June 1, 1904 
RHODODENDRON. BEDS. 
NEw AND Oxrp. 
Rhododendrons rank very high amongst 
flowering shrubs, and deserve to be more 
extensively grown even than they are. All 
soils will, however, not suit them; in some 
districts where the plants are not’ disturbed 
to any great extent, and where the ground 
around them is left in its natural state, 
thousands of young bushes spring up every 
year as a result of the dropping of the 
seeds, especially those of R. Ponticum, 
which is the most common of all. 
How very dearly would owners of small 
gardens near to towns prize a few fine 
specimens such as grow wild in some of our 
outlying woods. It has been my privilege 
to live for many years near to where 
hur dreds of acres of Rhododendrons thrive, 
and I have thus been able to study their 
growth. 
It is next to impossible to grow a good 
specimen of any of the different varieties in 
soil containing calcareous matter. Used 
soil, such as’ we have in our vegetable 
gardens, is not good for Rhododendrons. 
But a very sandy peat, or fibrous loam, 
even if the latter is inclined to clay, will 
suit the plants better. The sandy peat is 
mostly found in woods and on common 
ground, and where ordinary garden loam is 
unsuitable it is best to go to the trouble and 
expense of obtaining a quartity of peat for 
the special purpose of growing the plants. 
Though Rhododendrons luxuriate in a peat 
bed, Izhave seen large numbers thriving 4 
the crevices amongst rocks where a limited 
quantity of soil was available for the roots, 
but where water was dripping from rock to 
rock almost the whole year round. 
Some of the hybrids have a very compact 
habit of growth and are highly suitable for 
cultivation in small gardens. All Rhodo- 
-dendrons should be carefully cultivated and 
not neglected when once they are planted. 
But the culture must consist of surface 
hoeing of the soil and of applications of 
_ top-dressings annually, chiefly; on no 
account must digging be done amongsé the 
plants, as they are surface rooting, and the 
better they thrive the more will the roots 
form a mat near to the surface. 
Standard Rhododendrons look very beau- 
tiful indeed, and an avenue of them with a 
pathway between has a very imposing ap- 
pearance. But even in small gardens, a 
standard specimen or two may be grown. 
On large lawng the clear stem of the plant 
should be about 5 feet; on smaller ones, 
from 8 feet 6 inches to 4 feet. 
Good drainage is essential, especially 
where beds are made on the level giound 
or in hollows where a clayey soil obtains, 
but on slopes and raised borders at the edge 
-of lawns artificial drainage is not necessary. 
How very effective are the branches of 
these plants where they form an undulating 
fringe resting on the green lawn at the edge 
-of a shrubbery. ‘The cutting back should 
be done piecemeal and not all at one time, 
as in the case of the common laurel. Some 
of the more delicate sorts are soon injured 
by injudicious pruning, but Ponticum and 
‘Catawbiense hybrids will withstand free 
pruning. . 
Where new beds have to be formed, take 
out the original soil to a depth of two feet 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
or so, and displace it with a sandy peat and 
some very fibrous loam, make the mixture 
very firm, and put in healthy plants with 
plenty. of fibrous roots attached to them, 
After planting mulch the surface, and pay 
close attention to watering for some months, 
as valuable specimens are often lost through 
neglect in this matter. Help them to get 
well established. 
These are a few pretty sorts, namely, 
Austin Layard, rosy crimson, dark spots ; 
Broughtonii, also rosy crimson; Countess 
of Normanton, white, dark margin; 
Duchess of Sutherland, white, rose margin ; 
Alexander Adie, rosy scarlet; Cynthia, 
crimson flushed with rose; Decorator, clear 
scarlet, dark spots; Dhuleep Singh, dark 
crimson; Karl of Haddington, fine rose; 
Frederick Waterer, bright crimson ; George 
Hardy, fine white; Grand Arab, crimson; 
Helen Waterer, scarlet, white centre; John 
Waterer, fine carmine; Kate Waterer, rosy 
crimson with yellow splash; Lady Hleanor 
Cathcart, clear rose with crimson spots ; 
Lord Hiversley, scarlet crimson; Magnifi- 
cum, light rose; Mrs. J. Pean, salmon 
pink; Mrs. John Waterer, rosy crimson ; 
Pictum, clear white, with orange spots; 
and Pink Pearl, a beautiful flesh colored 
pink.—G. R. Kyurr, 
PINK DOGWOOD, 
Although perhaps twenty years since the 
introduction of the pink dogwood, Cornus 
florida rubra, no nurseryman has. all the 
stock of it he could sell. Every year quan- 
tities are propagated, but to get a supply of 
large plants seems impossible. Vhe demand 
for it is so great that the small one or two 
year plants are sold at once, leaving none 
to grow up larger. 
