October 1, 1904 
of plants, and one that has often been urged 
upon farmers and others. It tends to keep 
the ground cool in summer and warmer in 
winter, besides clearing the land of weeds. 
Zoo many shoots should not be allowed to 
grow ona plant; five are plenty, and the 
flowers will be finer in consequence; also 
keep the plants from flowering till within a 
fortnight of a show taking place. 
WATERING, MANURING, AND SHADING. 
When the warm weather comes on a 
zood watering once a week is beneficial, 
matil the flowers which are intended for 
exhibition begin to expand. Give about 
#he same time a good mulch of rotten horse 
manure. Stimulants can also be applied in 
the form of liquids‘ or in‘a dry state. For 
aliquid, cow manure is safest and good, 
making it like weak coffee, applying once 
or-twice a week. Other manures can be 
used in a dry state, such as blood, fowls’, 
soot, and Peruvian guano, but very 
sparingly! They should not be put too 
elose tothe plants, afterwards stirring the 
soil.or mulch; at the same time give a 
good watering. Quantities must be left to 
the cultivator, who ought to know whether 
his soil requires little or much artificial 
manuring, though, I think, if the soil is 
made ‘well in the first place, and a good 
anulch Jater on, it is all that is required to 
dave healthy plants. Shading is some- 
times wanted to make the flowers come to 
time. ‘This can be done by partially cover- 
ing the plant with pieces of cardbosrd, so 
as to prevent the sun striking down on the 
flowers. It is also a good plan to put some 
gras3-clippings under the plants to keep 
the flowers clean. 
FERTILISING. 
The time to do this is from August to 
September, choosing nice weather. It is 
very simple, merely taking off the bottom 
petal of the flower you intend to work from 
and placing it over the lower petal of the 
parent, then under the stigma you will find 
plenly of pollen at base of petal, which can 
@ worked on the stigma by friction. Study 
the quality you are working for, whether it 
be substance, shape, smoothness, or size. 
Take flowers of as near the same age as 
possible, and when done mark the flowers 
by tying a piece of raffia round the stem ; 
also take care the pods do not get too 
brown, or they will burst, and the seeds 
will be lost. ; 
DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS, 
The Pansy is very often attacked with 
mildew. The best remedy is dusting with 
sulphur before the dew is off the plants. 
Red spider appears during dry weather. 
Sulphur will kill these. And at the same 
time keep the ground and plants moist by 
syring ng overhead. Green fly gets into 
the points of shoots and disfigures the 
buds. Spraying with kerosene emulsion 
will kill them before the plants come into 
flower. Sparrows do a lot of damage to 
the young buds and shoots by eating them. 
A good preventive is to stretch black cotton 
across the beds at intervals of two feet and 
one foot from the ground, but*I fird it 
aather awkward getting about. 
STAGING FOR EXHIBITION. 
A good exhibitor will always stage his 
flowers or plants to the best advantage, 
Jknowing that good setting up is a point 
i 
oom ol 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. | 7 
with the judges. Now, at our shows I do 
not think the cut flowers are shown as well 
as they might be, for instead of having a 
flat box they would be better in an inclined 
one, so as to be able to see the flowers with- 
out so much leaning over. Again, flowers 
would look better set up in their own 
foliage instead of the white formal collars 
now used. If we are to continue the collars, 
the best adapted for Pansies are two inches 
for shows and three inches for fancies, of a 
circular form, having a key-shaped hole in 
centre a quarter of an inch over, the let-in 
to be a half-inch long by an eighth wide. 
POINTS. rer 
Last, but not least, are the points of a 
Pansy, and on this subject I am inclined to 
believe some good may come, if there were 
rules prepared for our schools showing the 
standard points of animals, poultry, flowers, 
and fruit, to be taught to the higher classes 
before leaving school, who would thereby 
have a knowledge in after life how to 
choose the best. It is often remarked, 
‘‘what a beautiful flower,” simply because 
it is large. This is a mistaken idea, as all 
points cover size in a Pansy and in other 
florist flowers. In passing, I know practical 
gardeners who argue there is no difference 
between a show and a fancy Pansy, yet 
they will allow it in the Pelargonium, 
Dahlia, and others, all of which were 
classed by the florists. There are three 
classes in show Pansies, viz., white grounds, 
yellow grounds, and selfs. The selfs com- 
prise dark, white, and yellow. These 
should have a dense blotch on the lower 
petal, either small or large, and just show- 
ing in the two upper ones; it must be well 
defined, without runonings. In white or 
yellow grounds the color of belting must be 
the same on all the petals. ‘This applies to 
the ground. colors also, which can have a 
wide or narrow field, but not to have irre- 
gularities or flushings, to be of a circular 
form, and the blotch to be darker than the 
belting. 
