8 
each side of the ditches I planted numerous 
patches of herbaceous and bog plants. 
Many of the former were obtained from the 
thinning out of the herbaceous border, and 
many more of both these and the latter 
were procured from the different woods 
and swamps about, such as Ferns, the bril- 
liant Marsh Marigold, the common yellow 
Flags, Meadow Sweet, Loosestrife, some of 
the prettiest of the Sedges and Reeds, and 
many others. Then in the autumn I pur- 
chased several thousand bulbs, the banks 
being planted with Snowdrops, Winter 
Aconite, Snowflakes, Crocuses, Bluebells, 
Grape Hyacinths, Seillas, &e., whilst the 
sides of all the ditches were planted with 
Daffodils and Turk’s Cap Lilies. In the 
north-eastern corner, from which one en- 
ters into the bog garden, I made a rough 
rock garden, and this is covered with vari- 
ous kinds of Ferns, and here the Oak and 
Beech Ferns flourish and seem really “at 
home,” as also the Hart's Tongue and 
<everal other species. 
Of course, as I put in all sorts of plants 
and bulbs at first, regardless of their suit- 
ability for the situation, I had many fail- 
ures, and many died, but quite enough sur_ 
vived to encourage me to persevere, and 
gradually the untidy swamp assumed an 
appearance of beauty; and possibly now 
many would consider the bog garden the 
most interesting and beautiful part of the 
gardens. Many a plant which I have tried 
in vain to grow in the ordinary herbaceous 
garden here not only lives, but flourishes 
with scarcely any care. Phloxes, Delphi- 
niums, Monk’s Hoods, Asters, Day Lilies, 
Plantain Lilies, Torch Lilies, and, above 
all, the Trilliums or Wood Lilies, the Even- 
ing and other Primroses, all flourish here ; 
nor must I forget the Japanese Iris, or Tris 
Kepferi, which also does exceedingly welt. 
Early in February, just as the snow disap- 
pears, some of the banks are clothed in 
white by the Snowdrops, with here and 
there a bright patch of Winter Aconite. 
Then, following these, the other banks 
break out into a mass of various colors as. 
the Crocuses appear, and these again are 
succeeded by a mass of blue from the wild 
and Grape Hyacinths. Later on clumps of 
Tiger and Orange Lilies appear on these 
banks, then all along the ditches and other 
parts of the bog garden appear rows and 
groups of yellow Daffodils, followed by the 
Jonquils and Pheasant’s Eye Narcissi. In 
other parts are groups of Primulas, Cony- 
slips, Tulips, and the brilliant-colored 
Marsh Marigold. Then one of the most 
successful effects is when the mass of. Pri- 
mula japonica comes into bloom, this plant 
BEptatee like a common weed with flower- 
stalks 2 24 ft. high, and seeding itself in. all - 
directions, whilst amongst the scarlet Dog- 
wood the ground is covered with the pretty 
little pink Claytonia, with here and there 
clumps of the graceful Solomon’s Seal. The 
Ferns also luxuriate in the boggy, peaty 
soil; the common Lady Fern grows to a 
gigantic size, the Osmundas also, and the 
Onocleag, but, towering above all, the Os- 
trich-feather Fern (Struthiopteris ger- 
manica) here attains the extraordinary 
aR odandeon clumps. 
THE AUSTRALLAN GARDENER. 
height of over 6 ft. In July, amongst the 
: Fer ns, and in large groups near them, ap- 
pear gigantic white and spotted Foxgloves, 
forming, perhaps, one of the most, atriking 
effects of all, Then come the graceful 
feathery Spireas, the most beautiful of 
which to my mind is the crimson Spirea 
palmata, which grows ulxuriantly here. I 
must not omit to mention here the Califor- 
nian Saxifraga peltata, which lines one of 
the ditches in front of the Ferns, and grows 
nearly 5 ft. high, with its broad, tropical- 
looking leaves. I had great difficulty in 
establishing the Gunneras, but have suc- 
ceeded at last, and they form quite a pic- 
ture by the side of the stream in front of 
a tall group of Bamboos. In August some 
fine clumps of Phloxes and the Golden Rods 
produce some bright coloring, and, finally, 
in September and October, appear the 
Torch Liles, and some grand groups of 
Asters to finish up with. 
Almost every week the picture changes, 
and for ten months in the year some part 
is bright and gay with flowers, and, even 
in December and January, the scar let-bark- 
ed Dogwood gives a bright: and cheery 
effect, ‘contrasting with ithe dark green 
This garden is a 
source of continuous amusement and 
and, as I not only planned and constructed 
the whole, but also do all the work of re- 
planting and weeding myself, I look upon 
it far more than any other part of the gar- 
dens as especially my own garden. 
