OcToBER 1, i902. 
HE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 9 
to each. Split the branch down the centre, 
and two cuttings are ready for insertion, 
merely removing a few of the lowest leaves. 
The popular Genista or Cytisus should be 
treated as per these latter suggestions, 
As a generalrule, all leaves at the bottom 
of cuttings should be removed, as they 
prevent firm pressing of the soil, and 
generally soon decay, and are then a source 
of danger from that cause. 
Fuchsias, Geraniums,  Pelargoniums, 
Antirrhinums, Petunias, Verbenas, and such 
like plants, should be dealt with before the 
Spring is gone, 
ANNUALS, BIENNIALS, AND 
PERENNIALS. 
A number of half-hardy seeds may be 
sown this month for summer and _ early 
autumn flowering :— 
Amaranthus Lobelia 
Aster Nasturtium 
Balsam Petunia 
Celosia Portulaca 
Cosmea Pyrethrum 
Cosmiduum Rudbeckia 
Digitalis (Foxglove) Salpiglossis 
Gomphrena Tagetes (Marigold) 
Helianthus (Sunflower) Zinnia. 
For gene.al information upon the above, see 
the July number of “The Australian 
Gardener,” and for soil and method of 
planting see the September issue. 
> The Pansy. < 
Its Cultivation. 
~osceese 
[By R. BLEE.] 
T is very seldom that I meet a person 
who does not like the Pansy. It is just as 
easy to grow a good bloom as a bad one. 
Pansies are so easy to grow from seed _ that 
any person with a small plot of ground can 
have abundance of flowers for several months 
in the year. The most that is required is to 
give them plenty of water during dry weather 
“anda good mulch of manure, keeping the 
dead flowers picked off, and as they begin to 
get shabby cut back, when another flowering 
will result. Although I make it appear such 
an easy matter to grow Pansies—and I admit 
any schoolboy can grow his Pansy plant— 
there is a wide difference in growing them 
simply as flowers and cultivation fit for ex- 
hibition. ‘The standard rule of judging is 
not upheld with the Pansy as it should be 
at our Shows. 
POSITION. 
This should be in an open aspect, clear 
of trees, and for early flowering ground slop- 
ing north-east is best; for late flowering 
ground facing south with a breakwind to the 
north will do. But I find the Pansy comes 
on early north of Adelaide, as the subsoil is 
composed of limestone, inducing good drain- 
age, which makes the ground warmer. 
MAKING THE BEDS. 
These should be about four feet wide. 
January is the most suitable time for making 
them. 
° SOIL. 
Suppose there is not good soil to start 
with, take out to about.18 inches, not less 
than 15, loosen up the bottom, after which 
put in some ordinary rough loam and 
manure to the depth of 6 inches, filling the 
remaining foot with good loam, mixed with 
a third cow or horse manure of equal parts, 
to be well rotted; the whole to be. turned 
over several times before planting, without 
mixing the bottom six inches. 
PROPAGATION, 
There are two ways of doing this. 
by sowing seed, the other by cutting. The 
first should be put in about the middle of 
February, and fortnightly sowing up to the 
end of March, or even later. Shallow boxes, 
5 inches deep, are suitable, and I find a 
galvanized iron case answers well for this. 
Fill in with sandy loam up to 1 inch of top, 
the whole, when pressed down, well watered. 
Sow seeds half an inch or more apart. If 
they are sown too thickly they will most 
likely damp off. Cover over to the depth 
of an eighth of an inch, moisten, then put 
in shady place. Cover with glass slightly 
darkened, and in from ten to fourteen days 
the plantlets will appear. 
remove the glass. Do not keep them too 
wet. In about five weeks the plants will be 
ready to handle, when they may be pricked 
off three or four inches apart into shallow 
cases, using soil much heavier than for seeds, 
and keep from strong sunshine. For cutting, 
young off-shoots are most suitable when 
they are about two or three inches long, 
with the heel attached, which does not re- 
quire trimming, putting them into very 
sandy soil, pressing about bottom of cutting 
firmly. Keep in shady place. The best 
time to strike the cuttings is from March to © 
November. Do not let them want for 
water or flower too much if cuttings are 
wanted for March. 
