AvGusT 1, r902, 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
GARDENING OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST: 
RON M 
Ge CENERS who have carefully studied 
3 the advice of our practical author’s 
€loquence in the July issue of Tur Aus- 
TRALIAN GARDENER have had a busy time 
under his inspiration during the month. 
Vheir gardens are looking clean and trim, 
teady for the bursting buds and bloom of 
Spring. But there is no idle time for a 
gardener, he or she. is the best occupied in- 
dividual, and should be the happiest crea- 
ture in existence. No occupation is so 
health giving, no recreation so little fatiguing, 
because the exercise can be taken in any 
quantity to suit the strength of the operator, 
and no thoughts more pure and ennobling 
than the association of flowers, 
As in July so it is in: August that the spade 
and the fork, the hoe and the rake must be 
kept always going, bright and shiny with the 
labour of keeping the paths clean-and the 
beds in good tilth, The same influences 
that are going strong in the earth, and the at- 
mospheric changes during the month of 
August that-are at work to make the young 
flowers grow, also give life and vigour to the 
weeds. A weedy garden is like a dirty face, 
and too often bespeaks the character of the 
owner. Neither is necessary nor becoming. 
As ugly smudges of dirt do not enhance the 
beauty and cheerfulness of a face, so in like 
fashion a garden, however full of beautiful 
flowers, can never be looked upon with satis- 
faction where weeds abound. Weeds grow 
apace in August, but are never very trouble- 
some when dealt with in their youth. The 
lines of a good old rhymster here:come un- 
bidden to the mind where he describes the 
sluggard, of whose habits it is remarked 
that— 
T passed by his garden and 
Saw the wild briar, 
The thorn and the thistle grow 
Broader and higher. ae 
We must presume, then, that the readers 
of THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER hayeall their 
plots neat and clean, their roses pruned, and 
new varieties planted. As the ‘season is 
somewhat late in some situations, new roses 
may be planted early in August, and with 
careful attention will throw blooms. later 
than those then under way with their 
young growth. Deciduous shrubs should 
have been trimmed into shape, but a few with 
their later buds not too far advanced will 
bear clipping even now. So also will the 
evergreen shrubs. ‘Those that have escaped 
notice may have the knife put into them for 
shaping, but little else must be done or the 
flowering shoots will be interfered with. 
ROSES. 
At a meeting of gardeners, Mr, A. H. 
Scarfe, who is acknowledged as one of the 
best authorities on Rose culture in South 
Australia, made some very practical remarks 
upon the planting and pruning of Roses 
which are appropriate just now. He said :— 
“Planting.—I consider the best time for 
planting is in the early autumn, before the 
ground gets cold. The plants get a good 
start before the frosty weather, and they will 
make vigorous growth and produce some 
good blooms in the spring. Failing this, 
planting may be successfully carried out in 
July or early in August, provided that water- 
ing is attended to in dry weather, and shelter 
given against sharp frosts, which are. some- 
times very disastrous in August. Care should 
be exercised in separating the roots, cutting 
back any that are too long to a length of 8 or 
“10 inches, and neatly trimming off all that 
have been broken or bruised in taking up. 
Plant about 3 or 4 inches below the surface, 
spreading out the roots in a downward direc- 
tion, radiating from the centre. Fill in some 
3 inches of the soil, and tread them down as 
firmly as possible. Fill in more soil, leaving 
the plants in a basin with a little mould of 
earth round the stem. Fill up all round with 
well-rotted manure, and give them a good 
watering through the mulch. Stake firmly 
to prevent them from being blown about, and 
the roots loosened. Avoid deep planting, 
and give your plants room. In:a_ proper 
Rose bed from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 four feet 
apart for the majority of Roses is ample. I 
have adopted the practice of having ‘half- 
standards (with about 18-inch stems) and 
dwarfs alternately in the rows, which gives a 
good effect. Watering in dry weather should 
receive regular attention. Pruning.— After 
several years experience, I have come to the 
conclusion that towards the end of July or 
early in August is the best time for this. 
In my modus operandi I have adhered as 
closely as possible to the principles laid down 
by the best authorities on Rose culture. 
