i2 
both temperatures was wrapped in parch- 
zment paper and unprinted newspaper and 
some left unwrapped. The packages used 
were barrels, 40-lb. closed’ boxes, and five- 
eighth bushel baskets. | 
The results of the experiment: show that 
Keiffer pears may be picked during a 
period of 3 weeks beginning when they are 
two-thirds grown and successfully stored 
until the holidays, or much longer if neces- 
' gary providing the fruit is handled with 
the greatest care and placed in cold storage 
-at 32 deg. F. immediately after picking. 
Pears stored 10 days after picking soon be- 
to discolor and soften at the core, 
‘Though the outside of the pears appeared 
perfectly;normal. Within 40 to 50 days 
the flesh was nearly all discolored. The 
fruit kept 3 months longer at a tempera- 
ture of 32 deg. than at 36 deg. F. It kept 
much better in small packages than in bar- 
rels. The chief advantage of ventilated 
packages seemed to be in the greater ra- 
pidity with which the fruit cools. Pears 
stored in open packages for a long time 
wilt, considerably. Closed packages are 
therefore recommended. 
Wrapped fruit kept longer than un- 
wrapped, and wrapping proved especially 
waluable as the season advanced. Nearly 50 
per cent. of unwrapped Keiffer pears had 
decayed by January 1, while those wrapped 
in unprinted newspaper and parchment 
wrappers were still im good condition. 
Little practical difference was noted in 
the relative efficiency of tissue, parchment, 
unprinted newspaper, and wax paper for 
wrapping fruits. In storing fruits for a 
Jong time a double wrapper was more effi- 
«ient than a single wrapper, a satisfactory 
«combination being unprinted newspaper 
next to the fruit with the more impervious 
paraffin wrapper outside. No ‘evidence 
was deduced from these experiments to 
show that cold storage injured the aroma 
er flavor of pears. On the contrary, the 
quality of the fruit was maintained longer 
at a temperature approaching the freezing 
point than at one any higher. 
~The results secured in these experiments 
indicate that pears should be picked before 
they mature and stored as quickly after 
picking as possible, and that the fruit 
_ should be stored at a temperature of about — 
32 deg. F. unless it is desired to ripen it _ 
up slowly at a higher temperature. Small 
packages which cool very quickly are best. 
Wrapping prolongs the life of the fruit, 
protects it from bruising, lessens wilting” 
and decay, and keeps it bright im color. 
The rapidity with which cold-storage fruit 
breaks down when placed on the market 
depends upon the degree of ripeness of the 
fruit and the condition of the weather. 
-The peaches used in the experiment 
were grown in Georgia and Connecticut. 
They were stored at temperatures of 32, 36, 
and 40 deg. respectively. Various kinds 
ef packages were used and the fruit was 
picked at 2 different degrees of ripeness. 
Equal quantities were wrapped and left 
unwrapped. ‘The results show that when 
highly colored firm fruit was placed in the 
_. storage house at 32 deg. it could be kept — 
. in prime commercial condition for 2 or 3 
\ 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
weeks. After that time the quality de- 
teriorated, though the peaches continued 
firm and bright in appearance for a month. 
Mellow fruit when stored deteriorated 
much more rapidly, and unripe fruit shriv- 
elled. At the higher temperatures of 36 
and 40 deg. the fruit ripened much more 
rapidly and reached its profitable commer- 
cial limit within 1 to 2 weeks. At the 
lower temperature the fruit kept equally 
well in all packages for about 2 weeks,after 
which that in open baskets and Georgia 
carriers began to show wilting. In 20-lb. 
boxes the fruit remained firm throughout 
the storage season. Wrapping the fruit 
proved a great protection against bruising 
in transit. Fruit stored at 32 deg. F. for 
2 to 3 weeks stood up 2 or 3 days after re- 
moval, depending on the weather. It is 
pointed out in this connection that in ship. 
ping peaches those at the top of the car are 
likely to ripen much more rapidly than . 
those in the bottom layers, and hence 
should be marketed separately. The 
chief value of cold storage in the peach inr 
dustry is likely to be found in the tempo- 
rary storage of the fruiti during an over- 
stocked market. . 
MANURING GARDEN GROUND. 
