DercemBer 15, 1905 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. ee 
harberrry vieing with the narcissus and the tulip 
in the wild garden for our intererts; and pre- 
sently the place is a veritable fairy land of life 
and color, from the unfolding leaves of the 
tiny Nymyaea pygmaea, in the pool, to the 
nodding trumpets of the tecoma, mounting sky— 
ward on the walls. And so it goes until frost 
cuts off the lingering flowers of chrysanthemum 
geranium, dahlia and aster. Remember, too, [ 
have not exhausted, but just touched upon the 
field open to him who cares to try my recipe for 
a garden home. 
The Farmer’s Orchard in Victoria. 
BY C. BOGUE LUFFMANN, 
ORCHARDS are wanted as protec:ion, as aids to 
beautifying the surronndings, and as direct 
sources of profit. But as the country is not all 
expossed, barren, and unsightly, fruit trees must 
for the most part be set out with the object of 
their yielding a direct return, and thereby adding 
to the value of the farm. 
The selling of fruit is scarcely less than a 
problem to many, and it will never be wise to 
set about the plantitg of an orchard in any 
position until it is cleariy seen where — the 
markets are,and how farit will be practicable 
to reach them with the produce of no. more than 
an acre ortwo. As a matter of fact, small 
parcels are of yalue only when offered in small 
local markets, and if producers are many and 
docal consumers few, there can be no profit in 
the venture— that is, apart from its value to the 
home and farm-yard. 
Under the most favourable conditions of soil 
and climate, the farmer’s orchard may be large, 
and yield a higher average return than any other 
branch of the estate, since, where animals are 
kept and ‘systematic manuring is practised, the 
ground and trees yield more and more, and earn 
an ever-increasing market value forthe property. 
(A Direct or Indirect Souree of Profit. 
_The farmer’s orchard may, therefore, be a 
direct or an indirect source of revenue, ac- 
cording to his position, his native capacity, and 
general plan of operations. Thus we see, many 
fruit-growers turn farmers, and also farmers 
turn fruit-growers; and, further, some employ a 
few trees as a hobby, and extend the planting to 
scores of acres. Everything depende on personal 
ability to matiage trees, Their ways and wants 
are not so easily understood as:are those of cows 
or pigs.. They are'of lasting value or are lasting 
huisances‘according as they are understood and 
cared for, or go unconsidered and uncared for. 
So, again, one has to say,’ let the farm orchard 
be of a size in direct accord ‘with one’s. know- 
ledge of its. wants. - Victoria does “not; really 
want more frnit trees for its present or imme- 
diate population, but more’skill in managing the> 
present stock. Skillful orchardists are extreme-~- 
ly rare amongst the unsettled popnlation, and 
ifa farmer is not able to discover and direct, the 
necessary work of the orchard, it is. doubtful if 
it will prove genuiue source of profit: 
_. This'somewhat lengthy preamble is necessary 
in order to save those who, seeing others succeed, 
with trees, think ‘that the task is an easy one. 
Let the farmer who’ contemplates planting an 
orchard of any size first read the earlier article 
on this subject; then a good book on soil, as are 
those by Hall, King, and Roberts; also a good 
standard book on fruit-growing, as Bailey’s 
“Principles,” Bunyard’s “Fruit Farming,” and, 
' for the warmer parts of the State, Wickson’s 
“Californian Fruits,’ True, these books do 
not exactly fitin with Australian conditions and 
wants, but they hold a lot of solid foundation 
material, and, if well studied in conjinction with 
local experience and practice, any man equal to 
managing an orchard will receive sound support 
from them. 
The Value of Local Experience, 
But perhaps the safest and surest guide is the 
methods pursued by a successful local man, for, 
since all gecd books are the outcome of 
exverience, we shall always find that a man who 
is succeedsne has a great deal to teach others if 
they will only be modest enough to take it. 
Busy and successful men have no time to say 
how it is done, but they do not object to our 
looking over their fence, and as a glance is as 
good as u stare to. those of the right fibre, the 
results of every good local effort are plain for all 
to see. 
As the methods of preparing ground, selecting, 
planting, and protecting of trees were dealt with 
in a.former article,no more need be said than 
what is absolutely essential to the three cooler 
zones of the State. 
f The Coast Region. 
The price of country lying between the shore 
and the foothills of the Dividing Range is so 
vast and viried in quality, position, and clim te 
as to allow of the: growth of every kind of fruit 
common to the whole State; but the farmer who 
would have an easily-managed and _ safe little 
orchard should confine himself to apples, pears, 
plums, and a few bush fruits. If very near the 
coast, and a really warm soil and position, a few 
lemons and oranges may be possible, Peaches 
and apricots will also thrive where itis warm 
enough for lemons. but the greatest care is often 
necessary in selecting both species and varieties 
in order to insure free growth and regular. fruit- 
ing. Always supposing a vegetable and: flower 
garden such fruiting plants as grapes, almonds, 
oranges, lemons, strawberries, the bush fruits, 
figs, cherries, and quinces may be well regarded 
as decorative features of the home, and the true 
orchard area reserved for the more vigorous tree 
fruits. 
Comparative Value of, Different Fruits. 
