- APRIL I, 1903. | 
HE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
fi 
DAHLIAS. 
See 
ZN 
= 
The Dahlia in America. 
[Read by L. A. Martin before the Tarry- 
town, N.Y., Horticultural Society.] 
(From “The Florists’ Exchange.”’) 
[Planting operations for Australia begin 
during September.—Ep. | 
This interesting and useful plant for 
the decoration of our gardens in middle 
summer and fall was first discovered in its 
wild state in Mexico, and introduced into 
Europe about 1789, and although cultivat- 
ed in several different parts of the country 
by amateurs and gardeners, it failed to be- 
come well-established before 1814, when 
the first semi-double and double varieties 
were obtained, and a new impetus given 
to the cultivation of the plant. 
The changes and imvroyvements obtain- 
ed and the popular attention givem to the 
culture of the Dahlia are really wonder- 
ful; principally are these advances notice- 
able in the case of the types of new Cactus 
and decorative Dahlias. But, however 
popular those new types may become, I 
hope they will not supplant our old ball- 
shaped varieties, with their beautiful 
colors and symmetrical forms. 
What other plants can give us such a 
diversity of color of every shade and tint? 
Its ease of cultivation, and its adaptability 
to several conditions, make it, indeed, a 
most useful subject, either for the purposes 
of cut flowers, bedding, bordering, mixing 
among shrubs, potted plants with the 
dwarfer varieties, or as a single specimen 
on. the lawn. 
CLASSIFICATION. 
The varieties of Dahlia have been 
divided into many different sections and 
classes. The following will be most gene- 
rally found mentioned in catalogues: 
Show: All varieties producing large, 
compact, well-formed flowers, usually of a 
solid color, but sometimes shaded with 
darker or lighter tints. . 
., Fancy: All variegated varieties. 
- Cactus: Of recent introduction, and 
the class most thought of to-day. The 
flowers are perfectly double, with long 
narrow petals, and the plants are very 
profuse bloomers. The variety Juarezil, 
an intense scarlet, was the -first of. this 
type to be introduced in 1872, and conse- 
quently is the parent of this extensive 
class. 
Decorative: An intermediate form cf 
the above, and sometimes classed with it. 
The plants are of strong growth, and pro- 
duce large flowers with flat and broader 
petals. One of the best for general deco- 
ration. 
Pompon: One of the most useful for 
bedding; also for flowering in pots; of 
dwarf and compact growth. 
Single: Very useful for bouquets; 
these are among the easiest to grow. 
PROPAGATION. 
Propagation is effected by seed, cuttings, 
divisions of the roots and sometimes graft- 
ing. The seeds are sown in flats, in the 
greenhouse, in March. When the seedlings 
are large enough to handle, transplant 
them into 2}-in. pots, and set outside after 
danger from frost is past. If well watered 
until thoroughly established the plants 
will flower the first season. 
In the case of cuttings, the old roots are 
placed ina bench, in a greenhouse, the 
roots being only covered (not the crown), 
with about 2in. of soil. Syringe when 
necessary to keep them partly moist. As 
soon as the young shoots are about 3 in. 
in length, tear off, or cut with a knife just 
below the joint, and place the severed por- 
tion in a cutting bench. With proper treat- 
ment they will root in about ten or twenty 
days, when they can be transferred into’ 
3-in. pots, and shaded for afew days. <As 
goon, as the roots have taken a good hold, 
remove the plants to a cold frame. Keep 
as cold as possible to retard their growth 
without impairing their vitality, in order 
to get strong and thrifty plants. 
When one has enough cuttings of a 
variety, divide the old roots to as many 
eyes as there are on the crown; pot to 
size required and again place in a cold 
frame. 
If before planting time the plants are 
growing too fast to suit your purposes, re- 
tard them, by removing them to the north 
side of a building. 
The commercial florist usually starts his 
cuttings about January, as he needs tho 
plants for his sales, but for amateurs and 
private gardeners March is early enough. 
Our first batch was putin March 7. We 
kept propagating with some new varieties 
until the end of April. 
Division of the old roots is the most easy 
and satisfactory way for the amateur. The 
old roots placed in a hot bed, or green. 
house, and kept a little moist, soon start 
to grow. As soon as they show their growth 
divide to as many eyes as there are on the 
crown, pot and place in a cold frame, or 
plant out in their permanent quarters after 
danger from frost is past. The roots can 
also be taken from their winter quarters 
and planted out-of-doors; but always 
divide the old clump. They will not 
make such large plants, but the flower will 
be better and the plants will bloom more 
profusely. Pee ae ed 
I believe in growing all Dahlias to single 
stems; therefore, all the shoots but one 
should be removed as soon as they appear. 
LOCATION. 
While the Dahlia is a very easy plant 
to grow, it will respond readily to some 
special attention. The most suitable 
location for the plants is where they will 
get plenty of sunlight, air, and moisture, 
as they need those elements to grow to per- 
fection. 
Before planting time some well decom- 
posed manure is forked in, and well mixed 
with the soil; but if the manure is not weil 
decomposed use instead some kind of ferti- 
liser rich in ammonia, and if in previous 
years the soil has been well supplied with 
plant food, I would not use any kind of 
manure at all, as a too rich soil will induce 
a soft growth and poor flowers. 
PLANTING. 
So much has been said of late about the 
best time to plant Dahlias that it is im- 
possible te give any special rule to follow 
on this important subject that will suib 
every one. My advice to those desiring 
no flowers, or only a few partly formed 
and insignificant ones, and extremely large 
plants, is to plant early. Butif you are a 
lover of this plant, and wish to enjoy it in 
its full glory, plant late, and you will be 
rewarded with compact plants covered 
with beautifully shaped flowers. 
At Malvern, our first plants were set 
out June 9, with our first batch of cuttings 
and also divided plants; and we kept on 
planting every week until July 11, when 
our last batch of cuttings, 25 plants, and 
newly received varieties were set out. At 
this writing the only difference seen is that 
our last planted ones are shorter, but have 
stronger stems and. larger flowers. 
The plants were set out in the kitchen 
- garden in rows 4 ft. apart and 34 ft. be- 
tween the plants. A strong stake was 
placed to each plant at once, and a good 
watering given to firm the soil around the 
roots. 
In a sheltered situation, if the plants are 
grown to a single stem, and the main shoot 
pinched to a certain height, no staking 
would be necessary; but if the location is 
exposed to strong winds, it is better to 
stake the plants. 
We set the roots deep enough in the 
ground, so that the crown will be about 
3 in. below the surface, and draw a little 
of the soil around the plants at each hoe- 
ing. This I like better than covering 
around the plants with litter; but if the 
soil should be very light and does not re- 
tain moisture properly, mulching is very 
beneficial. 
In planting Dahlias in beds the appre- 
ximate height of each variety will have to 
be ascertained before planting; placing 
the tallest growers in the centre, and 
finishing with the dwarfer varieties. 
Deep and frequent stirring of the soil 
during early growth is indispensable to 
success; but as soon as blooming com 
mences, simply stir the soil with a rake, 
as to go too deep at this period is apt to 
destroy the young feeding roots near the 
surface, that are needed for the develop- 
ment of the flowers. 
If the soil has been prepared before 
planting, as advised, no fertiliser should be 
given until the plants commence to bloom ; 
then scatter a little bonemeal around the 
plants, and work it into the soil. The 
rains will work the fertiliser down to tha 
roots, and this will induce large and well- 
formed flowers. 
The past season has been favorable for 
the growth of Dahlias, as we have had an 
unusually cool summer and plenty of rain; 
in fact, tco much, as the plants have made 
a soft growth, and most of the early buds 
