General Information for Planters 
Preparation of the Soil 
The most desirable soil for fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry, or made so by drainage. Before 
planting, prepare the land by thorough plowing and subsoiling, first using a 2-horse plow, followed by a sub- 
soil plow. Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig holes at least 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep; fill the 
holes by breaking in the sides, commencing at the bottom and going upwards. Use surface soil in filling up, 
and with this mix a shovelful or two of cotton-seed and stable-manure compost, well decomposed, or about 1 
Ib. of bone meal. Avoid the contact of the roots with heating manures. 
Selection of Trees 
For this climate, experience has taught us that one- and two-year-old trees of thrifty growth are the most 
desirable. Purchasers should bear in mind that such trees can be removed from the nursery with all their 
roots; whereas a four- or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up without cutting away a large portion of them. 
Success in transplanting is increased according as attention is paid in selecting well-rooted trees, instead of 
heavily-branched ones. Give as many sound roots, and as little head to a tree, as possible. 
Preparation of the Tree 
Before planting, remove all broken roots. Cut back one-year peach or apple trees to a naked stem 1% 
or 274 feet er lekrig no side branches. Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut back to half 
their length or more, the lower limbs less than those above, cutting in shorter as you go upward, and leay- 
ing the leader the longest. Plant as deep as the tree was standing in the nursery row, except dwarf pears and 
cherries, which should be planted sufficiently deep to cover the stock from 2 to 3 inches. It is best to allow 
the tree to form its head in its permanent place, rather than in the nursery row. 
To insure the earliest crop of fruit after transplanting, always select one- or tavo-year-old trees. 
TIME FOR PLANTING. In this climate vegetation, although inactive in winter for the formation of 
leaves and new wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree transplanted in November or December will by the 
ensuing spring have formed sufficient new roots to give it a firm hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly 
when active vegetation commences. Plant as early after the first killing frost as practicable, and do not delay 
it until the spring months. Apple trees can be transplanted here as late as March, and in some seasons the 
first of April, but success is increased if the planting has been done in the fall or early winter. 
After = Culture 
FOR GARDENS. Keep the soil free from grass and weeds, and stir frequently during the summer, 
Remove all suckers and branches which start below the head of the tree. Mulching is advisable for trees 
planted late in spring. 
FOR ORCHARDS. Drill in cow-peas in May or June, or keep the ground planted in cotton, vegetables 
or melons. Leave at least 4 feet between trees and crop. Cultivate frequently until middle of August. Do 
not plant corn or small-grained crops in your orchard if soil is of a light character, but for stiff soils devoid 
of vegetable matter sow rye, scarlet clover or barley in fall, using a suitable commercial fertilizer; turn under 
in spring and drill in peas as above directed. If devoid of lime or potash, supply the deficiency by a top- 
dressing of bone meal, plaster, or good commercial fertilizer. 
To insure a healthy growth of fruit trees, the land should be kept well supplied with plant-food. Lands 
capota by years of cropping cannot return a crop of fruit unless the trees are well cultivated and regularly 
ertilized. 
Care of Trees on Arrival 
If not ready to plant on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold or air, dig a trench, and heel- 
in by carefully covering the roots with earth, and give a copious watering. Trees thus treated can remain in 
the trenches until ready for their permanent places in the orchard. If frozen when received, bury the trees and 
or material in well-drained ground, or place in a cool cellar until thawed, without exposure to the air or 
ight. 
Insects 
The rapid increase of insects injurious to fruit and fruit trees necessarily compels the horticulturist to 
obtain a knowledge of their habits, that he may provide means to oppose their ravages; otherwise he must 
remain at their mercy, and find that paying crops become more and more uncertain. The limits of this Cata- 
logue allow only space for the enumeration of the most destructive and abundant species which infest the 
orchards and vineyards, and the best remedies as suggested by leading entomologists. 
APPLES 
Borer (Saperda Candida). 
when dealing with the codlin moth. It is necessary, therefore, to 
spray just after the petals fall and before the calyx lobes close, in 
Examine trees in spring and again order to fill this cup with poison at the only time it is possible to do 
Then wash the collar so. Bordeaux, not being strictly an insecticide, does not act against 
in June, and dig out the grubs with a wire. 
of roots and part of the body with a mixture of lime and sulphur. 
Caterpillar (Clisiocampa Americana). Destroy nests as soon 
as they appear in spring. 
Apple Worm (Carpocapsa pomonella), or Codlin Moth. Spray 
with Paris Green at the rate of 4 ounces to 50 gallons of water or 
Bordeaux Mixture, after the blossoms have fallen, and before the 
calyx lobes close. Repeat in one week. It is generally conceded 
that earlier or later sprayings than mentioned above are of no value 
the codlin moth, but it is always well to use it with Paris green to 
prevent apple scab or other fungous diseases. 
Aphis, Woolly (Aphis lanigera). Wash trees with solution of 
whale-oil soap or kerosene emulsion. 
Aphis, Root (Pemphigus Pyri). Scrape the earth away and 
wash with soap-suds or kerosene emulsion. 
Canker Worm (Anisopteryx vernata). Encircle the tree 
with a canvas belt, coated thoroughly with tar and train oil. 