Robinson, in the Lnglish Flower Garden, 
says :—‘On most Rose shoots there area num- 
ber of blooms in embyro, and were all these 
allowed to remain they would be necessarily 
small flowers. Pruning, so far as it reduces 
the number of flowers, concentrates the force - 
of the plant, gives increased vigour, and thus 
heightens the colour and enlarges the size of 
the Rose. Pruning for form and vigour is ab- 
solutely necessary. Plants must be kept in 
form by the knife. By cutting out exhausted 
branches we cause young and vigorous ones 
to spring up from the base, and thus force the 
plant to renew its youth. As the object of 
pruning is to preserve the plant in full health 
and vigour, this is best secured by the removal 
of all dead, weakly, and unsightly -growth. 
As soon as the branch fails it should be 
pruned out, and all small twiggy shoots in 
the centre of the plant cut away. 
ANNUALS, BIENNIALS, AND 
PERENNIALS. 
During this month a number of young 
hardy, and half-hardy plants may be trans- 
planted :— 
Aster Delphinium ‘Polyanthus 
Acroclinium Daisy Petunia 
Aquilegia Digitalis Primrose: . 
Amaranthus Eschscoltzia Rhodanthe 
Balsam Linum Salpiglossis 
Cockscomb Marigold Wallflower 
Campanula Myosotis Zinnia: 
Cosmos Portulaca 
The hardy annuals planted out in July that 
haye weathered the cold and frost and snails, 
“passed for variety of colourings. 
In a garden. 
killed Polonius, her father. 
5 
are now setting into vigorous growth, and in 
a few weeks will be showing signs. of -buds. 
A number mentioned in our last issue may 
still be planted out, and gaps filled up. ~ 
ASTER (a star).—These beautiful little 
plants are most profuse bloomers, and for 
clumps in the border cannot be easily sur- 
Both the 
dwarf and the tall varieties are useful for the 
garden, and in decorative boxes for indoors 
they are very ornamental. The prevailing 
‘colours are lilacs and blues, while others are 
pale red, yellow, and white. 
ACROCLINIUM, or Helipterum (from 
Helios, the sun, and petron, a wing).—The 
flowers of this plant are most valuable for 
decorative purposes when cut just before they 
are full blown. They are known as everlast- 
ings, and keep their colour and freshness of 
appearance for a great length of time. The 
colours can be had in pink, and rose, and 
white. A cluster of pink and white ever- 
lastings are amongst the prettiest attractions 
They do best in a sandy soil. 
AQUILEGIA (Columbine), from aquila, 
an eagle —The name is derived from the 
form of the petals. The Columbine is one 
of the oldest of English. flowers that poets 
introduce into their musings. England is 
one of its native habitats, and when in the 
woods before it was brought under cultivation 
‘was regarded as having no particular virtue, 
property, or use. It was for this reason that 
Shakspeare prompted Ophelia to’ present 
Columbines to the King (in “‘Hamlet”) while 
she was under the impression that he had 
In those days 
flowers had much more - significance than 
now. Columbines have been cultivated to 
great perfection and beauty. The prime 
colours and the tints are exceedingly pretty, 
and add rare elegance to a mixed garden of 
flowers. The Scarlet Canadensis, introduced 
from North America, is a rich bloom, and 
the Glandulosa, blue, tipped with white is 
very effective. 
- AMARANTHUS (from a, not, and 
Maraino, to waste away).—The Amaranth 
is grown as a foliage plant in the open beds, 
the flowers being mostly insignificant, although 
some have plume-like handsome blooms. 
As late summer plants the gorgeousness of 
the foliage cannot be surpassed by any flower. 
A group here and there on the dark green of 
a lawn is superb. The tricolour varieties are 
always effective, but the carmine leaves of 
Henderi are rich to brilliance when the 
majority of flowers are drooping with heat. 
BALSAM, or Impatiens.—The name is 
derived from a peculiarity in the elastic 
nature of the seedpod, which discharges the 
seed when ripe, or when touched. Balsams 
aré grown in the open, but are also favoured 
as pot plants, because of their rich perfume. 
A camellia strain is much sought after, some 
_ of the blooms being very fine. ‘Their bed 
does not require any special care or situation, 
so ‘long as it is not too highly exposed, but 
they are great drinkers. 
COCKSCOMB (Celosia, from kelos, burnt, 
the reference being to the burnt-like appea- 
rance of the flowers of some species),— 
Cockcombs are highly decorative plants, and 
with care and judgment in picking out the 
best of the blooms just when they are’ be- 
ginning to form and weeding out the in- 
