q 
4 THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
strengthen it, where ‘young and ‘growing 
leaves are a weakening influence. Good 
gardeners regularly take off the prominent 
eyes as well as the leaves from some cut- 
tings, in order to lock up the sape and 
secure the formation of roots. 
SOWING HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL 
SEEDS. 
One of the greatest dangers to be avoid- 
ed in sowing fine seed is covering them tco 
deep. It is better not to cover at all than 
run the risk of covering too much. Somc- 
thing in the shape of a flour sifter will be 
found extremely useful where any quantity 
of seed is to be sown. A. safe rule to go 
by isto cover the finer seeds about their 
own depth. : 
Seeds vary considerably in the time it 
takes them to germinate. New seed will 
come up much more promptly than old’seed 
of the same kind. The following list wiil 
give an idea of the varying periods requir- 
ed for the different kinds to germinate, 
sown, under favorable conditions, the ap- 
proximate number of days being given 1 
each instance: Anthemis campaniana, 2 ; 
A. Kelwayi, 4; Alyssum saxatile compac- 
tum, 9; Aquilegia coerulea, 20; A. flabel- 
lata nana alba, 20; A. vulgaris fl. pl., 20; 
Armeria plantaginea; 9, Asclepias tube- 
rosa, 11; Bellis perennis, 3; Campanula 
grandis, 9; C. media, 12; C. persicifolia, 
14; C. persicifolia Moorheimi, 9; Cen- 
taurea montana, 9; Centaurea dealbata, 
9; Chelone barbata, 12; Delphinium for- 
mosum, 9; Delphinium chinense, 11; Dig:- 
talis grandiflora, 14 ; Gypsophila paniculata, 
6; Gnaphalium leontopodium, 12; Heu- 
chera brizoides, 20; Heliopsis Pitcherians, 
9 ; Lychnic flos-cuculi, 9 ; Papaver orientale, 
9; Platycodon Mariesti, 14; Scabiosa cau- 
easica, 13; Lychnis viscaria splendens, 8; 
Iberis sempervirens, 8; Lupinus polyphyi- 
lus, 8; Statice latifolia, 20; Digitalis Pur- 
purea, 12; Gaillardia grandiflora, 8. 
After the seed germinates there fellows a 
period varying from two to three weeks 
before the seedlings are ready to handle. 
As a general rule, it will be found that 
the sooner this can be done the better. 
Tt is customary to wait until the caarsc- 
ter leaf is developed; but this is not at alt 
necessary. If the seedlings show a tendency 
to damp off, pricking off will very likely 
save them, even though they are only in 
a cotyledonous state. After the seedlings 
have been pricked off, their growth 1s usu- 
ally very rapid, and they will soon ho 
ready to put into two ane Ws a pots. 
reparatory to going outside. d , 
Pre pecscat 33 se Ernest Hemmine. 
LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 
By J. Woopwarp . Mannine. 
Many gardeners feel that their duties are 
altogether too varied now, and their pre- 
cont efforts are not sufficiently appreciated 
as it is. It cannot be denied thau this 
may be so; but may this not be due to 
yourself, largely? This may or may not be 
possible according to opportunities; do 
you make the most of such whenever they 
eccur! Is not your greatest opportunity in 
so broadening your knowledge and apply- 
ing it that your worth may have greater 
reccgnition? If your duties are so nume- 
rous and varied that gardening must of 
necessity be a minor matter, you may still 
broaden your knowledge as far as possible ; 
but look to it that as soon as may be you 
cbtain a situation elsewhere that your gar- 
dening propensities may be better apprecia- 
ted and encouraged. The broadening pub- 
lic interest in gardening that is being pro- 
duced by the numerous horticultural books 
and papers, now existing or promised, is but 
a forerunner of what is to follow. 
Don't fall into the common. error of fol- 
lowing a rut of work, planting only what 
you have planted in the past, repeating the 
same treatment in the most perfunctory 
manner. Don’t feel that yow should neces- 
sarily be directed by the owner without 
taking the initiative when opportunity pre- 
sents; this may be unavoidable, perhaps 
the fault is yours. 