C. W. Wotsetey, “Gardening Illustrated.” 
AURICULAS. 
Auriculas may be divided into three 
classes—namely, alpine, border, and show. 
The two first are charming garden flowers, 
but the last can only be successfully culti- 
vated in pots. Alpine Auriculas are divid- 
ed again into two sections, those with grey” 
or white centres, and those with ‘yellow 
centres. A native of the high Alps, the 
Auricula is by nature a perfectly hardy 
plant. Old specimens of border varieties 
may be met with in gardens that have been 
undisturbed fox years, and have formed 
large tufts both on stiff clay soils and in a 
lighter and more porous staple. These old 
plants are best divided, lifting the entire 
clump carefully, shaking it free of soil, and 
parting each separate crown, which should 
at once be planted in fresh soil. In rais- 
ing from seed, this should be sown in boxes 
in the early spring in a gentle heat of 
about 50 deg. Good drainage should be 
provided, and over this fibrous loam and 
leaf-mould in equal proportions placed, the 
top inch of the compost being a mixture of 
leaf-mould and sand. When the seedlings 
are large enough to handle they should be 
pricked out and placed 2} in. apart in other 
boxes or pans, removed to the open air, and 
planted out in a partially shaded border 
after mid-summer. In scorching weather 
artificial shade is beneficial to the seedlings. 
These remarks apply to the alpine and 
border Auriculas, and not to the show 
varieties, which are always grown in pots. 
Every one who grows Auriculas should 
March 1, 1905 
raise plants annually from seed, for it is a 
sportive flower, and there is always a chance 
of raising seedlings that are far more beau- 
tiful than their parents, and in this man- 
ner strains may be immensely improved 
in the course of a few years. As bettex 
varieties are obtained, the washy, badly- 
coloured, or weak-habited plants should, be 
weeded out. What is required of a border 
or alpine Auricula is clear markings, 
bright color if a self, sturdy, erect stems, 
and free-flowering habit, and in these there 
is still room for further improvement HH 
careful cross-fertilization be practised 
Show Auriculas are divided into five see- 
tions—namely, selfs, white-edged, grey~ 
edged, green-edged, and fancies, the last 
section including flowers that, though: 
often pretty, may not be admitted inte 
any of the other four sections. The foliage: 
of the show Auricula is covered with x 
mealy substance, and portions of the flowers: 
with a white, floury powder. Thus the 
centre of the flower is yellow; this is sur~ 
rounded by a ring of farina, outside ef 
which is a ring of dark color, beyond which 
is an edging of green, grey, or white. This: 
outer edging is, in fact, a development of 
Jeaf-like properties in the petal. In the 
green-edged this is unpowdered, but in the 
grey- -edged and white-edged the green is 
covered with a, white powderi ing, the den- 
sity of which powdering constitutes the dif- 
ference between the white-cdged and the 
grey-edged sections. Alpine Auriculas are. 
destitute of powdery matter on their petals,. 
as are those of the border section, whieh: 
may be termed less refined alpine Aur 
culas. S. WL. F. 
ZONAL GERANIUMS. 
Skilful watering and thorough ventila 
tion are the two principal factors in the: 
successful cultivation of Zonals. Always: 
use tepid water, as cold water is apt to: 
check the delicate roots. Only give water 
when the soil is nearly dry, then afford as 
much as the pots will, hold, and wait unt 
they again get nearly dry before giving: 
more. On no account get into the habit 
of hovering over the plants with the water— 
can, giving little drops here and therez 
Nothing is more: detrimental to the welE- 
being of the plants. 
When convenient it is a good plan ta 
water in the morning, as then the surplus: 
moisture is dried up before night. This: 
practice, coupled with proper ventilation,, 
goes a long way in preventing mildew, the 
great bane of Zonal growers. It also helps 
to prolong the life of the blooms. 
In regard to ventilation, we can scarcely 
give too much air, provided, of course, we 
avoid draughts. Whenever the weather 
permits leave the top véntilators and the 
door wide open. The frame lights musfi. 
also be raised whenever possible, it being 
most important to allow free circulation of 
air among the plants. In damp, chilly 
weather it is advisable to warm the pipes 
and give top ventilation rather than shut? 
the house and frames close, a still, stag- 
nant atmosphere being fatal to successful 
culture. 
