18 
fungus should be sprinkled with freshly 
slaked quicklime. This should be done 
after a fall of rain or whilst the dew is on the 
leaves. 
PS BOSESESES 
The Orchard in Germanv. 
(Translated from “Die Gatenwelt.”) 
[By TEvton.] 
S it the right thing to do to cut newly 
planted fruit trees or not ? 
My esteemed reader will have heard 
probably frequently, also have seen, and 
read too, that people prefer in some 
localities, not-to cut ‘back newly planted 
fruit-trees at/once, but to do this only 
one year after planting them. This 
would be perfectly right, if one would 
make reasonable use of the non-cutting. 
By cutting back we deprive the young 
tree of a part of its branches, and espec- 
ially those parts on which you will find 
the best and most important buds for the 
new formation of the young growth for the 
coming year.. The consequence is, that 
the leaf apparatus will be smaller, and 
also the leaves themselves. They grow 
from lower, weakly, buds, consequently 
that part of the tree which is the 
“greatest factor is reduced. But that is 
not all. With the cutting down of the 
branches the tree also loses the greater 
part ofthe so-called reserve sap, out of 
which the tree would be able to form the 
first labour apparatus, the leaves. There- 
fore it is only natural that newly planted 
- trees, especially those on heavy, cold soil, 
where a quick support of newly introduced 
nourishment, in consequence of slow 
root activity, is not possible, will be in the 
greatest want of those parts which are 
rich in reserve sap, in order to bring forth 
strong leaves, which latter would act 
greatly in favour of the roots. When 
the strong leaves appear they will con- 
duct the necessary building up material 
to the roots, which they themselves have 
acuired with the assistance of light and 
sunshine. .Further,:by many leaves the 
water and nouriskment supply above will 
be considerably increased, which will not 
be possible with small foliage ; therefore 
root and leaf extension goes on side by 
side. If the soil be loose and warm, such 
precaution will not be necessary, as in 
that a case the root formation will be 
more favourable. The sap stream from 
the roots to the leaves, for the nourishment 
of the latter will be stronger. But also 
in very loose soil where the ground soak- 
age water standard is high, would it be 
advisable not to cut back at once? In 
the most favoured localities, where soil 
circumstances, condition, and kind of tree 
will make it admissible, one may cut 
back at once. These are the conditions 
of planting to which I would draw 
attention, but I must attach even a few 
rem*rks to those. 
The greatest surprise was caused me 
by the actions of a fruit tree grower, and 
Iam sure that my reader will agree with 
me that they were passing strange. This 
gentleman had in his garden, planted in 
. right ? 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
NOVEMBER I, 1902, 
the spring, pear and apple trees, which, as 
usuil with him, would. not be cut back. - 
But hold on! Itsuddenly occured.to him 
to graft one half of the trees, and that he . 
. set to do at once, and not wait -till the 
- next spring. 
_ trees,-grafts would have to be ordered, he 
. might. just as well order those for the 
And why? As for other 
save _ the 
Which is now 
2 On one side of the road you find 
the trees not cut back, on the other side, 
trees even highly improved by “ trina- 
gulation.” i 
The grafting was deep set, so that not 
one eye remained ; the wounds, which, 
were caused in so doing, were ever so 
much deeper than those of trees cut back. 
Why did the man not cut back the trees? 
Because he knew that they would become 
cripples. And why did he graft them ? 
There only silence answers. Of course 
the grafts were completely crippled and 
have only growthof about 20 cm.in length. 
EO 66868 
newly planted trees, to 
postage in the next year. 
Vine Laterals Management. 
A little forethought in timing the laterals 
of vines so that there is a thin, but regular 
canopy over the bunches by the time the . 
berries'are stoned is always well repaid, for 
the most likely time for scorching of the 
berries is just when they are apparently 
stationary between the stoning and the second 
swelling. Old vines that have broken regu- 
larly for years will, as a rule, give far less 
trouble than younger canes, for these do not 
always break so regularly as is desirable, and 
there will in such cases be blank places in 
the roof unless means are taken to prevent 
it. Asa rule an unfruitful lateral can be ex- 
tended from the same or a neighbouring 
vine, and if not allowed to run too far and 
get thick, the increased leafage is an aid to 
the roots as wellas a means of protection to 
adjoining bunches. -But it does not do to 
wait till the Grapes are stoning ; now is the 
time for allowing a little freedom to the mid- 
season and late Vines, for the lateral growth 
is never so brisk just when the berries are 
stoning as it is previously and after, a great 
deal of the force of the Vines being appar- 
ently concentrated upon the stoning process. 
