4 P. J. BERCKMANS COMPANY, AUGUSTA, GA. 
General Information for Planters 
PREPARATION ОЕ THE SOIL.—The most desirable soil for fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made so by drainage. 
Before planting prepare the land by thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first using a two-horse plow, followed by a subsoil plow. 
Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig holes at least 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep; fill the holes by breaking in the sides, 
commencing at the bottom and going upwards. Use surface soil in filling up, and witn this mix a shovelful or two of cotton 
seed and stable manure compost, well decomposed, or about one pound of bone meal. Avoid the contact of the roots with heat- 
ing manure. 
SELECTION OF TREES.—For this climate, experience has taught us that one- and two-year-old trees of thrifty growth are 
the most desirable. Purchasers should bear in mind that such trees can be removed from the nursery with all their roots, 
whereas a four- or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up without cutting away a large portion of them. Success in transplanting 
is increased according as attention is paid in selecting well-rooted trees, instead of heavily branched ones. Give as many sound 
roots, and as little head to a tree as possible. 
PREPARATION OF THE TREE.—Before planting, remove all broken roots. Cut back one-year peach or apple trees to 
a naked stem 1% to 2% feet high, leaving no side branches. Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut back to half 
their length or more, the lower limbs less than those above, cutting in shorter as you go upward, and leaving the leader the 
longest. Plant as deep as the tree was standing in the nursery row, except dwarf pears and cherries, which should be planted 
sufficiently deep to cover the stock from 2 to 3 inches. It is best to allow the tree to form its head in its permanent place rather 
than in the nursery row. 
To insure the earliest crop of fruit after transplanting, always select one- or two-year-old trees. 
TIME FOR PLANTING.—In this climate, vegetation, although inactive in winter for the formation of leaves and new wood, 
is never so as to new roots. A tree transplanted in November or December will by the ensuing spring have formed sufficient 
new roots to give it a firm hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly when active vegetation commences. Plant as early after 
the first killing frost as practicable, and do not delay it until the spring months. Apple trees can be transplanted here as late as 
March, and in some seasons the first of April, but success is increased if the planting has been done in the fall or early winter. 
AFTER-CULTURE—For Gardens. Keep the soil free from grass and weeds, and stir frequently during the summer. 
Remove all suckers and branches which start below the head of the tree. Mulching is advisable for trees planted late in the spring. 
For Orchards, Drill in cow-peas in May or June or keep the ground planted in cotton, vegetables or melons. Leave at 
least 4 feet between trees and crop. Cultivate frequently until middle of August. Do not plant corn or small-grained crops in 
your orchard if soil is of light character, but for stiff soils devoid of vegetable matter, sow rye, scarlet clover or barley in fall, 
using a suitable commercial fertilizer; turn under in spring and drill in peas as above directed. If devoid of lime or potash. 
supply the deficiency by a top dressing of bone meal, plaster or good commercial fertilizer. 
To insure a healthy growth of fruit trees, the land should be kept well supplied with plant-food. Lands exhausted by years 
of cropping cannot return a crop of fruit unless the trees are well cultivated and regularly fertilized. 
CARE OF TREES ON ARRIVAL.—If not ready to plant on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold or air, dig a 
trench, and heel-in by carefully covering the roots with earth, and give a copious watering. Trees thus treated сап remain in 
the trenches until ready for their permanent places in the orchard. If frozen when received, bury the trees without unpacking 
in well-drained ground, or place in a cool cellar until thawed, without exposure to air or light. 
Injurious Insects 
The rapid increase of insects injurious to fruit and fruit trees necessarily compels the horticulturist to obtain a knowledge 
of their habits, that he may provide means to oppose their ravages; otherwise he must remain at their mercy, and find that pay- 
ing crops become more and more uncertain. The limits of this catalog allow only space for the enumeration of the most destruc- 
tive and abundant species which infest the orchards and vineyards, and the best remedies as suggested by leading entomologists. 
The following remedies are compiled from the latest recommendations of the most prominent entomologists and pathologists: 
APPLES 
Apple Worm (Carpocapsa pomonella), or Codling-moth. 
Spray with Paris green at the rate of 6 ounces to 50 gallons of | 
water or Bordeaux mixture after the blossoms have fallen, and 
before the ealyx lobes elose. Repeat in one week. It is gener- 
ally conceded that earlier or later sprayings than mentioned 
above are of no value when dealing with the codling-moth. Itis 
necessary, therefore, to spray just after the petals fall and 
before the ealyx lobes close, in order to fill this cup with poison 
at the only time it is possible to do so. Bordeaux not being 
strictly an insecticide, does not act against the codling-moth, 
but it is always well to use it with Paris green to prevent apple 
scab or other fungous diseases. 
