$6o  Colognes  and  Toilet  Waters.  {A^6vemhS%r^' 
employed  very  sparingly,  if  at  all.  The  result  is  that  the  newer 
perfumes  possess  a  fragrance  and  a  fidelity  to  the  flowers  that  they 
imitate  which  is  tar  superior  to  the  older  perfumes. 
Yet  the  newer  perfume  is  quite  as  prominent  and  lasting  as  the 
old,  while  it  is  more  pleasing.  It  contains  the  synthetic  odors,  with 
balsams  or  resinous  bodies  as  fixatives,  and  employs  musk  and 
civet  only  in  the  most  sparing  manner  in  some  of  the  more  sensitive 
odors. 
A  distinction  should  here  be  made  between  artificial  and  syn- 
thetic odors.  Artificial  odors  are  composed  of  natural  constituents 
of  volatile  oils,  separated  by  fractional  distillation  or  other  means, 
and  newly  combined  to  produce  the  desired  odor ;  such  are  artificial 
oils  of  rose,  jasmine,  tuberose,  etc. 
Synthetic  odors  are  purely  chemical  products  of  definite  chemical 
composition,  such  as  vanillin,  heliotropin,  terpineol,  synthetic  oil  of 
bitter  almond,  etc.  The  solid  (or  concrete)  synthetic  odors  are  all 
valuable  as  fixing  agents,  and  are  largely  employed  as  such.  Helio- 
tropin, for  instance,  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  and  persistent  of 
fixatives,  and,  whenever  its  odor  will  allow,  is  employed  for  this  end 
alone. 
But  it  is  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  attention  to  the  balsams,  and 
particularly  benzoin,  as  a  fixing  agent  for  colognes  and  toilet  waters 
that  the  present  paper  is  designed. 
The  practice  of  using  musk  in  these  still  prevails  widely.  It  is  a 
mistake.  A  cologne  should  be  refreshing  and  invigorating.  It  has 
a  positive  therapeutic  value  in  slow  fevers,  after  surgical  operations, 
etc.,  when  it  possesses  these  qualities.  To  the  feverish  patient, 
weary  with  long  lying  in  bed  and  tired  of  the  smell  ot  medicines, 
and  in  a  room  which  seems  stuffy,  though  it  may  not  be,  the  appli- 
cation of  a  little  muskless  cologne  to  the  face  and  hands  is  at  once  a 
bath  and  a  change  of  atmosphere.  Antipyretics  may  be  more  neces- 
sary in  acute  fevers,  but  they  can  never  be  so  invigorating  and 
cheering. 
But  musk  is  depressing,  and  its  use  in  a  cologne  in  even  the  mi- 
nutest quantity  will  spoil  the  cologne  for  such  uses.  The  first  effects 
may  be  refreshing,  but  the  musk  lingers  after  the  brighter  odors 
have  disappeared,  and  a  sick  patient  is  pretty  sure  to  feel  its  effects. 
Persons  in  vigorous  health  will  not  notice  the  depressing  effects  of 
musk;  but  when  lassitude  prevails,  these  are  very  unpleasant. 
