42 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
November'l, ‘1904 
as well known to the nurserymen who have 
ane handling of them. Take, for example, 
seeds with a pulpy covering, such as the 
Bolly, magnolia, silver thorn, cherry, and 
the like. This pulp needs being freed from 
ithe seeds as soon as can be after the seeds 
are ripe, and then the seed proper placed 
an moist earth or sown. At times the seeds, 
pulp on, are thrown into a heap to rot. 
This should not be, at least, not for any 
fength of time. The chemical changes 
iu decaying pulp act injuriously on the 
seeds, destroying them oftener than not. 
A soaking of the pulpy seeds for a day or 
so, to soften the outer covering, is well, to 
be followed by immediate washing. The 
sewing of the seeds, pulp on, is sometimes 
practised, but it is not to be recommend- 
ed; getting the pulp off first is better. 
It is an erroneous idea that so long as 
#he pulp, or outer covering, is on the seeds 
‘hey are in good condition for sowing. Pos- 
gsiubly in some cases it may be so, but seeds 
so kept, say from autumn until spring. 
have rot proved satisfactory subjects for 
sowing. After a good many years of ex- 
perience. with seeds, I consider the best of 
alll ways tobe the immediate cleaning away 
@f the pulp, and the mixing of the seeds 
with damp earth until sown. 
Many would think that such bony seeds 
zs those of dogwood, cherry, plum, peach, 
and the like, would not lose vitality 
quickly; but they do, if not kept moist. 
“The soaking of such seeds in water to bring _ 
#hem back to life is futile; if too much 
divied, they are done for. PES 
' In the case of the holly it is the custom 
an Europe to throw them in heaps mixed 
with soil, to rot the pulp; in these heaps 
Shey remain a year. _ The action of the 
seal on the sceds no doubt prevents injury 
dxom the decaying pulp, but it would be 
etter to save the time ocupied in the rot- 
ftimy. by washing it off after a few days’ 
soaking in water, : 
The admonition must be given to pre- 
erve moist all seeds, excepting those of a 
ecniferous nature, from the time they are 
ogathered until sown. With many, and pro- 
‘ably nearly all, the keeping of the seeds 
“Gn a slightly moist: building would answer ; 
‘Sat it would not be the equal of mixing 
#hem with soil: : 
- ULTIVATION OF THE PELAR- 
cease * GONTUM, 
By Joun Eversst. » 
I will endeavor to jot down a few facts 
earned from my own experience. They 
‘fare a valuable and hardy class of plant, and 
“I think there ‘is scarcely any one class so 
“showy in its various coléf¥ or so interest- 
; ‘as a collection as thege- when: in bloom. 
~ class them together as Shows, Fancies, 
Small-flowering, and Regals..: They all re- 
squire about the sanie treatment in ‘cultiva- 
“%bion, but most of the Fanciés’are tle easiest 
%o manage; they are the most flomferous, 
but nét so showy in themselves as the other 
warieties. To make it properly understood 
* @ think it best to begin with thd soils @ I 
wonsider that the soil best adapted for Pel- 
gargoniums should consist of one-third good 
. 
turfy loam pulled in pieces; black soil or 
peat (being a substitute for leaf-mould) ; 
and one-third well-rotted cow manure, with 
a dash or two of chemical manure, which 
gives a rich healthy green look. When 
these are well mixed together the soil is 
ready for use. I do not use sand, as it is 
not wanted; and another reason is that 
the tender roots in working through sharp 
sand get bruised. There is this objection 
to sand, that the soil, being open, it re- 
quires so much more watering, which runs 
the strength out of it. Many gardeners 
are‘ of opinion that one potting is sufficient, 
but I believe in second potting. Pick out 
nice sturdy young plants from the rooted 
cuttings in. 4-in. pots, and for the first shift 
they should be put in 6-in. pots. See that 
‘the drainage is good before setting the 
plant in the pot ; put in a little rough moss 
or cocoanut fibre on the dramage, then 
throw in some soil ; cram down well, add a 
little more loose soil, and then set the plant 
in. Itshould be sufficiently below the rim 
of the pot'to allow a layer of soil over the 
ball, leaving J in. for watering. A ram- 
ming-stick should be used, one end being 
flat and the other round and level. Palar- 
goniums should be potted very firmly. The 
second shift should be into eight or nine 
inch pots, thoroughly cléan, these being 
large enough to grow on,a good plant. Use 
the same soil. Before placing in the plant 
throw in a handful of bonedust, as this is 
an excellent thing for bringing color in the 
flower. See that the plants are well 
ready for their potting up. They should 
not be left to get at all pot-bound; but 
if pot-bound separate the roots carefully 
with a pointed stick, so that the plant: will 
not lose much time in getting a fresh start. 
