10 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
matter in which we have to bow to circum- 
stances, and make the best use of what we 
have. An ideal situation is one with an 
eastern aspect, and protected from strong 
northerly or westerly. winds by trees or 
fences. Where the ‘shelter of avhedge or 
trees is not available, fences or trellises 
on which climbing Roses can be grown 
form the best protection from wind, as the 
roots of trees or large shrubs rob the Rose 
bed if at a less distance than 25 ft. or 30 ft. 
Authorities advocate the planting of Roses 
in a bed to themselves, but in many cases 
this is not always possible. I have adopted 
this principle as far as I can, and after a 
good deal of hesitation and considerable ad- 
verse family criticism, grubbed out a num- 
ber of vines and plum trees, which were 
producing fruit for starlings and sparrows, 
in order that ~ might establish a small 
rosery where my plants might grow un- 
molested, and I could properly enjoy my 
hobby. y 
SOIL. 
Any ordinary garden soil will grow 
Roses if properly cared for, but undoubtedly 
that best fitted to produce them in perfec- 
tion is a good deep, heavy loam resting upon 
a clay subsoil. With this good drainage is 
indispensable, for in cases where the water 
lies in the subsoil it is absolutely necessary 
to carry it away by artificial drainage, which 
is also advantageous, inasmuch as it keeps 
the ground moist and the surface loose and 
open. I attach great importance to the 
preparation of the Rose bed. It entails 
more labour and expense in the first place, 
but this is well repaid by after results. The 
ground should be well trenched toa depth 
of at least 2 ft:, and a good dressing of stable 
or well-rotted cow manure, with a sprink- 
ling of bonedust thoroughly incorporated 
with the whole of the soil. This should be 
done if possible some time before planting. ~ 
Mr. C. H. Halstead, of New South Wales, 
one of the best authoritiés in Australia on 
this subject, writes :—‘‘ A’ Rose will’ send - 
up any number of strong new shoots during 
the course of its existence, and the secret 
of proper pruning is to continually, but 
gradually, change the wood every two or 
three years. Too many buds should not be 
left, as most of them will shoot in the spring 
and produce flowers, and if there are too 
many of them they will crowd each other 
and spoil the size of the blooms. The top 
bud on a pruned shoot should always point 
outward, and if the young shoots in the 
early spring appear too thick, some of them 
should be rubbed off.” 
With regard to Roses trained on trellis, 
fences, or tripods, the latter being a very 
effective method, the same authority says :— - 
“The climbing shoots the young plants 
produce in summer should be allowed to 
grow straight up, so as to get as much 
growth as possible before the winter. In 
August select about two or four of these 
shoots and train them horizontally (the - 
lowest pair about 12 in.) from the ground, 
and the next pair about 12 in. above them. | 
Shorten the ends a few inches, and cut clean 
away the rest of the plant. Each year the 
same method should be adopted. The num- 
ber of branches may, however, be increased. 
Keep the most vigorous shoots the lowest 
NoveMEERi, 1902. 
down, and do not forget to change the old 
wood for the new every few years To ob- 
‘tain-autumn blooms on very vigorous varie- 
ties-it is necessary to train down and shorten 
the long-climbing shoots in February. For 
verandah and pillar Roses it will not be pos- 
sible to encourage much horizontal growth, 
‘but for trellises and fences growers should 
remember that their duty is to keep the 
bottom part covered; the Rose will look 
after the top.” 
SUMMER TREATMENT. 
After. the general pruning in July or 
August the old mulch can be removed, and 
a dressing of fresh manure given, the former 
being lightly forked without disturbing the 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.. 
New South Wales authority, previously 
quoted, says on this point—more particu- 
larly referring to the free-flowering varie- 
ties :—“ An attempt. to ‘keep Roses. con- 
tinually in bloom will very materially de- 
preciate the size of the blooms and the 
vitality of the plants. The growth of shoots 
and leaves strengthens a Rose, because the 
roots increase in like proportion, but the 
production of flowers and seed have the very 
opposite’ effect, and are most exhausting 
to-the plant. In cold climates the winter 
affords a complete rest for several months, 
which here they do not get. Our most 
valued, because most lasting, blooms are pro- 
duced in the late autumn and winter, and if 
our spring and autumn flowers are required 
ws 
Ay 
flower standing erect on strong stems; colour creamy white with sight 
Hybrid Tea, introduced by-Lambert and Reiter, 1891. weit 
tinge of lemon and-high-pointed centre. 
garden or exhibition; stands the 
factory as a dwarf or half-standard. 
roots, If extra fine blooms are desired, as 
_ soon as good growth commences, give the 
plants a little liquid manure -at ‘intervals of 
about a fortnight until the buds are well 
advanced. This is best supplied imme- 
diately after watering, as it then reaches the 
roots direct. 
.I have been asked what treatment to adopt 
during the summer months. After the 
October and November blooms there is no 
difficulty in keeping the plants flowering in 
the sunimer months by frequent waterings 
and cutting back, but seeing that it is labour 
in vain to attempt to grow good flowers 
during this period this is the time when your 
plants. should be allowed to rest, watering 
only sufficiently to keep them alive. <A 
A grand Rose either foy the 
hot weather well, and equally satis- 
5 
in perfection we have only the summer 
months in which to rest our plants,” 
MANURING. 
As I am indebted to the same writer for 
my experience as to manuring, I quote his 
remarks :— 
Natural Manures, Horse, Cow, &c.—. 
These manures will always rank as the best 
for Roses. For mulching they are invalu- 
able, and when dug into the Rose beds they 
increase -the supply of humus (vegetable 
matter) in the soil Humus is a most im- 
portant factor of the soil in a dry climate, 
because not only does it supply. food for 
the plants, but it greatly increases the 
water-holding power of the soil Horse 