PLANTING OUT. 
As a rule I do the first planting from the 
5th of May to the 25th. The rows should 
be about 9 inches apart each. way. . After 
‘planting give a good watering, and keep free 
from weeds. This can be done by con- 
stantly moving the soil in dry weather, which _ 
I consider is one of the most important 
parts in the cultivation of plants. It tends: 
to keep the ground cool in summer and 
warmer in winter, besides clearing the land 
of weeds. Too many shoots should not be 
allowed to grow on a plant; five is plenty. 
Keep the plants from flowering till within a 
fortnight of a Show taking place. 
WATERING, MANURING, AND SHADING. 
When the warm weather comes on a good 
watering twice a week is beneficial, with 
syringing overhead after sunset until the 
flower begins to expand which are intended 
for exhibition. Give about the same time a 
good mulch of rotted horse manure. Stimu- 
lants can also be applied in liquid form of 
cow manure, which is the safest to use. 
Make it like weak coffee, applying once or 
twice a week. Other manures can be used, 
One 
Then gradually _ 
other sorts. 
but I find this is the best. Shading is some- 
times wanted to make the flower come to 
time. This can be done by partially cover- 
ing the plant with pieces of cardboard so as 
to prevent the sun striking down on the 
flower. It is also a good plan to put some- 
thing under the plant to keep the flower 
clean. 
DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS: 
The Pansy is often attacked with mildew. 
The best remedy is dusting with sulphur 
before the dew is off the plants. Red spider 
and green fly get into the points of shoots 
and disfigure the buds Spraying with 
kerosine emulsion will kill them before the 
plant comes into flower. Sparrows do a lot 
of damage to the young buds and _ shoots by 
eating them. Place cotton across the beds. 
This will sometimes stop them. 
STAGING FOR EXHIBITION. 
A good exhibitor will always stage his 
flowers or plants to the best advantage, 
knowing that good setting up is a point with 
judges. I think they look better in their 
own foliage than in the white collars now 
used. The box should be inclined a little, - 
not flat. If collars are used, two inches for 
show, three inches for fancies, are plenty 
large enough. 
POINTS. 
I am inclined to believe some good will 
come if there were rules prepared for our 
Shows. It is often remarked, ‘‘What a 
- beautiful flower,” simply because it is large. 
This is a mistaken idea, as all points cover 
size in a Pansy, and in other florist flowers. 
I have heard many say that there is no 
difference between a show and a fancy 
Pansy, yet they will allowit in Pelargoniums, 
Dahlias, and others. ‘There are three classes 
in Pansies. Show Pansies are white ground, 
yellow ground, and selfs. The selfs com- 
prise dark, white, and yellow. These should 
have a dense blotch on the lower petals, 
either small or large, and just showing in the 
upper ones. It must be well defined, with- 
out runnings. In white or yellow ground 
the colour of belting must be the same as all 
the petals. This applies to the grouud 
colour also. Fancy Pansies have a blotch 
nearly covering the lower petals and two 
upper ones. ‘The selfs are same as the 
shows, except this difference. Then come 
white, yellow, and other bands on the lower 
petals, with blue, purple, ruby, plum, and 
various colours on the top petals, laced, and 
The markings should be dis- 
tinct.. The flowers should be of a leather- 
like texture, circular in form, quite smooth, 
eye well defined, blotches to be dense and 
running, colours clear and regular, of a large 
size, not less than an inch and a half for 
shows and two inches for fancies. George 
Glenny says :— 
t. It should be round, flat, and very 
smooth at edge, every notch or serrature’ or 
unevenness being a blemish. 
2. The petals should be thick and of a 
rich velvety texture. 
- 3. Whatever may be the colours, the 
ground colour of the three lower petals 
should be alike, whether it be white, yellow, 
straw-colour, plain, fringed, or blotched. 
There should not in these three petals be a 
shade of difference in principal colour. 
4. Whatever may be the character of the 