After this potting good attention should be 
paid to the tying-out and stopping of the 
shoots. Short sticks can be used for a 
a time, and then a wire frame can be plac- 
ed around the pot. If this is properly 
carried out, there are not many sorts which 
would require the knife much the next 
season. Smoke them once a week if there 
are any signs of fly. 
Warerinc.—This is an important mat- 
ter, and is not always properly managed. 
There are many bad effects caused through 
“mistakes in watering. If over-watered 
plants become very sickly, and remain at a 
standstill for some time, and the foliage 
becomes spotted and unhealthy, some 
growers tap each pot with the knuckle, and 
it is astonishing how soon one gets used 
to the ring, and is enabled to tell whether 
the plant requires watering. White on, the 
foliage is often’ caused by sudden. changes, 
and by the water resting on the- foliage 
when the sun is shining powerfully on the 
plants, or too strong manure water will 
have the same effect. Do not apply 
m>nure water for a week or so after freshly 
potting, especially when potted the first 
time. - Care-should be taken when plants 
are setting their bloom to be very sparing 
with manure water, ax when hurried on in 
this stage the pips will turn yellow and | 
drop, or when opened they will be deform- 
ed. When the plants are in bloom dis- 
continue manure watering altogether, as 
_the pores open. 
fany, calico, &e. 
high. 
varieties. 
the fowers will last much longer; syring- 
ing overhead once or twice a week late in 
the afternoon keeps the foliage clean and 
Choose a dry day for 
syringing. The house most suitable for 
growing is a low span-roofed one; the 
plants being close to tha glass, they can be 
grown dwarf.. If beds or benches are not 
high enough for the plants they can be 
raised on pots, and also when coming into 
bloom can be lowered to draw the flower 
well above the foliage if required. Allow 
plenty air night and day. 
Suapinc.—We cannot get all through 
the season without shading a little. There 
are different shades used—whitewash, tif- 
Calico with rollers is a 
good shade, as it can be worked to suit 
the weather. There is one great fault in 
using blinds on houses—they are rolled 
down flat on the glass, the circulation of 
air is stopped, and the glass becomes very 
hot and hurtful to the plants. I should re- 
commend to have rollers mounted on a rod 
about 9 in. above the glass, giving space for 
air between the blind and the glass. After 
these plants go out of flower they can be 
turned outside. Choose rather a shady 
vlace for a few days, and then afterwards 
expose them in the sun, still giving them 
water. They are often neglected and 
dried off so suddenly that many die. Pelar-. 
goniums should be cut back early in-March, 
and they are then ready for a new start. 
The cutting back should be done with care. 
Where they have been allowed to grow up. 
rank shoots they have a hard struggle to 
break when they should be only 6 or 7 in. 
When a plant has been properly 
grown and tied out the knife need only be 
used to thin out and tip back shoots. This 
should be done when the wood is thoroughly 
ripe and the weather still and dry; put 
them in a shadehouse, and sprinkle light- 
ly twice a day until they break nicely. 
Then they can be brought into the house, 
and will soon be ready for shaking out and, 
fresh potting. The roots can be pruned 
back a little where they are strong. Pelar- 
goniums are easily propagated by cuttings, 
and some of the weaker kinds of the 
Fancies are better grafted on the Show 
‘To make good plants this 
should be done after being cut. down, when 
the sap is rising. There are many good 
voints to consider if intending to show at 
exhibitions. Some,sorts are not worthy, 
having a bad habit of growth or being shy 
in flowering. The pollen should be re- 
moved to keep the flower clean, and some 
gum dropped into the calyx to keep the 
petals from. dropping. - 
GROWING PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
Although it is proverbially lost trouble 
to argue upon matters of taste, no culti- 
vated eye will do other than admit that. 
the most charming form of every plant is 
that with which unaided Naiture has en- 
dowed it in congenial habitats, where it. 
can fully develop itself. Under such condi- 
tions we can see with what exquisite nicety 
all its parts have been shaped and adjust- 
ed to further the vital purposes of growth 
and reproduction, and by studying this, 
