14 
its roots. This method is often necessary 
where the pips of apples or pears have been 
sown in the nursery. 
The young seed-beds are equally subject 
to the attacks of the Courtiliere or ‘“‘Mole- 
Cricket.” Follow its burrow with a finger ; 
when you have traced the direction of its 
nest, give it, through a funnel, a few drops 
of oil mixed with a pint of water. The 
insect will come out of its hiding-place 
and die in the open air. 
Various weevils belonging to the follow- 
ing genera—Anthonomus, Apion, Rhyn- 
chites, &e.—form a group of small beetles 
which are very difficult to capture. 
Here, again, the careful dressing of the 
tree will help much to destroy them. The 
different’ transformations undergone by 
these insects being hindered, they will not 
be able to stand against the war waged 
against them in the hiding places where 
they take refuge. Remove the dead bark 
from the tree, sulphur the stems and 
branches, cleanse not only the infested 
apple tree itself, but its surrounding neigh- 
bers, no matter what dressing you make 
use of. Then remove a layer of earth and 
turf from round the bole of the tree, and 
make an “auto-da-f€’ of it and the debris 
you have collected. The “Lisette,” be- 
longing to the genus Phyllobius, which 
destroys the buds in the spring, should be 
collected early in the morning, or during 
rain or watering, and crushed. 
The Agrilus, a beetle which has no Eng- 
lish name, and the caterpillars of the Goat 
Moth (Cossus ligniperda), should be sought 
for at the end of their burrows. Any greasy 
matter spread and renewed on the trunk 
will prevent the female insects from de- 
positing their eggs on the bark or in the 
gapwood, and will stick to and held any of 
the winter moths (Cheimatobia brumata), 
either male or female, that craw] over it. 
Luminous traps, well managed, are cap- 
able of causing great havoc among winged 
insects, hardly to be noticed from theif 
minute size and night-flying habits. Moths 
belonging to the finily Pyralide and flies 
belonging to the genus Cecidomyia, which 
attack apples , are among the number. 
Alas, that all fruits cannot be tied up in 
bags! 
As regards the day-moving insects, our 
charming assistants, the small birds, take 
upon themselves to free us from them, or 
at least to make great havoc among them, 
and to capture them. both in the egg state 
and during their various changes.—Journal 
of the Royal Horticultural Society, Lon- 
don. 
Vegetable Garden. 
0 
OPERATIONS FOR JUNE. 
By W.'S. Campset. 
There has been splendid rain, with good 
prospects of a sufficiency for the growth of 
seasonable vegetables. 
Broad beans and peas will be the most 
prominent of the legumes in cultivation, 
although in the sheltered, warm localities 
. 
T 
HE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
about the north coast, French or kindney 
beans may be grown successfully through- 
out the year. Tomatoes also, to some ex- 
tent, may be grown, as well as potatoes and 
other tender vegetables, but it is almost 
useless to sow seeds. of these wherever 
frosts occur. Tomato plants may be kept 
alive—young rooted cuttings—in many 
localities with cool temperatures, under 
some kind of jprotection, for the purpose of 
planting out as soon in the spring as is ad- 
visable. Such rooted cuttings will grow 
quickly as the season advances and bear 
fruit sooncr than seedlings raised in the 
spring. Plants of young capsicums can 
also be kept alive, under protection, for 
early fruiting next season. By a little 
management, in this way, the season for 
such kinds of plants may be extended to 
some extent. But wherever natural 
shelter has been destroyed, or where arti- 
ficial shelter has not been provided for the 
garden, the difficulty of keeping tender 
plants alive will be increased. 
Asparagus and Rhubarb.—As the same 
kind of work is necessary for these two 
permanent vegetables, they may be referred 
to in the same paragraph. Both of them 
may be planted towards the end of winter 
or early in the spring before they begin to 
shoot, but in order to grow them to the best 
advantage it is advisable to’ have the land 
pzepared for them some time in advance of 
planting. Have the land well dug, or bet- 
ter still trenched, keeping the top soil on 
the surface, and, unless it is naturally in 
good heart, dig in and mix well with the 
soil a heavy dressing cf good dung, the 
more the dung has been saturated with 
urine the better it willbe. The undigested 
chaff which is not infrequently used for 
manure is of value only as vegetable mat- 
ter. However, if some sulphate of ammonia 
or nitrate of soda, with superphosphate cf 
lime and potash, be mixed up with this 
stuff, it will, when rotted, make a useful 
general manure for vegetables. To save 
the trouble of mixing the different ingre- 
dients mentioned, a “general fertiliser” can 
be obtained. I may say that I have found 
nitrate of soda applied to established 
plants of asparagus in the spring, either as a 
top dressing or dissolved in water, to be 
very useful indeed . 
