4 THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
: July 1, 1905 
Large-growing trees should never be 
planted in small gardens, 1.c., of less than 
an acre in extent. One frequently sees 
fine specimens of Pinus insignis and other 
pines, Moreton Bay fig, Norfolk Island 
pine, and other trees, including the ubi- 
quitous pepper tree (Schinus) in gardens 
not a tenth of an acre in extent. The re- 
sult is, of course, that nothing else which 
will satisfy any gardening taste will grow 
in the place, and. eventually all effort to 
grow plants is abandoned. These large 
trees are in many places necessary as break- 
winds, but should be well away from the 
flower garden. Coniferous trees-that are 
suitable for gardens of moderate size are: 
Retinospora plumosa, Cupressus Lawson- 
iana aurea, Abies alba, and nigra, Picea 
Fraserii, and the handsome dwarf, or, 
rather, slow-growing, parasol fir, Sciado- 
pitys verticillata. The Japanese Persim- 
mon ig a deciduous shrub or small tree, 
that should be. more extensively planted 
in garden borders. 
varieties varying somewhat in habit, and 
in size and shape of fruit. In most districts 
they. color beautifully before losing their 
foliage in autumn, after which. the golden 
colored fruits are very showy. They are 
becoming better known as a delicious fruit 
when properly ripe. 
Summer-flowering, herbaceous plants 
may be divided and replanted. The im- 
proved Shasta daisies are very fine, and, 
being dwarf, are suitable for narrow bor- 
ders. 
Sweet peas are among the most showy 
and useful of annuals. They require a 
deep well-manured soil to give best results, 
_ and should be sown early that the plants 
may be strong and vigorous before com- 
mencing to bloom. To have them in 
flower for a long period, seed may be sown 
several times, from June till August. 
They should be trained on a trellis or wire 
support. The “cupid” sweet peas are a 
dwarf-growing type, and are suitable for 
borders or small beds. 
Chrysanthemums should be divided and 
the divisions planted out in unmanured 
soil to grow till spring. Where large 
flowers are desired the ground should be 
prepared now by digging in a liberal coat 
of good manure. The beds should be al- 
lowed to remain rough and high’ to tho- 
roughly sweeten the soil during the winter 
months, and later should be again well 
turned, and the soil and manure mixed to- 
gether.—“Agricultural Journal of Vic- 
-toria.” 
FLOWERS. 
Except in very cold places deciduous or- 
namental plants may be planted about the 
garden. This is a good time for a general 
ceverhaul useless plants should be taken 
out to be replaced by something better. 
Gardens are sometimes quite spoiled with 
There are a number of. 
half-dead plants or by overgrown trees and 
shrubs. Clean away all rubbish apply al 
good dressing of rotted farmyard manure, 
dig it in well and make ready for planting, 
either during the month or at any time 
until change of season. 
The most generally preferred flower, and 
in most people’s estimation the best, is 
the Rose, the universal favorite. Hveryone 
with a garden should endeavor to make a 
good collection, and after planting look 
after the plants. Roses may be planted 
during the month or later still, but it 
would be as well to get the work of plant- 
ing finished without delay. One of the 
prettiest of roses, pretty in all its forms 
from bud to the falling away of the petals, 
is Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, which is well 
worth growing. There is a climbing 
variety which may be even better to grow 
in some gardens. The flowers are the 
game as the other. Madame Caroline 
Testout is a beautiful rose algo well worth 
having. This bears large globular pink 
flowers. Mildred Grant, Madame Abel 
Chatenay, Climbing Niphetos, Papa Gon- 
tier, Madame Jules Grolez, The Bride, 
Maman Cochet, Marechal. Niel, The 
Meteor, Madame MHippolyte Jamain, 
Catherine Mermet, Bent Cant, Frau Karl 
Druschki (one of the most beautiful white 
roses in existence), Ernest Metz, Clara 
Watson, and Liberty, are all worth hav- 
ing; but there are hundreds of 
other good ones to _ select from. 
I have fust planted out for trial 
(but my soil is of the most wretched 
description) many of the long-named new 
varieties which are said to be excellent. 