It is not to be wondered that the demand 
for it is so extensive. When a good-sized 
bush of it is in bloom it is a glorious sight, 
and a sight no other bush or small tree 
approaches in appearance. Dogwoods are 
pretty trees always, whether in flower or 
not, and even when not in leaf they are 
ornamental. When a laige Such of the 
pink dogwood is in flower, strangers, at a 
little distance away, are at a loss to know 
what it is that presents the lovely sight. 
The dogwood does better planted in 
spring than in autumn, and better yet set 
out early. But do not look for a good 
growth the same season. If the Jeast 
semblance of foliage appears it is all right, 
the tree will grow, and the following season 
will see better results, : 
It has often been noted that the flora of 
Japan bears striking resemblance to that of 
our own, and this is borne out in the case 
of the dogwoods. The Japanese Oornus 
Kousa, while distinct enough from our O. 
florida to be easily recognised, bears a great 
resemblance to it. Lt blooms somewhat 
_later in the season than our species. 
A few plants of the pink dogwood grown 
on in pots for a year or two would set lots 
of flower buds, and, being a hardy, small 
tree, and so beautiful, would surely com- 
mand a good sale. And the same is true of 
tbe common white one. 
Growing “Cyclamens in strong heat can 
only end in spoiling both the flowers and 
the foliaze. 
= 
THE CHINESE DOUBLE PRIMULS-~ 
These are not so. extensively grown now 
as was the case tan years ago. I supp se 
the great improvement effected in the sinzie 
varieties and the reintroduction of tne 
stellata section are the causes of this. & 
drawback in dealing with the donble sorts 
is that they are more difficult to grow thare 
the singles, and often die wholesale. WE 
course the treatment is at fault, as while at 
one place the plants barely live, ab anothec 
they flourish grandly. I wonder how many 
collections of plants are. entirely lost every 
Season simply through mismanagement. 
few hints on the culture of double Primul rs 
will, I am sure, be appreciated by marty 
lovers of these charming winter flowerin ¢ 
greenhouse plants. . 
The warm greenhouse or conservatory 1s 
the best place for them; too much heat is 
not good, anil a very low temperature and « 
damp atmosphere are also disastrous. OlL 
plants are often infested with small grubs, 
and rot off just below the surface of the 
soil, Young plants should be procured 
anoually by the process of rooting the 
small side growths of each specimen. 
Directly the blooms fade remove the 
plants to a cool frame; cut off all bad 
leaves and place a mixture of leaf soul, 
loam, and sand in equal proportions arousd 
the old plant in such a manner that the 
lower part of the young side gcowth is 
buried in it. A uniform moisture is neces- 
sary for inducing rapid root action; and ta 
securely cover the added compost with @ 
layer of moss. Too much water would 
quickly result in injury to the plants by 
causing decay. 
Five or six. capital young plants may be 
obtained from one healthy old one, and the 
pots containing the latter should be placed 
upon ashes. During very bright weather 
put on some light material as a shading. 
At the end of six weeks or two months 
roots will have formed plentifully in the 
new soil, and it will be the right time to 
detach the side growths and repot thene 
separately. A similar compost should be 
employed, but 1. gallon of old mortar 
rubbish passed through a }-inch sieve must 
be mixed with every. busuel of it. A cook 
frame, genial moisture and temperature are 
again requisite. Indeed, frame accomme- 
dation is the best for the plants until they 
are placed in the greenhouse in autumn. 
At each reputting use the loam in & more 
lumpy and fibrous condition and always 
with old mortar incorporated with it, as 
Primulas delight in its gritty nature. If 
these instructions are followed large healthy 
plants will be the result, A small quantity 
of weak soot water may be given them, but 
I do not favor high feeding with artificials- 
The earliest plants may bo flowered in 
5 inch pots, and the later ones in & and @ 
inch ones.— GEO. GARNER. 
ROMNEYA COULTERLI. 
Tru CartrorniaAn Tree Poppy. 
English plant names are not always ap— 
propriate, any more than the cumbrous 
Tyatin or Greek ones; but a glance at the 
illustration of some flowers of the Califor— 
nian ‘ree Poppy, as Romneya Coulteri is _ 
popularly called, shows how aptly this 
