August 1, 1905 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. . | 5 
form three or four resting buds on one 
rooting axis. These may be removed -in- 
dividually with a portion of the stem and 
its roots attached, potted, and grown on in 
a little warmth till planting time to en- 
courage further root action.’ If this 
method proves as satisfactory as has been 
expressed, it may well be a most impor- 
tant means of propagating peonies. As 
Temple suggested, it would probably be 
best to fill in the earth gradually rather 
than the whole depth at the start; but 
this is a matter for determination. Leaf 
mold being fine, light, and retentive of 
moisture would, it seems, be good material 
for covering.” thes 
Starting New Bens anp 
TRANSPLANTING. 
In starting new beds or plantations it is 
important to plant peonies where they 
have not been grown for at least two or 
three years, as bits of roots are practically 
certain to have been overlooked in digging 
up the plants, and such growing make con- 
_ fusion with varieties. Of course, any 
given variety can be replanted in the same 
situation without risk of mixtures. 
Peonies may be transplanted or dug up 
for division to best advantage late in Feb- 
ruary or in March, rather than in April or 
May, as the roots then have a chance to 
become established before cold weather. 
The crowns may be set about 3 in. below 
the surface; deeper planting is undesir- 
able. For permanent planting peonies 
should be set 3 ft. apart, or, if there is 
plenty of room, 4 ft. is none too much. If 
set closer it will be difficult to get between 
the plants without injuring the blossoms. 
If plants are small when set out inter- 
spaces may be utilised for gladioli or any 
plants that will not cast appreciable shade 
or otherwise interfere with the peonies. 
Such plants had best be annuals, or of an 
annual character, as perennials would. in- 
terfere with a free cultivation of the soil. 
In digging use a fork, not a spade, as less 
injurious to the roots of the peonies. 
_ How to Puranr. 
For a limited number of peonies scat- 
tered planting is desirable, as allowing for 
the full development of each individual 
plant without loss of space. When grown 
close together the blossoms during a heavy 
rain or wind are apt to be beaten down 
and entangled with the flowers and foliage 
of adjacent plants. Where considerable 
quantities are grown beds are doubtless 
best, thus having all together, a conveni- 
encé in watering and other cultural treat- 
ment; also the effect of mass in a bed is 
very fine. 
Plants should be set 3 ft. apart each way 
in a bed, or, better, 4 ft. between rows if 
there is room to spare. Never having had 
this luxury of space I cami affirm that 3 ft. 
will do very well. Beds 6 or 9 ft. wide and 
of convenient length cut in grass and 
carrying two or three rows of peonies re- 
spectively are very attractive and easily 
gotten at for handling or inspection. Such 
beds are good for ros> "ges, or 
vegetables, which may be grown in rota- 
tion with peonies when they have to be 
taken up. Beds of this character are used 
extensively in the Botanic Garden of Har- 
vard University, in Cambridge, and also in 
the large garden of a skilful Jady horticul- 
turist in Newport, where very best results 
and effects are attained. Large square 
beds with grass paths are used by Dr. 
Charles Sedgwick Minot, of Readville, 
Mass., in a large part of his extensive col- 
lection of some 450 choice peonies, includ- 
ing 238 varieties. Such beds may be made 
of any convenient size, but beds for fifty or 
one hundred plants have certain advan- 
tages on account of the ease of keeping 
tract of such numbers. 
DispuppiInG-—MANnurRING. ~ 
A peony well grown, or the same 
variety grown poorly or with average cul- 
ture are very different. Unless really well 
grown one does not know what are the pos- 
sibilities of this fine flower. Disbudding 
distinctly improves the quality of remain- 
ing flowers, especially on the larger varie- 
ties. In some varieties, however, where 
profusion of bloom is a feature, they may 
be left to advantage. The lateral buds 
should be removed as soon as they are large 
enough to handle, so as to throw all the © 
strength into the leading bud. Proximity 
to a hose is an important feature when 
possible in planning tho position of a 
peony bed, for the free use of water in the 
growing season is a great aid in producing 
fine flowers. Liquid cow manure, or other 
liquid manure used during the growing 
‘season, promotes a splendid vigorous’ 
growth and correspondingly superior 
flowers. Water from a cesspool is excel- 
lent. Sheep manure or other fine 
manure stirred into the soil about 
the peonies in Spring works well, being 
washed down to the roots by. rain or water’ 
ing. In the late fall it is desirable to put 
4 or 5 in. of barnyard manure above the 
crown of each plant. This may be done 
after the tops are cut off and the ground 
freezes hard; the manure being dug in in 
spring. 
