60 
HENNA  AND  KOHEUL  AMONGST  THE  ARABS. 
productive  of  dangerous  consequences.  They  also  stain  and 
unite  their  eyebrows  at  the  base  of  the  forehead,  by  using  a 
strong  decoction  of  nutgalls.  The  color  obtained  is  of  a  deep 
chestnut.  At  other  times  this  paint  is  composed  of  black  lead, 
or  again,  of  a  mixture  of  oil  and  the  cinders  of  the  saffron 
flower  {carthamus  tinctorius.)  These  flowers  are  much  cultivated 
for  their  coloring  properties.  They  contain  two  coloring  prin- 
ciples ;  one  yellow  and  soluble  in  water  ;  the  other  resinous,  red 
and  soluble  in  the  alkalies,  used  particularly  in  the  arts  and  as  a 
cosmetic.  The  Arabian  courtezans  paint  their  cheeks  with  this 
carmine. 
■  A  hygienic  practice  equally  common  with  the  use  of  henna,  is 
the  koheul.  Many  persons  think  that  this  expression,  and  the 
use  of  this  particular  substance  is  found  in  the  language,  and  is 
one  of  the  customs  of  every  oriental  nation.  The  fact  is  that 
Mahomedans  of  every  nation,  Indians,  Persians,  Negroes,  Turks, 
&c,  all  use  this  cosmetic.  The  habit  of  anointing  the  eyelids 
with  some  anti-opthalmitic  substance,  can  be  traced  to  the  very 
remotest  antiquity.  Jeremiah,  Isaiah,  Ezekiel,  St.  Jerome, 
Clement  of  Alexandria,  allude  to  it.  The  Greeks  and  Romans 
used  these  things.  Pliny  thus  expresses  himself:  "  Vis  stibii 
principalis  circa  oculos,  nam  qux  ideo  etiam  plerique  platy- 
opthalmon  id  appellaveres,  quoniam  in  calliblepliaris  mulierum 
dilatat  oculos,"  that  is  to  say,  the  principal  effect  of  the  antimony 
concentrates  itself  about  the  eyes,  hence  we  generally  call  it 
platy-opthalmos,  because  of  the  ophthalmic  ointments  used  by 
women,  this  is  the  one  which  dilates  the  eyes. 
Amongst  the  Arabs,  we  find  koheul  used  always  by  the  higher 
and  most  educated  classes.  The  use  of  this  substance,  which 
principally  consists  of  the  sulphuret  of  antimony,  was  commanded 
by  all  the  Arabian  wise  men,  and  enjoys  a  popular  reputation, 
justly  merited.  This  preparation  has  the  valuable  property  of 
preventing  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  by  its  absorbing,  owing  to 
its  dark  color,  a  large  portion  of  the  luminous  rays,  and  in  giving 
to  the  eyelids  a  tenacity  which  enables  them  to  contract  and 
relax  much  more  easily.  It  also  prevents  a  supersecretion  of 
tears,  and  thus  renders  the  sight  clear  and  strong.  Its  composi- 
tion is  variable ;  ordinarily,  koheul  is  made  of  nothing  but  the 
sulphuret  of  antimony  finely  powdered,  which  is  mixed  with  a 
