JANUARY I, 1903. 
‘THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER, 
Carden Operations for January. 
mSCES CESSES SS 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
There should be no lack of color in the 
garden in January. We are now being 
rewarded for the year’s labors by a wealth 
and profusion of bloom. We have but to 
maintain it through the hot trying months 
to follow. The operation of watering has 
become tedious and monotonous in the ex- 
treme, but if anything can afford us con- 
‘solation it is the magical effect it has on 
drooping flower and flagging leaf after blis- 
tering sun and withering wind have done 
their worst. There is often a lull towards 
evening, and in the softening light that 
follows the sunset, in the moisture laden 
atmosphere we have credited, whén the 
cooling spray of the hose has called back 
the color to the plants with an additional 
intensity, and caused a perfumed incense 
to ascend from every flower, we are per- 
mitted to enjoy those rare moments of 
peaceful enjoyment. Moments worth wait- 
ing, worth striving for. Dahlias and 
cannas are a host in themselves for decora- 
tive purposes, but the luxuriant growth 
and wealth of blooms we desire above all 
things in them can only be encouraged and 
maintained by liberal supplies of water. 
In the case of the former, where the soil 
hag not been well enriched frequent sup- 
plies of liquid manure should be given. 
Dahlias must be secured to stout stakes, 
one to each stem; their effect is spoilt at 
once if they are allowed to flop. With 
smaller annuals it is better to rely on close 
planting, by which they support each 
other, and due attention to strengthening 
growth by pinching than to have the gar- 
den bristling with stakes. 
now be taken of verbenas, phloxes, antirr- 
hiniums, pentstemons, lantanas, pelargo- 
niums, petunias, and the side shoots of 
pansies and hollyhocks. . Choose nice short- 
pointed wood for cuttings. ‘Carnations and — 
verbenas cah be layered now to increase 
them. Seeds of antirrhiniums and delphi- 
niums can be sown, this month for planting 
out in the autumn, and also of Brompton 
and intermediate stocks; the two last- 
named in the open border, where they are 
toremain. If seed vessels are to be saved 
they must be carefully watched as the 
ripening season approaches, but if a pro- 
longed period of bloom is desired the 
plants should be relieved of all dead 
flowers. ( 
The planting of bulbs that have been 
lifted may be begun within the next few 
weeks. Many varieties are positively in- 
jured by remaining too long out of the 
ound. 
If mulching has been neglected the 
flower beds must be constantly hoed and 
weeded. Lawn should be frequently mown, 
so that the growth will be kept close and 
fins and even. Give then manure occa- 
Cuttings can. 
sionally to stimulate the growth. An oc- 
casional sprinkling of wood ashes is said 
to be very beneficial. 
Allow no gaps to remain in the borders, 
as they seriously mar the general effect. 
Substitute failures with plants kept in re- 
serve for the purpose, and fill in spaces 
and bare patches with annuals of free and 
rapid growth. Make note of any errors in 
grouping, or, on the other hand, of any 
striking and successful effects that may 
have been accidentally obtained. Closely 
observe the relative heights, the spread, 
habit, and character of all plants; also 
their colors, any similarity there may be 
shade or form, their period of bloom and its 
duration to aid in future grouping and 
arranging. . 
Perennial phloxes are among the most 
decorative things in the border. They are 
gross feeders, and amply repay a rich soil 
and abundant supplies of water. The best 
blooms are produced on two and three 
year old plants; after the fourth year it 
is advisable to make a fresh planting. 
Stronger and better plants result from 
cuttings than from divisions. Pinching 
and cutting back the shoots will induce 
them to bloom well on into the autumn. 
Roses can be budded during this and 
next month. Take buds from those it is 
desired to propagate, and insert in a seed- 
ling briar stock. In some cases, with Mare- 
chal Niel for instance, the Banksia can be 
employed. Tea roses judiciously pruned at 
this season will be encouraged to produce 
better blooms in the autumn. Much of this 
pruning can be done when the flowers are 
cut if care is taken always to cut back to a 
strong. outside bud. Many plants can be 
induced to bloom continually if they are 
occasionally sheaved over. It is generally 
easy to see when this method will answer 
by the fresh growth that is always found 
springing up from the base. Coreopsis 
and antirrhiniums can be thus dealt with. 
Cockscombs, with their rich and varied 
tones and unique character of growth, are 
admirable little border plants. Plenty of 
sun and water are their principal require- 
ments. 
_ Nicotiana tabacum is a very desirable 
thing on account of its handsome tropical 
looking foliage and the ornamental flower 
it bears. It considerably adds to the effect 
ofa border, and is easily raised from seed. 
FSBO SOSOCOSCE SOS 
Answers to Correspondents. 
reSeSa 
“Wat's in A Namr?’—Botanical terms 
are exceedingly appropriate, but rather 
trying to non-classical readers. Thus, 
flowers are classed as Anemophilous and — 
Zooidiophilous, according as they are pol- 
linated by the wind or by animals. If this 
is done by birds the flowers are termed 
Ornithophilous, if by snails Malacophilons, 
if by insects Entomophilous. Ina strik- 
ingly alliterative sentence the ‘Encyclo 
pedia Britannica” states that “Anemo 
philous flowers are characterised by the 
prodigal production of powdery: pollen.” 
“Hosr-tn-Hosz.’—The. term applied by 
gardeners when within the corella’one or 
more others are produced. A Gémpanula 
now before the writer has six corollas thus 
superimposed, quite filling up the “tube. 
The native Epacris impressa ‘is sometimes 
found with a double corolla. Among some 
fine specimens of Campanula, 2} in. long, 
one was formed of two corollas sidé ‘by side, 
with double stigma and “‘liose-in-hose” as 
well. Another specimen. had the outside 
corolla spreading, so that the flower as 
sumed a “cup and saucer’ form. The Cam- 
panula is also worth examining to see how 
the honey is protected. The filaments of 
the anthers are flattened at their bases, 
. and meet to form a dome over the nectary. 
This keeps out ants, but bees can insert 
their proboscis between the segments. 
“GAILLARDIA.”’—The tri-fid ray petals 
often become tubular, giving quite a dif- 
ferent character to the flower. 
“Srupent.”—The “tepals” are the indivi- 
dual segments of the perianth. They, there- 
fore, include both sepals and petals. 
Where these are similar, as in Lilies, Iris, 
&c., it is a convenient word to use. 
“Crown or Tuorns.”—The plant to 
which this name is usually ascribed is the 
Paliurus aculeatus. It belongs to the same 
order as Buckthorn. It is known in 
France as the Porte chapeau, because the 
fruit resembles a head with a broad brim- 
med hat. The name of “Christ’s Thorn” 
is also applied to the Zizyphus Spina- 
Christi belonging to the same order, the 
branches of which are flexible and readily 
plaited. 
“CucumBrr.”—We have never heard of 
growing cucumbers “Indian  ‘Tepee 
fashion.” Perhaps our readers mav 
give some information upon the method. 
A. “Tapee” is a North American tent, but 
we know of no connection between the two 
ae as concerning the growing of cucum- 
ers. 
“A. C. Dossre.”—The small dark brown 
beetle that is so destructive to trees and 
plant life is probably one of the weevil 
genus Curculio, belonging to which there 
are a number of species, all more or less 
destructive to vegetation in the manner 
described. The two most common to 
your description are Curculio pomorum 
and C. pyri. The most successful plan of 
destruction is to place a sheet under the 
tree at night and throw a strong lantern 
light into the branches. The beetles wil] 
fall as soon as the light touches them, and 
they may be gathered up in the sheet and 
destroyed. Send a specimen, and we will 
give you all information concerning it. 
