July 1, 1904 
Fig = 
an appearance similar to those shown in 
Figs. 10, 11, and 12; and after pruning 
operations should have the appearance of 
those shown in Figs. 18, 14, and 15 respec- 
tively. When Fig. 14 has four main arms 
and eight secondary branches, and Figs. 13 
aud 15 have each six secondary branches, 
the extreme points of which are now from 
24 to 28 in. from the trunk, it will be found 
that some of the branches are stronger than 
others, and, therefore, during the summer 
pruning the stronger growing branches 
should be kept in cheek and the weaker 
ones given more freedom when it will be 
found that the weaker ones will make up 
the ground they have lost. 
By the end of the third year the trees 
will have put on a good strong growth, and 
Fig. 16 
~will be well formed trees, as shown by Fig. 
16, and will, when cut back {as indicated, 
present a good strong foundation for the 
future tree, with sufficient fruiting wood to 
carry a crop sufficiently large for its age— 
that is, providing it is a tree that reaches 
puberty at this age. Many varieties of 
apples, pears, and other fruits will not 
arrive at the bearing staga until they are 
much older. 
FRUIT TREES, &c., IN 
MULCHING 
WINTER. 
We cannot but maintain the opinion, 
‘based on many years’ experience, that, as a 
rule (there may be exceptions, of cotrse, as 
+o every other rule), it is unnecessary, and 
very freqnently injurious, to mulch hardy 
fruit trees, Roses, etc., with manure during 
‘the winter. The practice is a common one, 
Fig, Il 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
Fig, 12 
particularly in some districts, but that does 
not prove it to be correct, by any means. 
The majority of our outdoor fruits, including 
Fig. 15 
the apple, pear, plum, cherry, &c., are per- 
fectly hardy subjects, aud consequently they 
require no protection, in principle— in fact, 
are better without it, in most cases. Beyond 
this, a mulch of manure. or anything of the 
kind, excludes from the soil around the 
trees the undoubtedly beneficial effects of 
the air, frost, etc., and in the case of a 
naturally heavy or damp staple, frequently 
induces a sour and unwholesome condition, 
which is decidedly prejudicial to healthy 
root formation and the consequent well- 
being of the tree. Again, supposing that 
nothing of this kind occurs, and the tree 
forms fresh roots freely, the tendency of the 
mulch is to draw these close up to, or pos- 
sibly right on to, the surface of the soil ; 
and when the mulch is removed, dug in, or 
blown away in the spring, leaving these 
surface roots bare, the natural and only 
consequence is that they become dried up 
or withered, and probably killed, by the 
drying winds of spring or the heat and 
frequent drought of the early summer— 
again to the detriment of the trees. Further 
still, there is nothing worse for fruit trees of 
any kind than to disturb their roots in any 
way, as by digging or forking in, however 
lightly, such a mulch, in the spring—if 
anything of the kind is done at all, it 
should be in the autumn, and as early as 
possible even then, Lastly, there can be no. 
doubt that the proper time to mulch fruit or 
rose trees, etc., if at all, isin the spring or 
early summer, and not in the winter. At 
the former season if checks evaporation, 
shields the roots from drought and hot sun, 
as well as feeding them, saves watering, 
and does good, instead of harm, in every 
way. 
TREES IN DAMP GROUND. 
When asked the best trees to plant in 
wet ground the one addressed has not an 
easy question to answer. But, in a general 
way, almost all trees will grow in wet 
ground, provided there be a good drainage, 
or enough of it that circulation of water 
tik 
goes on constantly. It is wet ground from 
stagnant water that kills trees. Our valleys 
are constant illustrations of this. Water 
may-be above ground in some seasons, 
especially in winter, yet trees grow there 
and thrive. In summer, what with the 
heat and the calls for moisture by the trees, 
the soil loses enough of the water that 
solid ground appears, into which the rovts- 
spread. Asa rule, these trees are surfave- 
rooting, as will be seen when they bluw 
over, which misfortune often overtakes 
them. Then can be seen a spread of rovte, 
many feet in length, on all sides, but of less 
than a foot in depth. It is an instructive 
sight and lesson to view such a blown-over 
tree. I have seen such trees, of immeuse 
aize, large forest trees, with roots extendiug 
in a solid mass, many feet horizontally om 
every side, but not a foot in depth. 
It is a trouble to start trees in such a 
situation. The best way is to procure 
rather small trees with good spreading. 
roots; set them almost on the surface, aud 
cover tke roots with soil procured else- 
where. A small tree will uut bluw over 
easily, and in a few years, sustained by the 
soil placed over its roots, 1t will form new 
ones, and be in a pusition tu care for itself. 
It need hardly be added that it is useless to 
expect trees to grow where water cauuot 
drain away. There must be circulation — 
“ Florists Exchange.” 
DESIGNING FRUIT TREES. 
By C. Bocur Lurrmann. 
All buds are, at an early period in their 
existence, 1n an indeterminate stage— 
that is, they may develop into flower or 
wood buds, according to the supply of sap, 
air, and light they receive. It is a common 
Jaw of nature for the sap—which is the 
sustaining and wood-forming substance of 
the tree—to make the strongest growth 
where it ascends perpendicularly. Up- 
right growth is, therefore, woody. It is 
weakness rather than strength which in- 
duces fruitfulness, and herein lies the ciue 
to a profitable design. It lies between 
coarse strength and extreme weakness. _ 
As upright growth is usually too strong 
to bear fruit, so all wood at a sharp angle 
from the perpendicular to the horizontal 
and dependent is more and more inclined 
to be fruitful, owing to the more moderate 
supply of sap resting about tne buds, and 
the instinctive weakness of the part. 
If upright growth is to bear fruit, it 
must be light. The trunk being the 
medium of supply to the super - growth, 
branches placed directly over it are invari- 
ably the strongest, the rule being that they 
weaken according to the angle at whieh 
they stand from the perpendicular. In 
an economically designed standard fruit 
tree this law is reversed, the strongest 
branches’ ranging on the outside, the 
others weakening in regular order as they 
near the centre. By adopting this plan 
one secures a permanently shapely and - 
highly profitable tree, as, where the frame- 
work is strong and broad, no difficulty 
exists in preserving an abundant supply of 
fruiting wood throughout the entire head ; 
but if, on the other hand, light branches 
are encouraged on the outside, they fruit 
prematurely—the strong centre branches 
