VARIETIES. 
467 
t)  a  i i  c  t  i  e  0 . 
On  Perfumery.    By  Septimus  Piesse. 
(Continued  from  page  374.) 
Besides  the  Sachets  mentioned  in  the  "  Annals"  of  last  month,  there  are 
many  other  substances  applied  as  dry  perfumes,  such  as  scented  wadding, 
used  for  quilting  into  all  sorts  of  articles  adapted  for  use  in  a  lady's  bou- 
doir. Pincushions,  jewel-cases,  and  the  like,  are  lined  with  it.  Cotton  so 
perfumed,  is  simply  steeped  in  some  strong  essence  of  musk,  &c. 
The  lasting  odor  of  Russia  leather  is  familiar  to  all  and  pleasing  to  many  ; 
its  perfume  is  due  to  the  aromatic  saunders  wood  with  which  it  is  tanned, 
and  to  the  empyreumatie  oil  with  which  it  is  curried.  The  odor  of  Russia 
leather,  however,  is  not  recherche  enough  to  be  considered  as  a  perfume  ;  but 
nevertheless,  leather  can  be  impregnated  by  steeping  in  the  various  ottos 
with  any  sweet  scent,  and  which  it  retains  to  a  remarkable  degree,  espe- 
cially with  otto  of  santal  or  lemon  grass  (Verbena}.  In  this  manner,  the 
odor  of  the  peau  d'Espagne  can  be  greatly  varied,  and  gives  great  satis- 
faction, on  account  of  the  permanence  of  its  perfume. 
Peau  d'Espagne.  (Perfumed  Letter  Paper.) 
If  a  piece  of  peau  d'Espagne  be  placed  in  contact  with  paper,  the  latter 
absorbs  sufficient  odor  to  be  considered  as  "  perfumed  it  is  obvious  that 
paper  for  writing  upon  must  not  be  touched  with  any  of  the  odorous  tinc- 
tures or  ottos,  on  account  of  such  matters  interfering  with  the  fluidity  of 
the  ink  ;  therefore,  by  the  process  of  infection  as  it  were,  alone  can  writing 
paper  be  perfumed  to  advantage. 
Perfumed  Book-markers. 
We  have  seen  that  leather  can  be  impregnated  with  odoriferous  substan- 
ces, in  the  manufacture  of  peau  d'Espagne  ;  just  so  is  card-board  treated 
prior  to  being  made  up  into  book-marks.  In  finishing  them  for  sale,  taste 
alone  dictates  their  design  ;  some  are  ornamented  with  beads,  others  with 
embroidery. 
Cassolettes  and  Printaniers  are  little  ivory  boxes,  of  various  designs, 
perforated  in  order  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  odors  contained  therein.  The 
paste  used  for  filling  these  "  ivory  palaces  whereby  we  are  made  glad,"  is 
composed  of  equal  parts  of  grain,  musk,  ambergris,  seeds  of  the  vanilla 
pod,  otto  of  roses,  and  orris  powder,  with  enough  gum  acacia,  or  gum  tra- 
gantha  to  work  the  whole  together  into  a  paste.  These  things  are  now  prin- 
cipally used  for  perfuming  the  pocket  or  reticule,  much  in  the  same  way 
that  ornamental  silver  or  gold  vinagrettes  are  used. 