Fancy Pansies have a blotch nearly cover- 
ing the lower petals and two upper ones. 
The selfs are the same as the shows, ex- 
_ cept this difference ; then come white, yel- 
low, and other bands on the lower petals, 
with blue, purple, ruby, plum, and various 
colors on the top petals, laced and other 
sorts, - 
In Pansies the flowers should be of a 
leather-like texture, circular in form, quite 
smooth, eye well defined, blotch to be 
dense, colors clear and regular, and to be 
large, not less than an inch and a-half for 
shows, and two inchés for fancies. 
I have not dealt with the potting of 
Pansies, as I have had very little practice 
in this part; nor have mentioned violas, 
but their cultivation is very similar to the 
Pansy. 
VIOLETS, AND VIOLET CULTURE. 
+ BY HORM; 
The sweetest flower that grows, its deli- 
cate perfume and soft shades loved by all. 
There are those who express a preference 
for either the carnation or the rose when 
offered their choice, but when a bunch of 
perfect Violets is offered them the softer, 
loving feeling of man, or child, is instantly 
appealed to. ase 
Look over the gardens, large or small, in. 
the home of the rich man or of the poor, 
and the Violet will be found, and yet this 
flower so generally loved and usually care- 
fully cultivated, is so little understood that 
failures in its cultivation are more often 
met with than success. 
“My Violets grow well, but do not 
bloom,” is the usual complaint. “Where 
have you planted them?’ “On the north 
side of the house, of course—so they may 
be well shaded.” Quite right for summer 
growth, but quite wrong for winter bloom. 
The Violet loves a medium, shady spot dur- 
ing the hot weather, but an open space in 
winter and spring, when the blossoms 
come. 
If you have a space six or eight feet, 
north or east of a fenlce or hedge row, plant 
out a row or two of Violets—this will give 
a happy medium of light and shade. The 
soil—any good sandy loam ; in fact, any soil 
if well mulched with old manure or straw. 
Never expect good results from outside 
runner plants. In taking up a bunch of 
old plants, select only the inner and strong- 
er plants, discarding all the outer and smal- 
ler ones. 
Plant one foot apart in the row, be care- 
ful not to cover crown, either when plant- 
ing or in after cultiyation; do not hoe 
deeply near the plant, as the Violet feeds 
close to the surface. 
During the summer months water about 
once a week if soil is loamy and well 
mulched, otherwise two or three times will 
be required, at 
As to variettes—in the double varieties. 
—Marie Louise is the standard double 
blue, not so large as Farquahar, but more 
satisfactory for garden. culture. 
Swanley White is the most perfect, free- 
blooming, double white. 
Single varieties are very numerous, but 
only a few are adapted to our garden cul- 
ture. 
The old Czar or Russian Violet for the 
sweet darker one. California for a good 
all-round purpose . sort-—hardy—free 
blooming and generally satisfactory; was 
the largest of the long stemmed varieties 
until the superb “Princess of Wales” was 
introduced five years ago ; it is often called 
the pansy formed Violet; long-stemmed, 
large, open, and very fragrant blossoms ; 
leaves very large and soft. This is the 
standard cut flower Violet. 
Violets respond to fertilization. I use 
a special mixture of commercial fertiliser 
with most satisfactory results—and was 
able to pick bunches of “Princess of 
Wales.” 
Violet discases and enemies are: Leaf 
spot, the great Violet disease; it cas be 
checked by spraying with Paris Green or 
Bordeaux mixture. This remedy if ap- 
plied several times during the season will 
also kill snails and slugs which are so fond 
of leaf and flower. 
The shell. snail is bdcoming a garden 
pest. Go out early in the morning when 
