18 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER, 
OcTOBER I, 1902 
something conspicuous enough to reecive 
the name. 
Old “staggy” stocks are frequently used 
to force strong shoots in a single season, 
and these in turn are pinched during 
summer, and a pseudo set of branches 
forced from a green and cabbage stalk class 
of wood: This is our normal two-year-old 
tree. These summer-pinched trees are no 
good, as the branches are not really 
branches capable of yielding useful growth, 
nor is the stem below them of much more 
worth, for in the absence of leaves being 
allewed to ripen, no perfect sap has formed, 
and, consequently, the stem is unripe and 
valueless. 
It will pay to have well-made trees, cost 
what they may. 
A good tree is cheap at a shilling, but a 
bad one is dear at a gift. 
The sending out of dried-up and half- 
dead stock shouldbe at the risk of the 
vendor. The manipulating of trees to 
make them appear what they are not 
shculd be regarded as much an offence 
against the person as the adulterating of 
wine or any other food stuff. 
Those who cannot protect themselves 
and are worthy of protection should re- 
ceive such aid as the State can give. 
The fruit industry cannot be any more 
to the average man in the future than it 
has been in the past, unless he starts from 
safer premises, and secures a bundle of trees 
which are not only true to name but all 
they should be in root, and trunk, and 
branch. 
Vegetable Gardening. 
Notes on Vegetable Growing. 
[From “The Journal of Agriculture.” By 
C. Quinn | 
N the plains country a successional sow- 
ing of all of the melon family should be 
made, and as this season is somewhat ad- 
vanced, every chance should be given to the 
late starters. A plentiful supply of well-rotted 
stable manure, worked into the soil prior to 
sowing, and occasional doses of liquid manure 
when developed leaves appear, are the best 
means to secure this result. 
Most melons thrive in humid temperatures, 
and overhead watering, by means of sprinklers 
running very gently, when the sun is not too 
hot, bring about such conditions pretty stc- 
cessfully. , 
Sowings of dwarf and runner beans will be 
continued. I wish to repeat again the néed 
for covering the seeds with pulverised manure 
if a good even germination and stand of 
plants is hoped for. 
These do not require richly nitrogenous 
manures, such as “fat” barnyard manure ; 
but good results accrue from the use of phos- 
phatic manures, such as superphosphate, 
A good plan is to sow the seeds in the 
drill, cover them lightly with soil, on to which 
a thin sprinkling of the super. is dusted. 
On top of this spread the manure mulch. 
_ Potatoes and onions will. be harvested on 
the plains. The latter should be put away 
carefully as soon as dug, to checkmate any 
attacks of the potato moth. ‘The keeping 
onions require to be handled carefully. 
Every oniongrower should select a few of 
the best bulbs for the purpose of obtaining 
reliable seeds, and before the flowers expand 
a finely-meshed cheesecloth should be 
wrapped around the heads—not touching 
them—to prevent hybridisation with inferior 
sorts. 
The sowing of Red and Silver beets, and 
lettuces, cresses, and radishes, for salad pur- 
poses, will be continued. The three last- 
named should be sown in shady, cool posi- 
tions. Given abundance of water and liquid 
manure to force them, these salad plants 
may be grown fairly well on the plains, but 
the cool, damp gullies of the hills are the main 
sources of supply for the summer months. 
Tomatoes are now pretty well advanced, 
and those trying to secure good early fruits 
should keep the flowerless side shoots 
pinched out, and the main shoots tied up 
firmly to supports. 
When the ground is warm in summer, 
the fruits almost resting upon the ground 
ripen most evenly; but in the spring, a 
wall or close fence on the south side, to 
reflect the warmth, gives the best results 
upon tomatoes staked fairly well above the 
surface. There is time now to set out 
young tomato plants for bulk crops. Egg 
fruit and capsicum plants should also be set 
out. 
Asparagus plants should now be allowed 
to make unchecked growth, and dressings 
of potash and soda manures, as well as a 
surface mulch of decayed stable manure, 
could be applied to them advantageously. 
