6 
%e taken in such soils to drain when water 
as likely to lie on or near the surface. 
Still, any deep soil, with a cool subsoil, suits 
them well. A light surface soil, with 
dimestone or sand beneath, will grow good 
Roses, with an abundance of manure on the 
surface, and, dug in annually, but any ordi- 
nary garden soil will grow them to perfec- 
tion if properly cared for. 
Tn choosing a situation for a roseny on a 
jarge scale let it be well open, so that the 
plants may always have a free current of 
air. An open field is suitable for them, 
sheltered round with a hedge of some sort; 
and the Dog Rose, Boursault, and Sweet 
Briar are well adapted for such a purpose ; 
so that you may have all Roses, or Roses 
+o shelter Roses, on a small scale. They do 
svell planted in double or single rows by the 
sides of walks, in open beds, or on lawns, 
Xe. Some people plant their Roses under 
some tree or shrub, and wonder why they 
alo not come to perfection. They will not 
siand such a situation, for the reason that 
they are robbed of their soil or food by 
the roots of the tree under which they are 
planted, and also by the want of a free 
gurrent of air. I say give to the Queen of 
Flowers the best situation at command, and 
you will be rewarded by her beauty. 
x PROPAGATION BY SEED. 
“he hips of all varieties will be ripe in 
May or the beginning of June. They 
should then be gathered and kept entire in 
x flower pot filled with dry sand, carefully 
guarded from mice. In August they should 
be broken to pieces by hand, and sown in 
Heds, boxes, or seed-pans, the latter two 
mot too shallow—say from eight to nine 
finches deep. Use a rich compost of rotten 
manure, loam, or peat, with plenty of sand, 
wr an equal part of each of the above. Cover 
the seeds to the depth of about half an inch. 
Hf in a bed, the same compost may he work- 
sed im near the surface. After sowing, let 
tne beds or boxes be exposed to light and 
air, watering when necessary, and shading 
on very hot days. The seeds will germinate 
and show themselves in September. When 
they have formed three or four leaves, ex- 
glusive of their sced leaves, they may be 
earefully raised, put into small pots, placed 
am # frame or pit, and shaded when neces- 
sary. If they are wanting to flower early 
they may be repotted in larger pots to grow 
#hem on, and in some cases they will flower 
the following season. 
ur climate being so well adapted to the 
Rose’s seed-bearing capability ought to 
produce some extra fine varieties if care 
is taken in hybridising. It requires some 
svaichfulness to do this at the proper time ; 
af too soon, the petals will be injured in 
forcing them open ; and in the hot weather 
in September and October, if delayed only 
-an hour or two, the anthers will be found 
to have shed their pollen. In order to as- 
«ertain precisely when the pollen is in a fit 
state for transmission, a few of the anthers 
should be gently pressed with the finger 
and thumb. If the yellow dust adheres 
to them the operation may be performed. 
Wt requires close examination and some 
practise to know when the flower to be ope- 
xated on ia in ai fit: state to receive the pol- 
— 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
len. Asarule the flowers ought to be in the 
same state of expansion, or, in other words, 
about the same age. A camel’s hair brush 
is almost the best thing to take the pollen 
from one flower to another with, the hybri- 
diser selecting the varieties he wishes to 
operate on. I wish some of our amateurs 
would take the work in hand, as I am sure 
they would be well repaid for their trouble. 
PropaGation OF Roses. 
There are four other methods of propa- 
gation applicable to Roses besides by seed, 
viz., by layers, cuttings, grafting, and bud- 
ding. 
Propagation py Lavyerine is very useful 
with some varieties, such as Noisettes, Tea- 
scented, and other climbers, as some are 
difficult to strike from cuttings unless 
under very favorable circumstances. About 
the middle of November the shoots will be 
about 18 inches to 30 inches in length. 
From these the leaves should be cut off 
close to the shoot with a very sharp knife, 
beginning at the base to about two-thirds 
of the length of the shoot. The shoot must 
then be brought to the ground, so as to be 
able to judge in what place the hole must 
be made to receive it. This may be made 
large enough to hold a small quantity of 
compost of rotten manure and sharp sand 
in equal quantities, well mixed. The shoot 
must then be tongued—that is, the knife 
introduced just below a bud, and brought 
upwards so as to cut about halfway 
through. This must be done at the back 
of the shoot, not by any means in the front 
or in the bend, so that the tongue does 
not close. To make certain of this a small 
piece of stick may be introduced to keep it 
open. Much nicety is required to have 
the tongue at the upper end of the shoot, 
so ag not to be in the part which forms the 
bend or bow, as it is of consequence that 
it should be within three or four inches of 
the surface. The tongued part must be 
placed in the centre of the compost, and a 
moderate-sized stone placed on the surface 
of the ground to keep the layer in its place. 