Borer (Saperda candida). Examine trees in spring and 
again in June and dig out the grubs with a wire. Then wash 
the collar of roots and parts of the body with a mixture of lime 
and sulphur. 
Caterpillar (Olisiocampa Americana). Destroy nests as 
вооп as they appear in spring by burning, or spray with Paris 
green 8 ozs., lime 1 lb., water 50 gals. 
Spring Canker Worm (Paleacrita vernatta). Encirele the 
tree with a canvas belt coated thoroughly with tar or train oil, 
Or spray with 4 ounces Paris green to 50 gallons Bordeaux or 
water, 
Woolly Aphis (Schizoneura lanigera). For above-ground 
colonies; wash trees with solution of whale-oil soap or kero- 
sene emulsion. For root-inhabiting colonies, remove the soil 
to a depth of about three inches, or sufficient to partially 
expose the roots; open a circle from 4 to 8 feet in diameter, 
depending on the spread of the roots, distribute three to eight 
pounds of tobacco dust or use 15 per cent kerosene emulsion. 
Enough emulsion should be used to saturate the soil to a depth 
of 3 or 4 inches. Recent experiments have shown that kero- 
sene emulsion may be used with success. 
PEACHES AND PLUMS 
Curculio (Conotracheus nenuphar). Spray the trees before 
the blossoms open, with a solution of Paris green, 4 ounces, 
lime 1 pound, to 50gallons of water. Use Bordeaux with Paris 
n. when the blossoms һауе fallen; ten days later Bordeaux 
and Paris green. If peach and plum trees are in foliage, use 
3 pounds copper sulphate, 9 pounds lime and 50 gallons of 
water; a stronger mixture will burn the foliage. Then follow 
with a large hopper made of sheeting and having a spread of 
10 to 15 feet, having a slit in same so that the tree can be 
eneireled; give the trunk a quick blow with a padded club; 
this causes the curculio to fall. Dump the insects into a jar of 
kerosene. Jarring should be done daily, beginning at daylight 
and continuing until eight or nine o'clock. It will hardly pay 
to jar the trees at any other time. Continue the jarring until 
the orchard is rid of the insects. 
Peach Tree Borer (Sanninoidea exitiosa). During Novem- 
ber and December, remove the earth from around the collar 
of the roots and carefully remove all borers by using a sharp 
knife or special hook made for the purpose. During spring 
examine trees again to see if any borers were missed during 
the fall work. About July 1 apply a wash to a height of 18 or 
20 inches. Immediately afterward, draw the earth up to the 
tree, forming a cone, to about 6 or 8 inches above the level. 
The following is an excellent wash for peach trees; One 
bushel of quick lime, 20 pounds of sulphur, 1 gallon coal tar, 
50 gallons water. Mix tar and sulphur in 10 gallons of water 
in barrel, add lime, keep well stirred. When entirely slaked, 
dilute to 50 gallons. Apply with a brush in winter to body and 
larger limbs of the tree. Make a second application of the wash 
during August or September if necessary to keep the bark 
thoroughly coated. During the last week of October remove 
the mound and thoroughly scrape and worm the trees. After 
worming, apply a wash, as it may kill many little borers which 
have been exposed but not killed by the worming process. 
San Jose Scale (Aspidiotus perniciosus). This attacks peach, 
pear, apple, quince, cherry, raspberry, rose, and a number of 
other trees and shrubs. For winter treatment we would гес- 
ommend either lime-sulphur wash or lime-sulphur-salt wash. 
Experiments have shown that salt is not necessary, but is pre- 
ferred by some people. Spray in December and again late in 
February or early March. For summer treatment would sug- 
gest spraying with kerosene emulsion, one part of emulsion to 
five of water, or use the regular strength of lime, sulphur and 
salt mixture, applying this with a brush to the trunks and 
larger limbs only. None of this mixture should be put on the 
foliage or young growth. 
Lime, Salt and Sulphur Wash. Lime, unslaked, 25 lbs.: 
sulphur, ground, 20 lbs.: salt, 10 lbs.; water to make 60 gal- 
lons. Place 8 or 10 gallons of water in an iron kettle over a 
fire, and when it reaches the boiling point add the sulphur and 
mix thoroughly, then add the lime, which will immediately 
produee a violent boiling. From time to time add a small 
quantity of water as needed to prevent boiling over or burn- 
