T he September Number of.... 
the Rust 
falian Gardener 
Flower Garden— 
CONTAINS— 
The Vegetable Garden— 
Operations: for September, Making Gardens, Operations for September. Asparagus, 
Haarlem Exhibition, Flower Fashions: Rhubarb, &c, Cabbage. 
Peony in Landscape Work, Rose Growing, Frames. 
Sweet Pea Notes, Smilax, The Poultry Yard— : 
The Orchard— Breeding Table Poultry. Feeding, 
Operations for September. Horticulture. Incubation Hints. Eggs, 
Pruning. Scraping. Make a Note, of this Cackle. 
Grafting. Strawberries. 
Raspberries. Citrus Trees. South Australian Show Dates. 
EiowmeE Garden. 
OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER 
Lawns. 
On we RE lawns of buffalo grass are to 
be planted the present month is the 
best possible time for the operation. 
In preparing the soil, which is really the 
most important point, a good quantity of manure 
should be incorporated with it to a depth of 
18 in., and the whole should be trodden firmly 
before the surface is levelled, so that there may 
be no subsidence after the grass is planted, ‘I'he 
roots of the grass-may be either dibbled in at 
4in, apart or small trenches opened straight 
across the ground in which to lay them. The 
first method is the most expeditious, and if the 
roots are putin deep, leaving an inch of stem 
above the surface, there will be no fear of 
failure. In “all cases the grass should receive 
one good watering, as the work proceeds, 
Bulbs. f 
Many kinds of bulbs are now at their best, 
and will need careful stapling to keep them in 
good condition as long ag possible. 
more unpleasing to the eye than seeing bulbous 
plants neglected and laid down by the wind. 
Summer-flowering bulbs, including gladioli, 
_tuberoses, lillies, and tigridias, should be 
planted this month; and all require deep, rich - 
soils. 
Chrysanthemums. 
Commence propagating chrysanthemums both 
| by cuttings and a division of the roots. JE for 
pst culture two cuttings should be put in each 
3-in pot, so that when rooted sufficiently to bo 
put into larger pots they-may--be separated 
without injury to the roots. These plants 
require a soil. of a. fairly rich texture, but it - 
is often made too good, the result being that it ° 
is sometimes difficult to keep the growth in due 
cneck, and the plants, whether in pots or in the 
Nothing is 
borders become overgrown; the stems and 
foliage are out of all due proportion to the 
flowers they produce. ‘Too much water during 
the middle stages of growth is partly the cause 
of them becoming overgrown. A moderate 
supply of water until the buds are fairly \formed 
is best, after which plenty of water and liquid 
manure are necessary for the production of first 
class flowers. : 
Roses. 
The rose garden will require particular 
attention during this month. Like many other 
plants, roses are much improved by disbudding. 
Any or all buds that form in the centre of tho 
tree or bush should be rubbed off. This pre- 
vents crowding, and throws all the strength of 
the plant into the roots that remain. Where 
roses are to be grown for exhibition purposes 
one bud only should be left on each strong 
shoot, and comparatively few flowers should be 
allowed to develop on each plant. When the 
flowers begin to open itis a good plan to tie 
thin white paper over each to protect them 
from bad weather, as the least blemish in these 
flowers weakens the exhibit and the coloring is 
not inthe least affected by being covered or pro- 
tected for a few days. Should aphides appear 
on. roses, they should be dealt with immediately 
by spraying ; a solution of soapy water is effec- 
tual, and this is made by dissolving 2 oz of com- 
mon soap in a gallon of hot water, and using it 
whilst at a temperature of 130 deg. Fah. All 
roses should now be: mulched with short, well- 
decayed stable manure, 
Summer Annuals. 
The main sowings of summer annuals should 
be made early in the month. They may be raised 
without artificial heat; the beds should be 
formed in frames, using a fine rich sandy soil, 
keeping the glass over them until the plants 
are up. - 
Hardy annuals may be planted to the end of 
the month, and others scwn in the open borders 
for succession flowering. 
Shrubs. 
Choice fibrous-rooted shrubs, as azaleas, rho- 
dodendrons, and boronias for hill country will 
now require mulching; first, they should be 
dug around, but the soil must not be distri- 
buted nearer the stems than the tips of the 
branches, as much mischief is done by disturb- 
ing the mass of-flbrous roots nearer to the 
stems. : 
Camellias.. 
Camellias, which succeed remarkably well 
maeeee 
when planted outin the hills, should now be put 
in. They require deeply trenched ground, with 
a good quantity of well-decayed manure, mixed 
evenly with the soil, and a slight shade should 
be provided the first snmmer; four stakes 
driven in round the plants, anda piece of bage- 
ing stretched over them is quite sufficient, as it 
is the mid-day sun which does the mischief. 
Smilax. 
6 EVERAL narrow beds are better to manage 
, than one wide one. A heavy loam, made 
quite rich by a liberal admixture of old stable 
- manure, is the right kind of soil to grow smilax 
in. The distance between plants should be from 
six to eight inches, and the rows may be from 
eight to twelve inches apart. 
The stringing of the bed should not be 
delayed too long after planting. A good watering 
down of the finished bed will generally suffice 
until the plants have started to grow, then water 
may be given in moderate quantities and at 
regular intervals, avoiding as much as possible 
too much in this particular, especially in tho 
first part of the season, and later on every time 
after the strings have been cut. Cutting a string 
here and there allthrough the bed makes water- 
ing and the management of the bed a difficult 
task, The cutting of strings should be com- 
menced at one end of the bed, every string, good 
or bad, should be taken, and the cutting be thus 
continued until, in time, the other end is 
reached. This will simplify the culture of 
smilax to a great extent, and will also increase 
the yield of the plants. he: 