They should be watered in the summer, and 
will be ready to dig up in the following 
June. 
PropeaGatTron BY GRAFTING.—There are 
many ways of grafting Roses. The most 
eligible is the common whip grafting ; but 
T have not found grafting suitable for this 
climate. It is far too tedious as compared 
with budding, and does not produce such 
good results. 
Propacarion sy Curries.—Cuttings 
should be planted in May and June. Sup- 
pose the cuttings to be from eight to ten 
inches long. All the leaves may be re- 
moved from the lower end—that is, the 
end which is to be put in the ground. Cut 
at just under the bud with a sharp knife 
square, or a ttle on the slant. Prepare a 
bed or border of good free soil. If at all 
inclined to clay, pub some sharp sand at the 
bottom of the trench, which will materially 
assist them in making roots. 
Plant the 
cuttings two-thirds under the ground, and 
water them well during the hot season. 
Some varieties root much more freely than 
others, and on the plains failures ara very 
frequent. The hills are more suitable, 
December 1, 1904 
especially in some of the gullies. where 
water is near the surface. 
Propagation sy Buppine.—This systeny. 
I have found to be far preferable to any 
other. Cuttings, even if successful, take 
at icast two years to make fair plants; by 
budding a good plant may be obtained in _ 
four months, provided that the stocks are 
in a healthy state. The operation of bud- 
ding is very easy to do, but difficult to de- 
scribe. However, I will endeavor to de- 
scribe it. A longitudinal cut, not so deep as 
to penetrate into the wood, but merely 
through the bark, should be made in the 
clear part of the shoots, thus |; then a 
transverse cut, thus —, at the top of the 
incision. It will then look thus 1. The 
bark on both sides of the incision must be- 
opened with the flat handle with which 
the budding knife is provided, and the bud 
inserted. Some recommend the thin piece: 
of wood adhering to the bud to be left in. 
I always take it out. I have found from 
experience that the buds are not so liable 
to be blown off if the wood is taken “out: 
To simplify this matter, take a rose shoot. 
with its buds, cut off the leawes, leaving the 
footstalka about an inch in length, and_ 
then cut off a very thin slice of bark about 
an inch long, which should have a bud in 
the ceutre. This slice of bark will have a 
layer of thin wood inside, which should be 
carefully removed. The bud should then 
be inserted. commencing at the transverse: 
eut, and thrust gently down. When the- 
bud is inserted cut off with your knife a 
piece from the upper end of the plate— 
that is, the piece of bark with the bud at- 
tached—so that it fits closely to the trans- 
verse cut ; then bind it up firmly, but leave 
the bud showing out, with cotton twist 
Budding may be commenced in November 
and performed as late as the latter end of 
March. In about three weeks after bud- 
ding the ligatures may be removed. All the 
branches not budded must be cut: off from: 
the stock cleanly about the time the 
ligatures are removed, and the budded 
shoots shortened to within two or three eyes. 
of the inserted bud. This management of 
budding Roses is applicable to standards 
of all heights as well as dwarfs. Of stocks 
for budding on there are several kinds used. 
—the Manetta, Sweet Briar, Banksia, Dog 
Rose, ke. T find the Dog Rose to be the 
very best for this climate, struck from cut- 
tings from one to four feet in length, and 
from half an inch to one inch in diameter, 
taking care to cut off all eyes at the bottom 
to prevent suckers, which are always ai 
trouble. 
Cuntiyatron anp Prunine.—aAll classes 
of Roses delight in soil well manured. They 
will stand a good dressing of well-prepared 
atable manure twice in the season, viz., one 
in the autumn—say in May—as a surface 
dressing. Let it remain on the surface 
until the latter end of August, when it 
should be forked in; bonedust may be used 
with it to advantage. Fork over the 
ground again about the middle of Septem-. 
ber, after which give your plants a good 
thick coat of mulching of moderately rough 
stable manure. This will keep the soil’ 
cool and damp, thus saving watering for 
