OPERATIONS FOR JUNE, 
Ali planting should be completed as soon 
as possible. Pruning is the next impor- 
tant matter calling for attention, and 
should be commenced forthwith. This 
operation cannot be performed haphazard, 
requiring, as it does, both theoretical and. 
practical knowledge. Many instructive 
works on pruning are obtainable, those by 
local authorities being the most reliable 
for this country. With this information 
and a careful study and observation of the 
trees from day to day, from season to sea- 
son, and from year to year, the grower 
should in time become skilful in this par- 
ticular branch. The subject is so compre- 
hensive, embracing all the intricate prin- 
ciples of plant physiology and plant 
growth, that it lies quite beyond the scope 
of a short article, and we can only confine 
ourselves to a few general remarks. 
Let it be well understood that we sprune 
to regulate the growth, to ensure the re- 
gular production of fruit, to keep up the 
vigor and vitality of the tree necessary to 
bring the fruit to perfection and to concen- 
trate and direct the sap into a few impor- 
tant channels. 
Deciduous trees, that have been well 
trained from their infancy, and have been . 
systematically summer-pruned, call for 
comparatively little winter -pruning. 
Speaking generally, it is reduced to the re- 
gulating of spur growth, shortening or 
spurring shoots, removing any superfluous 
branches, and all dead wood. <A well 
trained tree should be supplied with a suf- 
ficiency of closely set natural spurs borne 
on its lower portions. 
In the case of neglected trees the work 
is very much heavier. They usually carry 
far too much wood. The centre of a tree 
must always be kept open to allow the light 
and air free play throughout its entire 
space. The branches should not stand 
closer than 1 ft. of each other at the very 
least; a distance of 2 ft. would be dis- 
tinctly better. On such trees the fruit is 
only borne towards the extremities, or, 
in other words, only on those portions 
where the light has had power to penetrate 
and to quicken the buds. The dense 
growth choking the centre has caused all 
else to become barren. The most important 
thing then is to reduce the number of 
branches very considerably, and to encou- 
rage shoots and spurs to form nearer the 
base. To do this we must endeavor to 
arrest the sap in its ascent by checking the 
head growth and keeping the leading 
shoots light, and cause it to rest about and 
flush the lower limbs. ~ Horizontal 
dependent growth is to be preferred and 
encouraged in a strong tree for the same 
reason, that the sap moving through 
m more slowly causes them to become 
and © 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER, 
JUNE 1, 1904. 
fruitful. 
velops. 
Every. species of fruit tree, not to say 
every variety, calls for a different method 
of pruning, though the general principles 
are the same. The pear, apple, apricot, 
cherry, and plum have points in common, 
but the peach stands out distinct, in that 
it is not spur-pruned. It bears its fruit 
on the wood of the previous year; that is, 
last season’s shoots and natuyral'spurs. Its 
shoots, therefore, are not shortened beyond 
a little tipping, when the variety is known 
not to bear its fruit near the points. Our 
object in pruning the peach is to promote 
and provide for a succession of fruiting 
shoots, removing altogether those which 
have already functioned that others may 
spring in their place. These shoots are 
readily produced with proper management. 
The other classes named above are spur- 
pruned ; that is to say, suitable shoots are 
retained, and are converted into spurs by 
being shortened. It is never advisable to 
leave a long artificial spur, though greater 
length can be left at the base of the tree 
than towards the top, where it would tend 
to a woody growth. 
A short, compact, natural spur springing 
from a strong source is always the pruner’s 
desideratum, and their promotion, forma- 
tion, and management is his chief concern 
in a well-ordered, shapely tree. Subjects 
like some varieties of the plum, that have 
a tendency to form a superfluous number 
of upright branches with the inevitable 
result, a thicket of growth at the top, re- 
quire a good deal of spacing and regulating 
of the shoots and branches. This, by-the- 
way, 1s summer work in the first instance, 
when we can remove with the finger and 
thumb what must be sawn and cut away 
with far more labor in subsequent winters. 