In dry localities, good soakings of water 
should be given immediately after these 
manures are spread. ; 
In the hills, pretty well all kinds of vege- 
table, will be grown upon the rich, sheltered 
flats, sowings and transplantings following 
each other somewhat like they do in early 
winter on the plains, with the exception that 
summer and winter vegetables are not so 
clearly defined as on the plains. 
With the advent of warm days evapora- 
tion will be enormous, and to counteract 
this loss of moisture the surface soil between 
all growing crops of vegetables should be 
frequently stirred, more especially after rain 
showers or irrigation. ’ 
()———— 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
Top-dress Asparagus beds. 
Sow for late crops—Peas, Potatoes, Radish, 
Carot, Parsnip. 
On soil situated near water plant late varie- 
ties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce. 
Sow all varieties of summer vegetables, 
such as French Beans, Tomatoes, Trom- 
bones, Turk’s Head, Cucumber, Water- 
melon, Sweetmelon, Cape Gooseberry, Cap- 
sicum, and Egg Plant, Sweet Corn. 
When planting out Tomatoes and other 
seedings care’ should be taken to protect. 
them from cold. winds and frosts, 
Culture of Tomatoes for 
Canning. 
PrECoOS 
[From “The Agricultural Gazette’ N.S.W.] 
D:. E. J. Dirickson, Worcester County, 
in ‘“‘American Agriculturist,’ writes as 
follows :— 
For the past five years I have beena 
tomato grower to what might be con- 
sidered a large extent, having 50, 60, or 
even 80 acres under cultivation. The 
smooth, round, medium red varieties are 
best. I will confine myself to three, all 
equally good —‘“Ignotium,” ‘ Trophy,” 
and “ Favourite.” ‘To be a good variety 
it must ripen uniformly and have many 
cells in its interior, thus assuring as much 
solid substance as possible. 
PLANTING AND CULTIVATION. 
Proper planting of seed is very impor- 
tant. Select a light, loamy soil as near 
the tomato field as possible, and spread 
it heavily with fine stable manure, plough- 
ing it in 5 inches deep prior to the seed- 
ing, which in this locality can be done 
with safety about April 1oth. [In 
Australia this would correspond with 
about September or as soon as dangerous 
frosts need no longer be apprehended.— 
Ep.] It shouldbe wellcultivated androlled 
smooth. 
If cultivation by the harrow is inten- 
ded, mark out the rows 3 feet apirt with 
broad and shallow furrows. Sow the 
seed by hand so there will be about twenty 
plants to the foot, and cover lightly with 
a rake about half an inch deep. 
{f the season bids fair to be a dry one, 
it is better to run a light roller over the 
rows of seed, after first putting fertiliser 
on the furrows at the rate of at le ist 1,000 
pound per acre. Seeds planted in this 
manner should grow rapidly. When 
about an inch high, shallow cu tivation 
should be repeated every four of 
five days. he manure renders the soil 
very light and porous, making it easy to 
pull plants. They come up without broken 
root or bruises. 
When the plants are about six inches — 
high they are ready for setting in the 
field. In my county, land best adapted 
for this purpose isa red clay soil that has 
been in clover, peas, or wheat the pre- 
vious season. ‘The soil should be of a 
close firm texture, well-drained, ploughed 
to a depth of about six inches, harrowed 
and rolled at least one month before 
setting the plants. Ifamachine is used in 
marking, no furrowing is necessary. If 
the plants are set by hand, it is best to 
mark the ground shallow one way, and _ 
marking with a deeper furrow crosswise 
immediately after setting the plants. If the 
fertiliser isput in the hill, it should be well 
scattered, as tomato plants are often killed 
by coming in contactiwith the phosphate. I 
generally prefer to fertilise after setting 
the plants. 
If the ground is very dry, the plants 
after being pulled should have their roots 
puddled in mud and set out before drying. 
They should be put well in the ground 
s 