Some of these are: Oberhofgartner Terks, 
Frau Lila Rautenstrauch, Gustave Gun- 
nerwald, Grosserhzog von Oldenburg, &c. 
If the flowers turn out to be as marvellous 
as the names, I will make a record of them 
for general information. 
THE ROSE BORDER. 
By C. : 
- The season has now come when we must 
see about renovating our beds and flower 
borders, removing those plants and shrubs 
which we no longer desire, and planting 
fresh ones in their places. The first claim 
on our attention is the “queen of flowers,” 
the rose. Of all floral embellishments of 
the garden. the rose reigns supreme in all 
parts of the civilised world. So universal 
is it, that it may be found growing in one 
form or another in nearly every garden 
whether belonging to palace or cottage. 
Rose-growing to be successful must be 
taken up in earnest, no half-hearted rose- 
grower ever arrived at excellence; but 
often blame his failures to the soil, situa- 
tion, or nurseryman, when all the time it 
is his own fault. The real lover of roses 
will discover a charm that will increase as 
time goes on, “and every successive season 
will present new beauties and supply ad- 
ditional delights as their sweet fragrance 
perfumes the air.” 
~ Roses that have not done well should be 
replaced by others more suitable. They 
are better when grown by themselves in 
specially prepared beds, but this is not al- 
ways posstble, so we have to make the best 
of the situation. They like abundance - 
of light and air, yet need to be sheltered 
from strong boisterous cold wind. Though, 
roses will grow in almost any soil, the most 
suitable is a deep rich and rather heavy 
loam. Sandy soils may be made suitable 
by adding clayey soil to it, and stiff heavy 
soils rendered open by adding such mate- 
rial as wood ashes, soot, leaf-soil, and tho- 
roughly decayed stable manure. Tea and 
Noisette roses do better on light soil made 
up by adding heavy soils. Good drainage 
is necessary. Experience has proved that 
it is better to put most of the manure on, 
as periodical mulching and dig it in after- 
wards, than put it in the bottom of the — 
trench. Before planting, all bruised root 
should be removed by means of a sharp 
knife. If it is necessary to plant them — 
near trees or big shrubs the roots of these 
should be cut some distance away. The 
chief item of work among roses at this 
season of the year is pruning. Much dif- 
ference of opinion exists among the ex- 
perts as to the time and manner in which 
different varieties of roses should be prun- 
ed. The sorts, situation, and climate 
have a lot to do with it. The old method 
of pruning everything hard back needs to 
be modified owing to the large number of 
varieties of roses now grown. Yor in- 
stance, we have a class called hybrid per- 
petual, produced by crossing and recross- 
ing of Damask provence and French roses 
with others; these flower mostly in spring. 
They are not comparable in profusion and 
continuous blooming to the hybrid teas, 
but in their flowering season are well able 
to hold their own. The tea scented or 
monthly roses have sprung from rosa in- 
dica as the result of various crossings; 
Noisettes from indica and moschata. Teas 
and Noisettes crossed with H.P. have pro-. 
duced hybrid teas; these are now univer- 
sally planted because of their beauty and 
usefulness, having proved themselves the 
most serviceable of all, though they lack 
the rich colors and good form and frag- 
rance of the hybrid perpetual class. The 
mode and extent of pruning depends lar- 
gely on the class to which the rose belongs 
and the climate. Varieties producing 
growth from one to twelve feet in length 
cannot all be pruned the same. Varieties 
of the H.P. class of robust growth with 
large buds do not need such severe cutting, 
or they will make wood at the expense 
of, the flower ; but if only decorative flowers 
are wanted, the canes may be tied down to 
stakes, when they will produce an extra 
quantity of blooms. The canes may be 
cut away after flowering, sorts with short 
twiggy shoots and small buds may be cut 
harder. It must be remembered that 
blooms come only from new, well-ripened 
wood of the previous year’s growth, all old 
and exhausted wood should be cut out as 
well as soft unripened shoots. Bourbons, 
such as Sou. de la Malmaison, should be 
cut as soon as they have done flowering. 
