CANTALOUPE, Hale’s Best 
LETTUCE, Early Curled Simpson 
Vegetable Seed Culture 
There's no end to the science of vegetable gardening—nor to the books that have 
been written about this fascinating subject. But if you haven't the time to read 
all the books, then iry the brief paragraphs that follow, Here are the fundamental 
facts—the things every vegetable gardener should know—AND DO! 
ASPARAGUS 
Soak seeds 24 hrs. before planting. Sow in 
loose, rich, moist soil- after weather warms 
up. Thin to stand €” apart. In early spring, 
set in permanent position, 24” apart, in 
rows 20” apart. Set in hole so that crown 
is 8% below surface, but only cover tips 
with 3” of soil. As plants grow, fill in 
until level. Don't cut first year after setting. 
SNAP BEANS 
Don't plant until the weather is warm and 
settled. 
Sow beans in bottom of 3” to 4” furrow, 
24” between rows, but do not fill in with 
more than 114” of soil over seeds. Thin to 
stand 4” to 6” apart in row. Bean seed- 
lings are likely to be slowed up pushing 
through heavy soil. In such soils, cover 
seeds with mixture of half sand and half 
soil, or sand and peat or any other loose, 
.light material that will allow seedlings to 
break through easily. 
Make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks. 
Don't cultivate beans when wet: this may 
spread disease. 
BUSH LIMA BEANS 
Plant two weeks later than bush snap 
beans, when soil is warm, Space rows 24” 
apart; otherwise follow instructions for 
snap beans, 
‘ 
SQUASH, Early Prolific 
Straightneck 
CABBAGE, Golden Acre* 
POLE BEANS and POLE LIMAS 
Both these should be planted two weeks 
after bush beans. Rough poles set 3 feet 
apart should be used. Anchor well, as 
heavy beanvines blow over easily. Some- 
times three poles set to form a tepee are 
used and several seeds planted around 
each tepee. 
SPECIAL NOTE ON ALL BEANS: 
Two scientific facts about beans will 
help produce better crops. First, being 
legumes, they should be inoculated with 
special legume culture listed in supply 
section. This enables plants to manufacture 
their own nitrogen from the air. Second, 
bud drop of the tiny flowers (even befor 
they can be easily seen) cuts the early 
set of pods. By spraying with a fruit set- 
ting spray these buds are held on and the 
early crop increased by as much as 100 
per cent. 
BEETS 
Each “seed” is a fruit with several true 
seeds. No matter how thinly beets are 
sown, they will need thinning. Plant as 
soon as ground can be worked in spring, 
thin gradually (use thinnings as greens) 
until roots stand 3” apart. Make three sow- 
ings, one early, one three weeks later and 
one 60 days before fall. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Grow like late cabbage, but don’t use 
until after heads have matured. 
CARROTS 
Pick carrots when they are the size of 
your little finger for sweetest flavor. They 
can also be left to grow to maturity for 
storage, When harvesting always remove 
alternate carrots to give space to the re- 
maining ones, 
EARLY CABBAGE —— COLLARDS 
Start plants inside. Set out 12” x 24” as 
soon as weather is settled. Dusting with 
D.D.T. is safe if outer leaves are discard- 
ed, since plant grows from the inside out. 
LATE CABBAGE 
Direct-seed four months before crop is 
wanted. Or start plants indoors 30 days 
before needed, transplanting outdoors 90 
days before frost. Don't water freely when 
heads are nearly filled, as this promotes 
splitting; irrigate only enough to keep 
plants growing well. 
CELERY 
Start in hotbed 60 days before needed. 
In setting outdoors, don’t get soil in or 
over crown. Set 7” to 12” apart. Soil must 
be rich, moist and loose. As soon as plants 
Have grown to 14% to 15” fall =ser 12” 
boards on both sides of row and hold in 
place with earth. Or 4” drain tile can be 
used to blanch individual stalks. Celery 
must have warm, settled weather: if 
chilled, plants are likely to go to seed. 
(Continued on page 18) 
CABBAGE, Danish Ballhead 
