  is  an  herb  that  grows  extensively  in  India  and  China.  It  some- 
what resembles  our  garden  sage  in  its  growth  and  form,  but  the  leaves  are 
not  so  fleshy. 
The  odor  of  patchouly  is  due  to  an  essential  oil  contained  in  the  leaves 
and  stems,  and  is  readily  procured  by  distillation.    1  cwt.  of  good  herb 
will  yield  about  28  oz.  of  the  essential  oil,  which  is  of  a  dark  brown  color, 
and  of  a  density  about  the  same  as  that  of  oil  of  sandal  wood,  which  it  re- 
sembles in  its  physical  character.    Its  odor  is  the  most  powerful  of  any 
derived  from  the  botanic  kingdom  ;  hence,  if  mixed  in  the  proportion  of 
measure  for  measure,  it  completely  covers  the  smell  of  all  other  bodies. 
Extract  of  Patchouly. 
Rectified  spirit        ......        1  gallon. 
Oil  of  patchouly       .        .        .        ,        .        .        1|  oz. 
Otto  of  rose  .        .        .        .        .        .        $  oz. 
The  essence  of  patchouly  thus  made  is  that  which  is  found  in  the  per. 
fumers'  shops  of  Paris  and  London.  Although  few  perfumes  have  had 
such  a  fashionable  run,  yet  when  smelled  at  in  its  pure  state  it  is  far  from 
agreeable,  having  a  kind  of  mossy  or  musty  odor,  analogous  to  Lycopodium, 
or  some  folk  say  it  smells  of  "  old  coats." 
The  characteristic  smell  of  Chinese  or  Indian  ink  is  due  to  some  admix- 
ture of  this  herb. 
The  origin  of  the  use  of  patchouly  as  a  perfume  in  Europe  is  curious.  A 
few  years  ago  real  Indian  shawls  bore  an  extravagant  price,  and  purchasers 
could  always  distinguish  them  by  their  odor  ;  in  fact,  they  were  perfumed 
with  patchouly.  The  Erench  manufacturers  had  for  some  time  successfully 
imitated  the  Indian  fabric,  but  could  not  impart  the  odor.  At  length 
they  discovered  the  secret,  and  began  to  import  the  plant  to  perfume  arti- 
cles of  their  make,  and  thus  palm  off  home-spun  shawls  as  real  Indian ! 
From  this  origin  the  perfumers  have  brought  it  into  use.  Patchouly  herb 
"is  extensively  used  for  scenting  drawers  in  which  linen  is  kept  ;  for  this 
purpose  it  is  best  to  powder  the  leaves  and  put  them  into  muslin  sacks, 
covered  with  silks,  after  the  manner  of  the  old-fashioned  lavender  bag.  In 
30 