Common bracken is poor manure. Tree 
leaves when well decayed make very good 
manure, and seaweed, if halfdecayed, is - 
fair manure. But in using these things 
it is wisest to mix them in a heap, turn- 
ing them two or three times at intervals 
of a month, and at each turning adding. 
a good smother of soot. At the final 
turning, which should be a couple of weeks 
before using, add to each cartload 12 lb. 
of bone-flour (phosphate) and the same of_ 
kainit (potash). If that be well mixed with 
the heap when finally turned it rapidly 
incorporates with it, and then the whole 
may be dressed on the ground at the rate 
of a cartload to each 4 rods of ground. But 
where artificial manure alone is used, es- 
pecially in flower borders, the proportion 
of 6 lb. of the two manures named, forked 
in and at once, is not too much. But with 
that give 3 lb. of nitrate of soda per rod in 
the spring—say, end of May or in June. 
Plants cannot well take up more tian a 
certain proportion of manure, the rest be- 
ing so far waste. Give the ground a good 
dressing of stable manure once in three 
years if you can. 
Vegetable » Garden, : 
OPERATIONS FOR JUNE. 
By W. S. CamppeE.t. 
Probably the season will continue to be 
satisfactory during June, and the sowing 
and planting of all seasonable kinds 
should on no account be neglected. In 
the cold districts, except the very coldest, 
some kinds of cabbage are likely to succeed 
very well, and sometimes frost improves 
them: The Savoy and Brussels sprouts, - 
and also the seakale, although not exactly 
June 1, 1904 
a cabbage, should be grown, and instead of 
lettuce, try the endive, an excellent substi- 
tute which is likely to succeed where the 
lettuce would fail: 
When laying out a new vegetable garden 
arrange so as to keep the permanent vege- 
tables, the globe artichoke, the asparagus, 
and the rhubarb by themselves. With 
these, or rather near them, some straw- 
berries could be planted, unless it be pre- 
ferred to plant these useful fruits as edg- 
ings to the footpaths, but when used in 
this way they are sometimes more likely to 
suffer from a dry season than if planted 
in a bed to themselves. 
With the exception of strawberries, 
which should be planted at once, if not 
already set out, the permanent vegetables 
need not be planted until the winter is. 
nearly over, but the ground should be made 
ready for them. Use abundance of farm- 
yard manure unless the soil is naturally 
rich, when it may not need the application 
of any at all. Make the beds so that 
water is not likely to remain in them, but 
do not elevate the surface to any great 
extent if at all above the surrounding sur- 
face. Trenching would, of course, make 
a bed very much higher than adjoining 
untrenched land, but if you trench, trench 
the whole garden, footpaths and all, and 
then no one part will be more elevated 
than another, and all will be equally 
drained. 
Artichoke, Globe-—May be planted now 
if desired, but there need be no hurry 
about it. | Either suckers or rooted plants. 
may be used. Plant 3 ft. or considerably 
moro apart, for if the soil is rich the plants 
will probably grow to a considerable size. 
Artichoke, Jerusalem.—The tubers of 
this plant, which is quite different to the 
above, have been ready for use for some 
time. They are rather difficult to keep 
good when dug up, and the best way to- 
manage with them is to dig as required. 
When digging them up take out every little 
bit, for anything left in the ground will 
most likely grow. Towards the spring a 
planting should be made for next season’s . 
use. tn 
Broad Beans should be growing well and 
also bearing in some districts. Another 
sowing or two may be made during the 
month. 
Cabbage.—Sow a little seed to meet pro-. 
bable requirements, and plant out any~ 
strong young cabbages that are ready to 
shift. ; 
Endive.—Sow a little seed to keep up a 
supply, and plant out a few plants occa- 
sionally. : a 
Carrot.—Sow a row or two occasionally, 
and be careful to thin out well when the- 
plants are large enough to handle. Try 
Early Shorthorn, a useful kind for the: 
season. ; carey 
Leek.—Sow in a seed-bed in order to- 
raise plants for setting oub later on. If 
good-sized’ plants are already growing® 
transplant them to ground that has been 
heavily manured and well prepared. Try — 
the varieties London Flag and Imperial 
Musselberg if they are obtainable. ; 