_Should anything have occured to make a 
blank space, such as the snapping out of a 
lateral on a strong Vine when it is too late to 
-make up the deficiency, it may be well in the 
interest of adjoining bunches to shade this 
spot. ° 
’ Regular attention to stopping and pinching 
as the season advances is of great aid in 
vinery management now. When the sub- 
laterals are allowed to ramble over and crowd 
their neighbours, they exclude light from the 
buds that are forming at the leaf bases, and 
not only this, but there comes a time when 
their wholesale removal is necessary, and 
this constitutes a severe check to the Vines 
and lets the sun in suddenly to where the 
leaves have not been exposed to its rays, and 
are not, therefore, hard enough to stand the 
light. Iam not by any means in favour of 
cut and dried practice in any department of 
gardening, but it is far better to stop 
regularly at the first leaf than to let the 
growth run in the slipshod manner some- 
times noted. - Again varieties differ in their 
likes, and as a general thing it will be found 
that black: varieties colour better under a 
rather thicker canopy of foliage than. do 
white ones. But the tying back. of the 
foliage from the latter still- practised in some 
places is a plan I never liked. - It ig’ bad for 
the leaves so treated, and often -results in 
burnt berries or a thick, cloudy, coloured 
bunch.—The Garden. ; 
VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
What we desire above all things in vege 
tables is quality and flavour. Their lives 
are brief, and many of them have to perfect 
a large system in a very short space’ of time. 
They require liberal feeding and attention. 
At this season the hoe must be used freely. 
It is important that no weeds remain. Where 
the soil has been well ridged in winter it 
should now be in a sweet, warm, and mellow 
condition for spring cropping. The soil 
should be arranged to conserve moisture and 
to throw off heat. Advantage should be 
taken of the next rain to sow seeds of 
vegetables for summer and autumn use. 
During this month onions, carrots, parsnips, 
silver beet, turnips, radishes, and spinach can 
all be planted. Late tomatoes are ready fot 
planting in a sheltered position. 
Sow seeds of cucumbers, melons, marrows, 
and other squashes in the vegetable or fruit 
garden as desired. Were late spring frosts are 
still anticipated afford protection at night. 
Celery trenches can now be prepared, as the 
seeds can be sown this month. The trenches 
should run north and south, in some warm 
and shady position, and should be made 1, ft. 
wide and 1 ft. deep. The distance between 
the trenches should be about 4 ft., and can 
be occupied by a crop of lettuces... Lettuces 
require a well-manured, not too heavy, soil, 
a deep, rich, sandy loam. Seed can be 
sown thinly by broadcasting or in drills, and 
covered with fine soil. Endives require 
much the same soil and situation. . , 
Sow radishes about once a fortnight for 
successional crops. Keep the soil moist and 
cool during dry, hot weather, to enable 
them to grow as quickly as possible. _ 
Asparagas should now be yielding a full 
crop. Whilst they are still young cut 
sparingly from each stool. Do not cut 
asparagus to the extent of weakening the 
plant. Allow a certain number of stems to 
develop and carry on the natural work of 
the plant. Asparagus beds cannot be hoed 
for fear of damage to young shoots. Apply 
a dressing of salt. This will rid the bed of 
weeds and act as a manure to the plants. 
Plant late potatoes now, and earth up those 
of the present crop that require it. Cauli- 
flowers can also be’ planted now for use in 
autumn. Plant out Globe artichokes which 
have been obtained from the base of old 
plants or raised from seed. Give them a 
deep, well-prepared soil and plenty of mois- 
ture at their roots in summer. : 
Give rhubarb, artichokes, and all strong 
growing vegetables liberal supplies of liquid 
manure. It promotes growth, gives leaves a 
richer colour, and makes the plants larger 
and more luxuriant, 
