352 
THE TABLE LAND OF THIBET. 
vation of 15,500 ft., at the back of the great range of snowy 
mountains. The pass is about ten miles north of this. 
We have Thibetan ponies, mounted thereon d la Tartare, 
but I walked a considerable part of the way, collecting 
many new plants. The Thibetans come over the frontier 
in summer to feed their Yaks, and reside in horse-hair tents. 
I entered one and was mueh amused with a fine Chinese- 
looking girl, a jolly laughing wench, who presented me 
with a slice of curd. These people eat curd with herbs, 
milk, and Fagopyrum bread — only the richer can afford to 
purchase rice. They have two sorts fof churn ; one is a 
goat-skin, in which the cream is enclosed and beaten, stamp- 
ed upon and rolled ; the other is an oblong box, a yard in 
length, full of rhododendron twigs, frosted with butter — and 
maggots. Some miles farther we reached the tents of Pep- 
pin, the Lachen Soubah,and were most graciously received 
by his squaw and family. The whole party squatted in a 
ring within the tent, myself seated at the head on a beauti- 
ful Chinese mat. The lady of the Sonbah made tea, add- 
ing salt and butter, and each produced our Bhotea cup, 
which was always kept full. Curd, parched rice, and beat- 
en maize were handed liberally round. Our fire was of 
juniper wood, and the utensils of clay, moulded at Dijarchi, 
except the bamboo churn, in which the tea, salt, and butter 
were churned previous to boiling. * * Presently a tre- 
mendous peal, like thunder, echoed down the glen. My 
companions started to their feet, and cried for me to be off, 
— for the mountains were falling and a violent storm was at 
hand. We pursued our way for five or six miles in a thick 
fog ; the roar of the falling masses from Kinchin-jow on 
the one hand and Chomoimo on the other being truly aw- 
ful. Happily, no fragments can enter the valley, by reason 
of the low hills which flank the river along whose bed we 
were journeying. Violent rain ensued, and drenched us to 
the skin. Gradually, as we ascended, the valley widened ; 
and at the altitude of about 15,000 feet we emerged into 