The solving of the problem of oppor- 
tunity I consider of the highest importance 
for the gardener in showing his worth, and 
this problem is that fundamental basis of 
landscape gardening that I am advising you 
to practise where you study to make the 
carpatica, 12; ©. carpatica alba, 12; ©. | most of what you have to work with rather 
' than to follow the lead of some rival, par- 
ticularly when conditions may be so dif- 
ferent as to make such an attempt ludi- 
crous. First study the place as a whole 
and convince yourself at the outset as to 
what the limitations must be. The natu- 
ral conditions ought to solve the problem 
largely; if bare open area, then you musi 
produce the future picture; if possess- 
ing rugged or picturesque features, arrive 
at an carly decision as to whether such con- 
ditions are not the forerunner of the policy 
you ought to pursue; and if so, use every” 
precaution to preserve what nature may be 
abundantly supplying. An old tree may 
be favorably placed to give emphasis 
to a view; the study of how to add a 
bit of planting to aid the effect and com- 
plete tho picture or to improve by a little 
judicious thinning with due regard to the 
preservation of the best will be interesting. 
Perhaps you can save an outcropping ledge 
that might ordinarily be considered an en- 
cumbrance when it may be the opportu- 
nity to form an interesting feature of it- 
self; or, with proper planting form the 
nucleus of something of harmonious inte- 
rest. The use of the greatest discretion in 
clearing underbrush in a bit of woods, with 
a careful discernment as to whether the na- 
tive growth does not of itself have ornamen- 
tal value in better harmony and attractive- 
ness than could be produced artificially ; 
even a mass of clinging poison ivy clamber- 
ing over a sturdy tree trunk may perhaps 
be preserved, provided you supply planting 
at the base of an impenetrable nature to 
preclude any danger. ' 
Recognise and study the value of cur 
April 1, 1905 
common native plants, our ferns, native 
reses, our own wild asters and columbines, 
with hazels and many other that the lands- 
cape architect has had sufficient discern- 
ment to take advantage of. Many of these 
plants are adapted to shady or sterile situa- 
tions where effort to establish exotic plants 
would be disappointing. This by no means, 
however, precludes the use of the exotics 
therever their proper place may be. 
You can get lots of good points from nature 
on the grouping and combination of plants 
that will work to advantage under varied 
conditions. 
Carefully study the adaptability of 
plants; don’t place rhododendron and, aza- 
lea beds in sunny unprotected, dry situa- 
tions, where annual expense will be requir- 
ed to provide the needed protection arti- 
ficially, and which can only partially pro- 
duc the desired results and eventually dis- 
courage your employer in such expenses. 
FERNS AS BEDDING PLANTS. 
When. we talk about bedding plants, we 
generally have in view those which will 
produce a mass of color in the summer. 
Too often, I am afraid, we succeed in ob- 
taihing so much color that our eyes ache 
with looking at it. 
Masses of different colors which are so 
arranged that they harmonise, do not: of- 
fend the eye so much, but of late years the 
tendency has been to judiciously mix foll- 
age and flowering plants, and a good com- 
bination of the two has the best: effect of 
all. 
But there are places in many’ gardens 
where flowering and foliage plants will not 
thrive satisfactorily. Such positions are 
those overshadowed by tall trees or build- 
ings; and these are the very spots for 
planting ferns; not in. rockeries, a plant. 
here and another there, but a bed of them. 
In the hot days of summer it is restful 
to gaze upon luxuriant ferns; and, besides 
being in themselves pleasing, they add to 
the beauty of a whole garden, setting off, as 
it, were, the borders occupied by flowering 
plants. ee 
The soil will, in most cases, need a spe- 
cial preparation. If it is not light loam or 
sandy, some of the original soil must be 
taken out and a mixture of sand, peat, and 
leaf soil put in its place. Where peat is 
used, make the compost fairly firm before 
lanting is done. 
It would be better to try one bed first 
and, do it well than fill several badly. Put 
out plants from pots principally; hardy 
sorts should be selected for this purpose. 
I will here give one example of a fern bed 
—a round one. In the ctntre plant the 
Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis, one or more 
plants according to the size of the bed. 
Next, three plants of Woodwardia angusti- 
folia; then clumps of Onoclea sensibilis 
between the Woodwardias, but also pro- 
jecting unevenly towards the outer edgo — 
of the bed. Near the edga plant clumps of 
Scolopendrium vulgare, with a finishing 
band of Athyrium Filix-femina, the Lady 
