May i, 1905 
localities, but, generally speaking, it is 
safer to lift them when the foliage withers 
Helianthus—The perennial sunflowers 
make a brave show in the autumn with 
their bright yellow blossoms. H. multi 
florus and its double variety Soleil d’Or are 
the most generally cultivated forms, but 
there are other species and varieties that. 
are of greater merit. Amongst these may 
be named H. rigidus Miss Mellish, H. let- 
florus, and the new H. G. Moon. Other 
good species are H. giganteus and H. or- 
gyalis, both of which attain a height of 
10 ft. 
Lobelia cardinalis—This and L. fulgens, 
with their glowing crimson flower-spikes, 
are without peers for brilliant effect. In 
damp, holding soil they take no harm dur- 
ing the winter in the open bed, even if 
exposed to 20 deg. of frost. In light soil 
they often fail, the crowns rotting inj the 
winter. Where this, is found to be the case, 
the clumps should be lifted when the flower- 
stems wither, packed closely together in 
boxes, with a little dry earth or cocoanut 
fibre shaken in between them, and kept in 
frames until the spring, when they may be 
divided, started into growth, and replant- 
ed. These lobelias are easily raised from 
seed, and, where they are found to be liable 
to winter failure, seedlings should be rais- 
ed annually from home-saved seed. 
Kniphofia or Tritoma—The popular 
Red-hot-Poker or Torch Lily, with its glow- 
ing spires of bloom, is am especially effec- 
tive autumn subject. Of late: years nume- 
rous new species have been introduced to 
supplement the old K. Uvaria, many of 
which are desirable. Kniphofias require 
a warm situation and porous soil, which 
does not retain moisture in the winter. 
Physalis (Winter Cherry)—P. Alke- 
kengi is a very old garden plant, having 
been introduced over 300 years ago. Its 
crange-scarlet bladders which enclose the 
fruit are very decorative in the garden, 
and still more so for winter indoor decora- 
tion. It is entirely surpassed, however, 
by P. Franchetti, whose great balloons are 
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MT. VICTORIA, N.S.W., 
has imported per steamship Fifeshire 
eEN= GW ii. 
ELADIOLY 
embracing 
2 ie 
200 Finest Kuropean Varieties, 
for 
Autumn Flowering. 
what resembles-in manner of growth, 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
sometimes 8 in. in circumference. Both are 
perfectly hardy and increase rapidly. 
Pyrethrum uligincsum.—Many who have 
but slight knowledge of flowers class this 
with the Michaelmas daisies, which it some- 
Its 
large, white, starry flowers, with their nar- 
row rays, are very graceful, and a fine plant 
in full bloom presents a charming picture. 
Senecio pulcher.—This plant grows to a 
height of 3 ft., and bears large flowers cf a 
deep magenta tint. Those who dislike that 
color should eliminate it from their list of 
desirable autumn flowers. The three fol- 
lowing plants may be termed winter flow- 
erers : 
Schizostylis coccinea is a small bulbous 
plant, growing 18 in. in height, and bear- 
ing scapes of bright crimson flowers. It 
blooms from April to June if the weather 
be mild, and is mogt useful for indoor‘ deco- 
ration. 
Ivig stylosa—This lovely Iris and its 
white variety bear their blossoms from the 
end of October until April. Large plants 
produce a continuous supply of flowers, — 
which should be picked in the bud stage 
and expanded indoors, where they are al- 
ways welcome, being deliciously fragrant 
as well as very beautiful. The plant does 
best on a dry bank ot light soil, and in cold 
districts should be planted against a wall 
in porous composti with rapid drainage, 
and should be sheltered from cutting 
winds. 
Christmas Roses—These chaste flowers, 
coming, as they do, in mid-winter, are of 
inestimable value. The first to flower is 
the giant Helleborus altifolius or maximus, 
which commences to bloom in May. Other 
grand varieties are H. juvernis (St. Brigid’s 
Christmas Rese), H. major, Bath variety, 
the Riverston variety, the Brockhur'st 
varicty, Mme. Fourcade, and the Manchas- 
ter and Scotch varieties of H. angustifolius. 
Christmas Roses require deep, retentive, 
well-manured soil and a partially shaded 
pesition, where they are not burnt up by 
the summer sun. In dry weather they 
should receive copious supplies of water. 
St W LP. 
The Oxcheutd. 
OPERATIONS FOR MAY. 
ee a re 
(By W. J. Auten.) 
Where it is intended to plant deciduous 
trees, either as refills or in laying out a 
new orchard, no time should be lost in 
getting the land into: fit condition to re- 
ceive them. If the trees are not, already 
ordered, this should be done without fur- 
ther delay, and they should be planted 
immediately upon delivery. ~ 
In the average soil, the mosti suitable 
distance apart for planting apples, cit- 
rus fruits, peaclies, nectarines, plums, 
pears, and apricots is 24 ft.; in very rich 
13 
soil, however, this distance may with ad- 
vantage be extended to 30 feet. A few 
varieties of plums and pears would, per- 
haps, do welll if planted 20 feet apart; 
but, generally speaking, 1 favour giving 
trees a good space of ground to feed in, 
as, owing to the recurrence of droughts, 
the trees, if they are of any age and 
planted close together, are bound to suf- 
fer more than those which have been al- 
lowed a liberal space of land from which 
to draw nourishment. : 
The following table shows the number 
of trees or vines to the acre at the dis- 
tances apart given, viz. :— 
Distance 
Distance 
Apart. No. Apart No. 
4x4 2,722 15 x 15 193 
5x) 1,742 16 x 16 170: 
6x 6 1,210 17 x 17 150 
(xe 888 18 x 18 134 
8 x 8 680. US) oe 1G) 120 
9x9 537 20 x 20 108 
10 x 10 435 25 x 25 69 
Hut se aul 360 30 x 30 48 
12 x 12 302 30 x 35 35 
13 x 13 257 40 x 40. 27 
14 x 14 222 
Many of our nurserymen fumigate the 
trees before sending them from the nur- 
Scry, as an extra precaution against any 
unforeseen pest which might have settled 
on them by chance. I am pleased to say 
that we have nurserymen carrying stocks. 
free from diseases, and it is from such 
nurserymen that growers should endeavy- 
our to procure their trees, as the average 
orchardist has quite enough to put up 
with, without the further imposition upon 
him of an army of pests introduced with 
his nursery stock. 
In ever'y case, ‘the yearling trees is the 
best’ to buy, yet) many there are who 
away with the mistaken idea that the lar- 
best must be the best. <A well-grown 
yearling tree is always preferable. 
Pruning may be started towards the 
end of the month; but if the orchardist 
can, put it off until next month’ it would 
be as well, as there is no advantage to be 
derived from pruning too early. 
Citrus fruits, where at all subject to . 
frosts, should be properly protected before 
they have suffered damage from these 
causes. This may be done by binding 
loosely about the young tree a sheaf of 
maize or sorghum stalks, tea-tree bush, or 
anything thaiti will afford the tender foli- 
age fair shelter. 
Many of our fruitgrowers are now using 
lime in varying quantities from ai half to 
one ton per acre, and have derived very 
gratifying results from its use. Lime has 
the effect of changing the physical proper- 
tics of a clay soil, making it more friable 
and easily cultivated, and putting it into 
a condition so that water may pass more 
freely through it. This will make it less 
susceptible to extremes of dry or wet 
weaither, and make it a good home for the 
order the older or larger trees, being led ° 
rcots of the plants. The action of lime on 
sandy soils will naturally be the reverse 
