June 1, 1904 — 
CARNATION CUTTINGS. 
Tho only really quick and certain way 
of treating cuttings in the open is as fol- 
Jows: “From any large tuft that contains 
many growths that could not be layered in 
time, let anyone take and strip off from 
the parent plant, each with a heel att- 
ftached, as many pieces as are required. 
Taking the growth in the thumb and fore- 
finger of the right hand, and giving a 
slight, yet sharp, downward pull, the piece 
wyill come away with a perfect heel almost 
every time. Now make a little trench as 
though setting a Box edging, and so deep 
as to admit the so-called cuttings being 
buried up to the leafy tuft, and insert 
them without trimming, stem-splitting, or 
stone wedges. A little pure sand or very 
sandy soil may be put in each trench at 
option, and may depend on the nature of 
tho soil. There is, however, no need for 
any prepared bed of soil at all. As the 
cuttings are placed in ithe trench, and 
while held in position by the left hand, 
draw sufficient soil with the right hand to 
keep them fairly erect, and, finally, finish 
off with the spade while also preparing a 
second trench. A good gentle tread with 
the foot when the trench is two-thirds 
filled with soil is a necessity. Not only is 
this a quick way, but a way also that en- 
sures cuttings of the size of layers, and 
quite large enough for spring planting. 
By this means several hundred may be in- 
serted in an hour. : 
_—— 
CARNATIONS BURSTING. 
The cause is chiefly with the variety, and 
3s due in some measure to the shortness of 
walyx, the more or less bluntness of the 
ealyx at the apex, and the great number 
ef petals in the flower. Varieties with fewer 
petals and a longer, more uniformly-sized 
calyx are much more free from this burst- 
ing of the calyx. No culture can remedy 
it, but it is made worse by disbudding, 
which naturally gives greater force to the 
flower buds that remain, 
BOUVARDIAS. 
Planting out can be.practised by those 
who do not care to be troubled with the 
Jabor involved by pot culture. Lifted care- 
fully in early autumn and put into pots 
just large enough to contain the roots, 
they will bloom all through the late 
autumn and early winter months. When 
Bouvardias are grown in pots all through 
the season they must have skilful treat- 
ment and a lot of attention—more than 
most amateurs are able to give them; but 
pianting out in suitable soil at the right 
time is sure to give good results. 
The best way is to set them out in frames, 
as in this way several weeks are gained, 
and one can make sure that the»young 
growths are not checked by spring frosts. . 
The soil should be nice and free, with 
Nittle well-rotted manure or some concen- 
“arated manure in it.—J. C. B. 
“THE AUSTRALI4N GARDENER. 
ROSES. 
oO 
NOTES ON ROSES. 
The planting season is rapidly approach- 
ing once more, and it is now by no means 
too soon to consider what we shall plant in 
the forthcoming autumn, or even to com- 
mene the selection and preparation of the 
ground, or sites, for our plants. 
Those who are wise will have visited the 
various exhibitions of this ever-popular 
flower, held in different parts of the coun- 
try, and, at any rate, some of the nurseries 
where the Rose is cultivated on a more 
or less extensive scale, making notes of the 
best of the newer introductions, or of any 
of the older kinds that they may not al- 
ready possess, with! a list of all they would 
like to add to their collections, according 
to ile space at disposal. Some even 
go so far as to visit the nursery at the pre- 
sent time, or a little later, and select their 
own. plants, but this is scarcely necessary— 
except, perhaps, in the case of plants for 
special purposes—but an important point 
is always to “order early,” as it appears 
to be an invariable rule among nursery- 
men that those who come first: should be 
served best. 
IT am always a strong advocate for early 
planting also, in the case of Roses, or al- 
most anything clse. Especially where the 
soil is of ati all a heavy or damp (and con- 
sequently cold) character, it is much better 
to get the planting of anything of the kind 
done carly, while the ground still retains 
a good deal of latent warmth, than to 
wait until later, when the frost o* cold 
rains, &c., have reduced its temperature 
to a much lower point, and such soils are 
consequently damp; cold, and “‘sad.” A 
gentle warmth in the ground, at or selow 
the roots, is a great aid to the formation 
of plenty of fresh feeding fibres, and when 
this takes place before the winter sets in 
the jlants will seldom fail to start into 
a very vigorous and healthy growth in the 
spring, even when the top growth, or 
branches, are cut back to some extent by 
‘severe frost, &c., during the winter. 
