b  a  x i  e  t  i  t  b  . 
On  Perfumery.    By  Septimus  Piesse. 
(Continued  from  page  558/ vol.  iii.  1855.) 
Emulsines. 
From  soaps  proper  we  now  pass  to  those  compounds  used  as  substitutes 
for  soap^,  which  are  classed  together  under  one  general  title  as  above,  for 
the  reason  that  all  cosmetiques  herein  embraced  have  the  property  of  form- 
ing emulsions  with  water. 
Chemically  considered,  they  are  an  exceedingly  interesting  clsss  of  com- 
pounds, and  are  well  worthy  of  study.  Being  prone  to  decomposition,  as 
might  be  expected  from  their  composition,  they  should  be  made  only  in 
small  portions,  or,  at  least,  only  in  quantities  to  meet  a  ready  sale. 
While  in  stock  they  should  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible,  and  free  from  a 
damp  atmosphere. 
Amandine. 
Fine  almond  oil                    .  7  lb. 
Simple  syrup*  .  .  4  oz. 
White  soft  soap,  or  saponaceous  cream, 
i.  e.,  Creme  d'Amande     .  .         1  oz. 
Otto  of  almonds        .            .  1  oz. 
"      bergamot       .            .  1  oz. 
"      cloves            .            .  ^  oz. 
Rub  the  syrup  with  the  soft  soap  until  the  mixture  is  homogeneous,  then 
rub  in  the  oil  by  degrees  ;  the  perfume  having  been  previously  mixed  with 
the  oil. 
In  the  manufacture  of  amandine  (and  olivine)  the  difficulty  is  to  get  in 
the  quantity  of  oil  indicated,  without  which  it  does  not  assume  that  trans- 
parent jelly  appearance  which  good  amandine  should  have.  To  attain  this 
end,  the  oil  is  put  into  "  a  runner,"  that  is,  a  tin  or  glass  vessel,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  is  a  small  faucet  and  spigot,  or  tap.  The  oil  being  put 
into  this  vessel  is  allowed  to  run  slowly  into  the  mortar  in  which  the  aman- 
dine is  being  made,  just  as  fast  as  the  maker  finds  that  he  can  incorporate 
it  with  the  paste  of  soap  and  syrup,  and  so  long  as  this  takes  place,  the 
result  will  always  have  a  jelly  texture  to  the  hand.  If,  however,  the  oil  be 
put  into  the  mortar  quicker  than  the  workman  can  blend  it  with  the  paste, 
then  the  paste  becomes  "  oiled,"  and  may  be  considered  "  done  for,"  unless, 
indeed,  the  whole  process  be  gone  through  again,  starting  off  with  fresh 
syrup  and  soap,  using  up  the  greasy  mass  as  if  it  were  pure  oil.  This 
*Simple  syrup  consisting  of  3  lb.  of  loaf  sugar  boiled  for  a  minute  in  one 
pint,  imperial,  of  distilled  water. 
