4 THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. February 1, 1905 
knife, and not to damage the flower bud. 
Begin at the top.of the shoot, so that if the 
flower bud is injured another shoot may be 
allowed to grow, which, when matured, will 
only produce flower buds. These should be 
thinned, leaving only the central one in the 
point of the shoot, which is known as the 
terminal bud, and which, in-some varieties, 
produces the best flower, being higher 
colored and not so full as those from the 
crown bud. After the crown buds are 
grown as large as a pes, liquid manure 
should be applied to achieve the best pos-— 
sible results. Cow or horse manure liquid, - 
with, occasionally, a solution of sulphate of 
ammonia at rate of 1 oz. to 4 gallons of 
water, is the feeding generally used by 
successful exhibitors ; which feeding should 
cease as soon as the blooms are half 
developed. If these suggestions are carried 
out, and a few plants are grown naturally 
near by, it must bring conviction to the 
grower that there is a deal in intense cul- 
ture, and the principle will probably be ap- 
‘plied more generally than at present. _ 
_ Dahlias should be securely staked, and 
the growths tied up as they develop, 
thinning-and regulating the shoots to pre- 
vent crowding. If fine flowers are desired 
the buds should be thinned also, and liquid 
manure applied as recemmended for Chry- 
santhemums, together with a liberal supply” 
of water. Should red spider attack the 
plants, the symptom of which attack is a 
change of color in the foliage as if it was 
scorched, the plants should be thoroughly 
and frequently hosed or sprayed with 
water, specially on the under parts of the 
foliage. 
After Carnations have finished blooming 
the old flower shoots should be removed 
and the plants layered. This is an easy 
and certain method of propagation, whereby 
strong plants will be available for autumn 
planting, that will bloom freely the follow- 
ing spring. Carnations should be replaced 
every second year, in fact, some varieties, 
such as ‘*H. Plumridge,” the best dark 
crimson tree Carnation, are replaced each 
season by many florists. The ‘tree’ or 
“perpetual” section are by far the more 
popular and useful than the spring bloom- 
ing kinds, flowering throughout winter 
when bloom is specially valuable. The 
blooming period may be oxtended by 
cutting some of the plants back in the 
summer. 
Roses should be thinned, any weak 
shoots in the middle of the plants being 
removed, and shoots that have flowered 
shortenel back to a good bud. A good 
watering about the end of February will 
start the plants into strong growth, and en- 
sure a good autumn flowering, Many of 
the finest Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses are 
seen at their best in autumn. 
Ground should be prepared for planting 
Daffodils and other winter and spring 
blooming bulbs and corms. The soil 
should be deeply worked, and some well- 
rotted manure mixed through the lower 
portion. 
A batch of Gladioli may be planted in 
February for autumn blooming. These 
will not come into flower until the hot 
winds are over, and are very effective. 
Among the finest autumn flowering bul- 
bous plants are the improved types of 
Amaryllis belladonna, of. which blanda? 
magnifica, and major are probubly the best. 
Brunsvigia multiflora and Josephine aro 
magnificent in bloom, and are closely allied 
to the Amaryllis.. i 
Lycoris aurea {golden yellow) and radia‘a 
(crimson) are specially beautiful, as are 
several Nerines. 
Other bulbous plants that may be planted 
about end of February are Ixia, Lachenalia, 
Watsonia, and Tulipa. Watsonia Alba is 
the best of the genus. 
finest tulip grown here. : : 
Ranunculus aud Anemone roots may be 
planted in February. Re Re 
Seeds of Pansy may be sown in boxes. 
They must be well shaded and watered; 
and if planted out in March will bloom 
early and continuously during winter. 
Iceland Poppy may be sown, and treated 
as the Pansy. There are several shades of 
color in. these Poppies; and they. are 
splendid for table decoration. 
Sow seeds of Balsam, Calcedlaria, Cinew 
raria, Cyclamen, Pansy, Phlox, Primula,’ 
Mimulus, Petunia, Godetia, Iboris, and 
Lobelia ; and make cuttings of Antirrhin- 
ums, Pentstemons, Carnations, Petunias, 
Zonal Pelargoniums. 
o 
BUDDING ROSES. ; 
Tt ‘ig not at all difficult to secure the pre- 
per kind of wood for budding the Hybrid 
Perpetual and many of the Hybrid Tea 
Roses, but the true Teas require careful 
watching as the éye or bud quickly starts 
into growth, and is then nob so suitable. 
Tulipa Greigi is the — 
necessary to take them even before the 
flower is fully expanded. The shoots muse 
not be so dry that they require soaking, anc 
‘this is never necessary excepting in very 
rare cases. We have inserted buds evem 
without removing the wood at all, and they 
have “taken,” but we do not commend the 
practice. Tt is most important for succes 
ful budding to see that the stocks “run” 
well —that is, the sap should be flowing 
freely. It is useless -to bud if the bark does 
not open freely. The safest; method to 
adopt to remove the wood from the bud, is 
to press the thumh nail of the right hand : 
into the wood just above the eye, and with 
the left hand raise the wood and pull at 
towards the right hand, when it will snap 
off near where the thumb nail is pressed. - 
Now change the bud into the left hand and 
yaise the wood from the other end. It willl 
then come out easily, and leave the germ 
“of tlie eye or bud intact. Cut a few shoots 
of a common Rose or Brier and practise 
this removal of the wood before you com- 
mence budding. Tf the shoots are in the 
proper condition—that is to say, half-ripe 
-—-you will soon be able to remove the wood. 
“without difficulty. Do not insert any bud 
where there is a hole left beneath the bid 
after the wood is pulled out, as this is @ 
common cause of failure. There should be 
a small portion of wood beneath the eye 
about the size of a pin’s head, which. im 
reality is the germ of the bud, and it Is 
of vital importance to see that this is not 
removed. 
We always prefer shoots that have blos- 
somed or upon which the flower is opening. 
They are then in their best condition, and 
you should experience no difficulty in re- 
moving the wood. Upon established plants 
the eyes or buds of both Teas and Hybrids 
do not start into growth nearly so quickly 
as they do upon young or maiden plants. 
One may obtain suitable wood from 
most kinds, even after the flower has open- 
ed several days, but in some cases it is 
MULCHING FLOWER BEDS. 
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the 
importance of this work, and the advan- 
tages accruing from the process are always 
apparent. Apart from the fact that less 
watering is required, the ground is kepf 
open by the mulching, and plants are en- 
abled to withstand a long season of drought, 
and hot sun with impunity. This more 
particularly applies to -such subjects aw 
Violas, Pansies, Perennial Phloxes, Cak- 
er 
