October 1, 1904 
‘sibly do if neglected as regards pinching. 
‘The weakest shoots are the right ones to 
‘remove—those which do not bear flowers, 
but, if left, will cause overcrowding and 
_ prevent those which are strong from 
maturing. Where there are plenty of 
robust shoots, they should be laid in posi- 
tion while quite young, as, if left till they 
are hard and stiff, it will be a difficult 
matter to fix them just where they are 
wanted. 
Most of the rapid growing climbers, such 
as Honeysuckles, Roses, and Jasminums, 
soon become bare at the base unless pro- 
perly trained; and the disbudding of 
branches nearer the top of the plant will 
induce others to grow, and that more 
Strongly at the base. When dealing with 
young plants we generally fasten every new 
shoot to the wall or fence. If the growths 
are few in number this practice is quite 
right, but not so where many shoots appear 
—a little disbudding will help to lay a 
proper foundation. G. R. Kyourr. 
S.A. Horticultural & Floricultural 
Society. 
FLOWER SHOW, 
TOWN HALL, ADELAIDE, 
THURSDAY, October 20, 1904. 
Prize Schedules now ready. 
SUBSCRIPTIONS 
One Guinea, Member’s Pass and Six Tickets 
for each Show, 
10/6, Momber’s Pass and Two Tickets for each 
Show. 
W. CHAMPION HACKET'T, Hon. Sec. 
The Ox¢hard. 
——— Oe 
OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER. 
By W. J. ALLEN. 
All pruning, and most of the winter 
spraying of deciduous trees, should be com- 
pleted. It must be borne in mind that 
trees must not be sprayed with the lme, 
sulphur, and salt solution after they are | 
out in leaf or bloom, as this spray is very 
severe on any foliage, and should never be 
used except during the winter and before 
the buds burst in the spring. This spray 
helps to keep in check the various scales 
which. attack deciduous trees, particularly 
the San Jose scale, and also keeps the 
trunks and branches of the trees free from 
moss and lichens. 
Under no circumstances should trees be 
sprayed with any solution while they are 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
in bloom, else considerable damage may 
be done, but they may be sprayed a week 
or ten days before they come into bloom, 
and again as soon as the fruit is well set. 
The early part of this month is a good 
time to apply commercial fertilisers. 
It is well to complete the ploughing of 
‘all orchards as early as possible, especially 
where green manures have been: grown, in 
order that the latter may rot before the 
dry weather sets in. This, of course, is of 
more importance in the interior than on 
the coast, where there are usually good 
rains from time to time throughout the 
summer. In the latter case, however, it is 
rather risky to postpone the ploughing: too 
late, as occasionally the rain fails us; and 
should there happen to be a crop of tares or 
weeds growing among the trees the ground 
soon becomes hard and dry, and it will not 
be long before the trees begin to wilt. It 
ig well, therefore, to keep the work up to 
time, so that should the season turn out a 
dry one you are not caught napping. 
The spring planting of citrus fruits may 
be proceeded with as early as possible this 
month. Whenever possible, choose cloudy 
or cool weather, and observe every precat- 
tion to keep the roots from becoming ex- 
posed to the wind or sun, as there are more 
trees lost by careless handling at time of 
planting than from any other cause. 
Trees will commence to grow this month, 
and towards the latter end it may be found 
advisable to go over them and rub off all 
the young growth which is not needed to 
make the crown of the tree, leaving buds 
starting from different points around the 
barrel of the tree where it is desired that 
the limbs should start from, which are to 
form the crown. Never allow two to start 
from the same place, keeping them at least 
4 in. apart, radiating around the tree. 
Citrus trees may be pruned this month. 
Grafting of nursery stock trees and vines 
may be carried out this month. Vines are 
best grafted just as the buds are about to 
burst, and after the grafting of deciduous 
trees has been completed. 
WALNUTS. 