Delicate colored peonies lose their color 
more or legs in strong sunshine, so that 
for very best results they may be shaded 
to advantage. By shading T have retained 
delicate shaded pinks in flowers, which 
were entirely lost in flowers of the same 
variety grown ai few feet away, but. not 
shaded. Of course, opening flowers in the 
house has the same effect as shading, sav- 
ing the delicate colors, and some of the 
finest blooms one sees are flowers thus 
opened off the plant. 
Courtine THE Brooms. 
Peonies have a great mass of petals, at 
least the double ones, so that when picked 
there is a large surface for loss of water. 
Such being the fact, it is important that 
they be put into water as quickly ag pos- 
sible after cutting. The best method is ta 
carry a pail or can of water into the garden 
and put the flowers instantly into wetc> 
wees 
not even waiting to cut a second bloom. 
Experiment has demonstrated that flowers 
thus instantly put into water will outlast 
flowers kept even a few minutes without 
water. This is especially important for 
flowers that: are to be exhibited, or shipped 
to a distance. When a peony is on the 
plant there is a continuous flow of sap to 
the flower. On cutting, this flow being 
shut off, from the suction thereby inaugu- 
rated it is quite probable that air pairticlos 
are sucked in. If this is true, such’ air 
particles would tend to obstruct the ves- 
sels, interfering with the succeeding flow 
of water. If cut peonies are to be shipped 
they had best be kept ten or twelve hours, 
in water in a cool place, when they become 
surcharged with water and travel vastly 
better than fresh-cut blooms. The same 
principles as regards cutting doubtless 
would apply to most other flowers as well. 
Carnation Breeding. 
By C. W. Warp, 
before the Breeders’ Association, at 
Champaign, Ill. 
The present carnation with which we are 
working is the product of several centuries 
of culture and hybridization. It is an open 
pollinated species, and mother plants can 
be used both from the hybrid plants as 
well ay inbreeding upon the game plants, or 
upon the same variety. Once secured 
from seeds a variety is easily perpetuated 
by propagation from! cuttings, which are 
secured in abundance and may be casil~ 
rooted. Improvements in varieties ma, = 
made by bud selection and bud variatic« 
due to hybridization. In raising! variet. 4 
from hybridised seed very few imports? 
sorts are produced, the proportion }) ju” 
about one good variety for each one thon 
sand hybrids grown. 
Up to the present time I have beou 
breeding for color alone, basing my «or! 
upon the theory that any laws developec 
in color work would hold good when ap- 
plied to the development of other devired 
qualities. 
The tools which I use in my work are 
very simple indeed, consisting of a paix of 
delicate tweezers and a microscopic magni- 
fying glass. The method employed iy to 
find the anther just bursting, so that the 
pollen is in a condition of dry powder. The 
anther is removed by means of the tweezers, 
and the pistil of the flower desired to be 
fertilised is lightly touched along its entire 
length by the pollen bearing anther. 
Tn order to do my work with reasonable 
method, I have divided it into sections as 
follows: Crimson section, comprising erim- 
sons or scarlet-maroon in color; dark pink 
section, which comprises all rose, chexy 
and deep pink tones; light pink section, 
which comprises the light salmon or Day- 
break tints; scarlet section; which! com: 
prises all of the colors which may be’ term= 
ed red or scarlet ; white section comprises 
tints; yellow section, yellow variegated, 
cx'> the creamy white and snow white 
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