The character of the season makes a good 
deal of difference in the right or best time 
for planting, of course, and the nature of 
the goil, as well as the local climate, &c., 
must also be taken into consideration, but 
what should be aimed at, principally, is 
to get the plants in when the soil is in such 
a state as to afford a gentle warmth about 
their roots, while the tops are compara--° 
tively cool, and evaporation is not too ac- 
tive. Never plant, if it can be avoided, 
wien the soil is either very, or even really, 
wet, nor yet so dry as to haye lost some 
slight degree of adhesiveness. A supply 
of dry, and rather fine, soil, of good quality, 
is often of the greatest use when planting 
in a too damp or coarse staple—for this 
purpose old potting soil, leaf mould, road 
sidings, &c., are all suitable, but if the 
weather is wet this should be stored under 
cover until required. 
It “goes without saying,” of course, that 
the ground, or sites, for the plants, must . 
be deeply trenched and well manured be- 
ripened and the pots full of roots. 
7 
fore getting them in place, and it 1s scar- 
cely too soon to commence this work even 
now. Where the soil is light and dry 
use plenty of good, “fat” farmyard or cow 
manure; but if heavy or clayey let the 
material used be of a comparatively light 
and strawy or flaky character. The drain- 
age should be sufficient, but by no means 
excessive. 
Finish repotting any Roses in this form 
that require it, and when those first at- 
tended to are found to have rooted through 
to the sides of the pots rather more water 
should be given, but do not overdo it. 
Thrifty young plants are frequently !:fted 
from the ground and potted, and this 
method is somewhat less costly than pur- 
chasing the usual pot plants, but a month 
hence will be time enough for the opera- 
tion. 
Rosarian. 
ROSES UNDER GLASS. 
Where Roses are grown in cold houses or 
in those only moderately heated it is quite - . 
time to see about pruning the plants. 
Should they be just received from the 
nurseryman they are, as a rule, thoroughly 
It i 
always advisable with such plants to remove 
about an inch of the surface soil, replacing _ 
this with a little new compost consisting of 
good loam and well-rotted manure in about 
equal proportions.. Remove all sticks and 
prune the growths back to good plump 
eyes. Sumething depends upon one’s ob- 
ject as to how the pruning should be done. 
If we desire to form them into specimens 
with a view to exhibiting say next year, 
_ rather hard pruning must be resorted to, 
the ripe stout growths cut back to four or 
five vyes, and, if possible, with the top eye 
on each shoot facing outward. A good start 
is thus made towards forming a shapely 
plant: Where quantity instead of quality 
is desired, then a much more moderate 
pruning will suffice. In all cases keep the 
centre of the plant open. This can be 
assisted by careful tying out. As soon as 
the pruning is completed tie a piece of 
string beneath the rim of the pot, then 
bring down the growths slightly by means 
of a piece of twisted raffia secured to the 
shoot and string beneath the rim, When 
thus prepared put the plants upon inverted 
pots and bring them as near the light as 
practicable. No water will be needed at the 
root until new shoots have pushed about 
half an inch, then it is advisable to give a 
good soaking, repeating the watering in 
two consecutive mornings, but prior to this 
the plants should be syringed with cold 
water every fine morning immediately after 
pruning. Abundance of air must be 
afforded from the commencement, If this 
is adhered to mildew troubles will be 
minimised. When cutting east winds pre- 
vail, the side air should be shut off from 
the side whence they come. I prefer to 
keep a crack of air at the top on nearly 
every night, the exceptions being during 
frosty weather Even then, when artificial 
-heat can be given, a buoyant atmosphere is 
preferable to a stuffy one. What Roses do 
not like is a check of any kind. A uniform 
