180 
A  VISIT  TO  VESUVIUS. 
and  the  guides  yet  speak  of  it  as  the  great  eruption  of  1855.  In  1859  an 
eruption  occurred  on  the  side  of  the  cone,  a  stream  of  lava  running  into 
the  Atrio  del  Cavallo  and  thence  on  either  side  of  the  Hermitage  hill, 
poured  in  a  magnificent  fiery  torrent  into  the  Fossa  Grande  on  the  north 
side.  The  eruption  of  1861  vented  itself  in  a  fissure  2000  yards  long  above 
Torre  del  Greco,  one  vent  pouring  out  lava,  accompanied  by  severe  earth- 
quakes that  nearly  destroyed  the  town.  This  outlet  was  lower  down 
towards  the  coast  than  any  of  the  preceding.  In  1865  the  disturbance 
was  confined  chiefly  to  the  old  crater,  which  in  May  of  that  year  was  de- 
scribed as  being  950  yards  in  circumference,  and  perhaps  300  feet  deep. 
The  observer  remarked  that  the  small  sub-crater  at  the  bottom  would 
soon  fill  the  cavity  of  the  general  crater.  This  is  the  latest  account  we  can 
find,  previous  to  our  visit. 
Our  party,  consisting  of  seven  persons  and  the  guide,  left  the  hotel  at 
five  o'clock,  A.  M.  The  route  after  passing  Castel  Carmine,  carried  as 
along  the  Marinella  or  bay  shore,  which  at  that  early  hour  was  a  busy 
scene,  where  boatmen  and  fishermen  were  actors,  and  where  formerly 
the  Lazzaroni  were  prone  to  bask  in  the  sun.  Passing  the  Ponte  della 
Maddalena  over  the  Sebeto,  we  soon  entered  Strada  PorticiL having  the 
immense  line  of  brick  buildings,  originally  erected  for  granaries  and  now 
used  as  barracks,  on  the  right.  These  and  the  continued  walls  and 
fences  of  houses  and  villas  along  the  bay  shore  shut  out  the  view  of  the 
water,  and  detract  much  from  the  interest  of  the  ride.  Some  of  the 
shops  of  Portici  were  open,  and  already  strings  of  maccaroni  were  hanging 
out  to  dry  in  front  of  the  factories.  We  met  several  of  the  peculiar  two 
wheeled  vehicles,  with  long  shafts  harnessed  above  the  backs  of  the 
horses,  and  which  frequently  bore  as  many  as  18  to  22  poor  passen- 
gers, sitting  and  clinging  to  them,  bound  to  Naples  from  Resina.  Passing 
the  court  yard  of  the  Royal  Palace  we  soon  entered  Resina,  built  on  the 
site  of  Herculaneum,  and  where  the  Yesuvian  guides  have  their  head 
quarters.  After  making  arrangements  for  the  ascent,  we  drove  on  to 
the  guides  house  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  and  ate  our  breakfast,  and 
then  each  addressed  himself  to  the  important  business  of  selecting  a 
saddle  horse  from  the  lot  in  waiting.  Our  party  embraced  representa- 
tives from  the  medical,  pharmaceutical,  collegiate  and  mercantile  pro- 
fessions, and  despite  the  sorry  nags,  and  ancient  saddles  upon  which  some 
were  mounted,  made  quite  a  respectable  cavalcade,  at  least  in  numbers. 
The  weather  was  fine,  almost  too  warm  for  such  an  expedition,  the  road, 
not  intended  for  wheeled  vehicles,  was  narrow  stony,  irregular,  and 
hedged  in  by  fences.  Many  trees  were  in  bloom,  and  the  almond 
and  fig  had  set  their  fruits.  The  olive  blossoms  had  not  yet  opened,  but 
the  rich  scarlet  flowers  of  the  pomegranate  here  and  there  in  the  hedge 
rows,  formed  a  brilliant  contrast  with  the  foliage.  The  vine  grown  on 
stakes,  rude  trellises  and  in  festoons  is  the  most  important  crop  on  these 