Of these, the apple is the most valuable; next 
the pear, and then the plum. Under average 
conditions, about 100 trees stand to the acre, 
and in devoting such an acre to an orchard one 
should make up the numbers in this way:—Fifty 
apples, 30 pears, 20 plums. Should peaches 
and apricots be known to thrive, and included 
in the 100, then the list should be as follows:— 
Fifty apples, 20 pears, 10 plums, 10 peaches, 10 
apricots. With a two-acre orchard or extent to 
accommodate 200 trees, at.a given distance, the 
- additions: should be in the way of increased 
quantities ample for the averaye home. Thus, a 
two-hundred tree orchard should hold 130 apples 
30 pears, 20 plums, 10 peaches, 10 apricots. 
Many circumstances may occur to alter the 
relative figures in these lists, as where soil is too 
poor for apples*yery good pears may be grown; 
hence they may lead in peint of numbers, 
Again, plums are of unequal value in different 
districts, and, unless they are wanted for pre- 
serving in large quaniities, or it is known how 
to convert them into prunes, they should be 
sparingly grown. ; 
Guides to Selecting and Forming Trees. 
As the soil and position vary, so must the 
strength and build of, the tree. For open and 
trying positions put in nune but really vigorous, 
upright kinds, and for rich soils in protected. 
situations choose rather long-trunked and light 
wood-forming kinds. Good nurserymen are 
only {too glad to supply what is asked for, 
providing they are asked in time, and it is often 
necessary to order trees to be made for a par- 
ticular situation in order to secure the very. 
-best results. Of course, there are ways of 
“strengthening weak trees, and weakening over- 
strong ones; but for those who do not devote all 
- their time to the study of the orchard it will be 
at last necessary to start with trees well adapted 
to meet the conditions. 
Conditions for Planting. 
Trees which lose their leaves in autumn ma y 
be transplanted at any time between this period 
and spring: but, in a gereral way, they are best 
planted in autumn or early winter—say, May 
and June. But if soil is at all wet, cold, and 
our, the trees should be kept “heeled in” in as 
specially prepared bed till the worst winter 
weather is past, ; 
Pears and plums have the hardiest roots 
when it is an affair of resisting cold and wot; 
hence they may be set out when they arrive; 
but apples are more sensitive, and peaches, 
apricots, and lemons particularly so, and by far 
the best results are obtained in cold districts. 
when they are nursed through the winter and 
set out very carefully in September or October. 
From Cape Howe to Portland is afar ery 
when it comes to prescribing an orchard for all 
the farmers who toil. between these places, and 
no one is more conscious than the writer how 
many varied plans there must be before all may 
succeed in making a success of an acre or two of 
fruit trees. 
Drain, Deepen, Enrich the Soil. 
Finally, let every piece of ground put under 
fruit trees be either drained or ditched, work to, 
as great depthas possible, thoroughly eleaned of 
bad weeds and roots, and dunged and limed as 
far as it is possible to use these material 
There canthen be very little doubt but that 
trees of some kind or another will. thrive well 
enough to make the venture a successful one, 
The Highland Farm Orchard. 
Homesteads lying from 1,000. to 1,500 feet 
elevation are limited to orchard trees which can 
endure severe frosts, and have the capacity for- 
fruiting in comparatively short summers. Of 
such are apples, pears, plums, cherries, and all 
the small fruits. . 
The main points in planting in high cool 
country are—Choosing very airy and well- 
lighted positions, selecting small wooded types. 
of trees, planting them a good distance apart— 
from 24 to 36 feet, according to their size and 
the richness of soil—and keeping the soil firm. 
and comparatively dry in winter. Lot us éx- 
plain these points further. Confined positions 
make the trees grow coarse, and in some cases 
they accumulate a great deal of filth in the form 
of insects, mosses, and other parasites. Well- 
lighted positions prevent these. Large-framed: 
trees fruit very late in life. and then but irregu- 
larly, whereas smaller types mature early and 
fruit regularly. Open planting secures plenty 
of air, heat, and light—all very essential in’ the 
hills and high ranges, Loose soil encourages 
roots, and thereby delays the fruiting of the. 
treés: hence, when a tree is well grown it. 
requires to be steadied by mens of firm and 
well-exposed soil. Warm aspects are to. bé pre- 
ferred, as also good natural drainage. The 
banks of streams, boggy or peaty earth, are un- 
suitable for orchards in high ‘and cool’ regions, 
though itis always well to have command of 
water and plenty of solid material to keep fup 
the fertility of the land. ~ 
Many of the points set out in the early part 
of this and the previous article need to’ be 
studied and acted upon before attempting the: 
formation of a farm orchard in the cool hill 
districts of the State. 
Shape and Size of Trea, 
- To induce a moderate size when fully grown,. 
the hillorchard tree should have along trunk, 
anything between 30 and 60 inches, according 
tothe position and normal vigour of the variety 
selected. The branches will be light in direct 
proportion to the length and substance of the 
trunk. Light depending branches yield a small 
tree and more regular fruiting than is the case 
treewith a which has stout upright wood. 
Pruning to Form 
Very little pruning is necessary when starting 
orchards in hilly country, The main work is in 
the direction of thinning out branches in wrong 
positions, and in trimming up the trunk to 
secure a length proportionate to the vigour it 
displays. Thus one works to keep a weak tree 
with a short trunk and fairly upright branches, 
whilst a stout grower must be given a long 
trunk, not have any of the desired branches cut 
back, but left full length, that they may weigh. 
out and give the requisite spread and degree of. 
weakness to the! ead, ghee | 