According to the strength or weakness of a 
tree must horizontal or perpendicular 
growth be encouraged. Only in the case 
Wherever sap rests growth de- 
of weakly trees, and where a certain de-. 
sign requires it, is the latter desirable. 
Cherry trees need little hard pruning, and 
they form of their own accord a sufficiency 
of fruit spurs. These spurs last for years, 
and go on extending and ramifying, so . 
they must be pruned when they become 
too complicated, always taking care only 
to remove the exhausted growth, and to 
leave the fresh young growth that is to 
bear the fruit, preferably that situated 
nearest the source of the spur. This free 
development of spur and shoot in the 
cherry necessitates a certain amount of 
judicious thinning and regulating, and it is 
of the utmost importance with this class as 
with other fruit trees that all dead and 
useless matter be removed. Apricot trees 
require a spacing of their branches and 
leading shoots. They bear their fruit on 
natural and artificial spurs and occasional 
shoots on last year’s wood. The spurs 
must be regulated, and a sufficiency of well- 
placed shoots converted into spurs. 
Pears and apples are spur-pruned only, 
though their individual treatment neces- 
sarily differs slightly. This spur growth 
must also be regulated as it becomes ex- 
_ aggerated. Spacing the branches if crowd- 
ed and thinning the shoots almost goes 
without saying. Some varieties of the plum — 
having weaker wood than other trees, have 
to be favored with a more perpendicular 
growth to render it profitable. It has 
natural and artificial spurs only. 
In all trees symmetry is an important 
point, both for appearance and economy’s 
sake. A well-proportioned tree, in which 
all the growth is evenly disposed, alone 
will give the best results. 
Vegetable Garden. 
Digging, trenching, and enriching plots 
for vegetables must be proceeded with 
whenever the weather renders it practic- 
able. Rhubarb and asparagus beds, 
among others, should be in active prepara- 
tion, that they may be in a warm and mel- 
low condition for planting. Both these 
vegetables require very deep rich soils. 
Existing beds of asparagus may have their 
annual top-dressing of rotted manure with 
a sprinkling of salt or seaweed combined. 
In preparing beds for vegetables their 
capacity for manure must be kept in mind. 
Peas, beans, onions, spinach, cabbage, 
cauliflower, lettuce, and potatoes are bene- 
fited by heavy dressings of decomposed 
-manure, while it would do harm to roat 
crops. The latter then are better in a 
soil from which all the stimulating pro- 
perties have been taken. Sowings can be 
made of broad beans, carrots, leeks, early 
peas, parsnips, cauliflower,. Brussels 
sprouts, &c., and in a warm sunny border 
radishes, lettuces, and other salads. Pre- 
pared beds awaiting crops should be kept 
free from weeds and roughly dug. _Ad- 
vancing crops should be thinned and the 
beds hoed. 
= GOSS 26 68> 
WHITE FOXGLOVES, 
A. border I have lately seen was made 
beautiful by masses of white Foxgloves, 
among which rose dark and light biue 
Delphiniums. This is one of those com- 
binations of quite hardy plants that make 
lovely features so easily in a garden. 
To raise Foxgloves from seed is the besb 
plan where numbers are needed, and L sow 
mine in huge flower pots in a cold frame, 
leaving them to grow quite a good size be- 
fore I plant them out where they are to 
grow permanently. A summer sowing re- 
sults in nice plants to put out in Septem- 
ber or October. 
Foxgloves succeed either in sunshine or 
shade. They are pretty crowning banks, 
. or springing out of the base of rockeries. 
A. clump of white ones against a wall that 
is covered by a red Rose is a satisfying 
spectacle. They are charming in shrub- 
bery borders, or as centre-pieces for lawn 
flower beds. —“ The Gardener.” | 
M. HawrtHorng, 