The Mandshurian walnut (Juglans mand_ 
shurica) is a native of America, and is one 
of the hardiest of the family. In districts 
too cold for the common, walnut this species 
is recommended. It has foliage of unusually 
large size, and is a very ornamental tree. 
The leaves are 3 ft. in length, and the leaf- 
lets measure 7 in. in length by 3 in. in 
width. The nuts are inferior to the com- 
mon walnut, but they ripen earlier, and 
from six to thirteen are borne in a cluster. 
They are eight-angled, and deeply pitted. 
‘Tt would probably resist our hot Australian 
summers much better than the common 
walnut. 
The black walnut (Juglans nigra) is one 
of the noblest and most useful trees we 
have. It will thrive in almost any kind 
of soil, is of quick growth, and when 
planted thickly makes fine straight timber. 
When planted singly or in very exposed 
situations, the wind frequently breaks the 
branches. It will grow toa height of 
2 ; 
100 ft., and sometimes: with a straight” 
trunk without a branch for 65 ft. From 
10 ft. to 12 ft. is not an uncommon cireum—~ - 
ference for the black walnut stem. I 
has been stated that grass will not grow 
underneath this tree, but such a statement 
is erroneous. It produces its nuts in clus 
ters of from two fruits to five and six fe- . 
geteher. It would likely pay to grow the 
black walnut from a commercial point ef 
view, for its timber alone; its nuts are ak 
no value. 
A Japanese walnut named J. cordiformis: 
is stated to be a very handsome tree. It 
has very large leaves, which carry about 
fifteen oblong leaflets, and these are cover— 
ed on the lower side with a rusty-coleored 
down. It flowers very freely; its nuts 
have a singular appearance, they are flat 
tened, tapered at one end, and somewhat: 
cordate at the best. Its grand foliage, 
long male catkins, and striking racemose. 
clusters of fruits will render it ai great ac- 
quisition. 
The American “butter-nut” (J. cinerea} 
is a beautiful and vigorous-growing tree, 
a native of the North American woods, 
where it attains a height of 100 ft., with a 
trunk 2 ft. to 3 ft. in diameter. The leaf- 
stalks and young wood are covered with 
brownish’ down, especially underneath. 
Each fruit is over 2 in. long when. fully 
grown. The kernel is very full of oil, and 
soon becomes rancid. 
Juglans Californica grows wild on the 
coast region of California. It is some- 
times found in a shrubby state, but geme- 
rally in specimens 40 ft. to 60 ft. high. Its 
value as a species for cultivation is not pre- 
nounced. It is in cultivation in England. 
tts nuts are very slightly furrowed. 
The most distinct of all walnuts is J. 
rupestris. It is of dwarf, shrubby habit, 
and has small, finely-cut leaves, which are 
from 6 in. to 8 in. long, and these consist 
of as many as 11} pairs of leaflets, these 
being narrow-lanceolate, toothed, and 1} in. 
to3 in. long. The nuts are spherical, and 
about # in. in diameter. 
Of the common walnut (J. regia) there 
are several varieties which come inte 
bearing earlier and are of dwarfer habit 
than the species. The “Dwarf Prolific.” 
“Preparturiens,” and “La Fertile’ are the 
more common kinds. A most noteworthy _ 
kind is the fern-leaved variety, generally 
known as laciniata, but also known. as fili- 
cifolia and heterophylla. A curious variety 
named monophylla has the leaflets reduce® 
to one very large one and a pair of small 
ones, and sometimes even. the latter are 
absent. Of twice the size of those of the 
ordinary kind are the nuts of a variety 
named maxima; its leaves are very large 
and striking. The common walnut is a 
native of the region between the Caucasian: 
and Himalayan Mountains, and has been 
cultivated in Britain for many centuries. 
probably from the time of the Romans. 
When possible walnuts should be 
raised from seed, and placed in the posi- 
tions where they are to remain as soon as 
possible. The nuts should not be allowed 
to get dry before sowing; it is better ta 