Broad Beans.—Seeds may be sown as ex- 
tensively as may be required. One of the 
most useful varietics is the Windsor broad 
bean. There are many varieties, some 
with huge pods, but the above is a reliable 
good bean although an old one. 
Beans (French and Kidney).—Sow only 
in warm! localities where early frosts are 
not likely to occur. 
Beets (Red and Silver).—Attend to 
growing plants. Keep down the weeds and 
thin out well in order to allow cach plant 
to make proper growth. Do not sow any 
more seed during this month. 
Borecole or Kale.—Sow a little seed if it 
be thought that more plants will be re- 
quired. Cultivate the soil frequently be- 
tween the rows of all kale which have been 
planted out. 
Brussels Sprouts.—This most useful vege- 
Sune 1, 1905 
table succeeds best in a cool climate, and 
should be grown wherever it is likely to be 
successful, for it is one of the best of the 
cabbage family. <A little seed may be 
sown to keep up a stock cf seedlings. Any 
plants that are sufliciently advanced may be 
planted. 
Cabbage.—A little seed may be sown to. 
keep up a succession. Advanced pricked 
out seedlings can be planted: out from time 
tc time to meet requirements. 
Cauliflower.—Sow a little seed and plant 
out advanced pricked out seedlings. 
Carrot.—This is a good time for the sow- 
ing of carrot seed. Sow it thinly in drills in 
well-worked soil. Thin out the seedlings 
hy degrees until the remaining plants stand 
well apart. Keep down all weeds by fre- 
quent cultivation between the rows and 
hand-picking amongst the young plants. 
Celery and Celeriac—Plant out strong 
plants from seed-bed. Earth wp advanced 
plants. 
Endive.—Sow a little seed and plant out 
strong seedlings that may have been raised. 
Leck.—Seed may be sown in good quan- 
tity, in, say, two or three sowings during 
the month. It may be sown in a sced-bed, 
and the young onions transplanted when 
large enough to the permanent bed. Dig 
the soil well, drain well, and manure well, 
that isif the soil is not rich enough to grow 
onions without manure. Make the soil on 
surface of bed quite fine if the seed is to be 
sown where the onions are to grow. Sow 
the seed thick and broadcast if you desire to 
raise small onions, say for pickling, &e. 
If large ones are required, sow thinly in 
drills, and when the young onions come up 
and have grown to a few inches in height, 
thin them out well. Should there be any 
vacant spaces in the rows, some of the 
thinned-out onions can be planted in the 
gaps. 
Lettuce——Sow sced 
seedlings, 
Parsley.—This necessary herb should be 
in every garden. A little seed! may be 
sown if plants are required. 
Parsnip.—Sow a little seed in drills, The 
ground should be dug deep for this vege- 
table if good roots are required. 
Peas.—May be sown from time to time 
as required. 
Radish.—Sow a little seed occasionally 
in well-prepared small beds. Use well- 
rotted dung, and endeavor to grow the 
plants as quickly as possible, and use them 
whilst they are young and tender. 
Mustard and Cress—Sow a little seed 
occasionally. 
Seakale—This is a vegetable but seldom 
grown, probably because it takes a little 
more trouble to manage than other vege- 
tables. Its botanical name is Crambe mari- 
tima. It must.not be confounded with 
borecole or kale, which belongs to quite 
another family. The seakale succeeds best 
in heavy soil, thoroughly well manured, 
and dug or trenched 2 ft. deep. At the 
presont time of year the seakale. plants are, 
or should be, ready for planting—that is, 
when they are bare of leaves. Plant so 
that the tops of the kales are just about 
and transplant 
