THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
11 
April 1, 1905 
DAFFODILS. ; 
“T am tired of growing Hyacinths,” ob- 
served a friend of mine just recently. “TI 
spend: money on. bulbs every autumn, and 
after they have flowered once I never seem 
to see any more of them. I want some- 
thing that can be relied on to come up 
again.” 
Here was my chance; I recommended 
Daffodils, as I da now to any one who maiy 
be in the same predicament. I look upon 
money spent on these bulbs in the light of 
an investment, because in addition to the 
enjoyment derived from the flowers, they 
increase so rapidly as to return the capital 
with interest in a few years. Yet the ac- 
commodating nature of the Daffodil in this 
respect is often detrimental to its own in- 
terest, because bulbs are frequently planted 
and then left to multiply and overcrowd 
each other. 
When bulbs are naturalised ini turf there 
is no need to disturb them, but when grown 
in beds and borders they should be lifted 
every few years and divided, not only for 
the sake of increasing the stock, but also 
in the interest of bulbs and flowers, both 
of which deteriorate in size and strength 
if this operation is entirely neglected. 
Two years ago last autumn I planted ai 
number of bulbs of that superb Daffodil, Sir 
Watkin, and this spring, after the flower- 
ing was over, I lifted a clump for inspec- 
tion. 1n the place of one bulb I now have three, 
all capable’ of flowering. Though growing to- 
gether in a clump the bulbs were not joined 
when they were lifted, except through the inter- 
lacing of the roots, so that division was easily 
effected by shfiking out the latter. 
Spring is the time to decide whether the 
Daffodils should be lifted and divided or 
not, but the operation should be performed 
when the bulbs are at rest. After the 
foliage has died away lift the clum ps 
with a fork, pull the bulbs apart, and 
replant them. I can hardly give rules as to 
the depth to which bulbs should be planted, 
as the latter vary so much in size; but it is 
a good plan tio cover them, with about as 
much soil as the bulb measures in height. 
Daffodils do so well in the majority of 
gardens that the grower has no need to 
worry himself oni the score of soil. Little 
or no manure is required if the soil is of a 
fertile, loamy character, but if it is poor a 
dressing of decayed farmyard manure may 
be dug in several inches below the bulbs 
prior to planting. 
Finally, let me advise those who have 
large, long established clumps to spend a 
little time this summer in dividing and 
transplanting, for the double purpose of 
improvement and increase. 
VERNON. 
HOW TO MAKE A ROCKERY. 
Yiou can make a pretty rockery with al- 
most any stone, provided that the planting 
is properly done so as to hide any defi- 
ciencies in the material. As to the forma- 
tion of the rockery, you can either make a 
framework of stones first, or make a mound 
of earth and face it up with stones after- 
wards. Both methods have their advan- 
tages and their advocates, but you will 
find the latter the simpler and easier. If 
you elect to adopt it, make up your mound 
to the desired height, making the soil firm, 
so that it will subside as little as posstble. 
Then place the stones in position, begin- 
ning with the bottom row all round and 
gradually working up, packing up behind 
the stones with soil as the work proceeds, 
<c¢ ag not to leave any cavities. If, however, 
you prefer the other method, first place the 
bottem row of stones in their places, and 
then fill up behind with soil to the level 
of where the next row is to be placed, and 
so on, until the proper height is attained. 
See that the stones are firm and will not be 
dislodged by treading upon them for access 
to the plants, also that they lean slightly 
inwardd at the top. You will find that! the 
plants do best if the reckeny is arranged in: 
a series of flati terraces, each row of stones 
receding a little from the other, so as to 
leave spaces for the plants. It may look a 
httle stiff at first, but in a short time the 
growth of the flowers will change all this; 
while the plants will thrive better and 
give less trouble. TI shall be pleased to be 
of further service.—S. R. N. 
i POTTING. 
Probably the commonest: mistake made 
in the garden is that of filling flower pots 
too full of soil. Even professional gardeners 
of wide experience are not blameless ini this 
respect. In the summer the evil arising 
from carelessness in this respect is far worse 
than in the winter, when, indeed, a too 
full cramming of a pot with’ soil has fre- 
quently been the salvation of a plant under 
the care of a heavy handed waterer. 
A. plant in ia pot very full of soil rarely, 
if ever, gets a thorough watering; its top 
roots may be moistened, but its lower ones 
are frequently dust dry for days together. 
As a consequence, the leaves turn yellow, 
the plant drcops and dies, and the cultiva- 
tor becomes disheartened, and maybe 
abuses his nurseryman for supplying un- 
satisfactory stuff. 
A too full pot allows of no room for top- 
dressings, and these, as most of us know, 
are one of the greatest aids toi successful 
plant culture. The water pot is also more 
censtantly in requisition to keep its sur- 
face soil moist than is the case with its 
less filled companions. Roots frequently 
push near the surface soil of a pot, and 
so reduce the distance between it and. the 
brim of the pot. When this is so, repotting 
is the cure, taking care that the ball is 
_ placed lower in the new pot. 
It is hard to give a rule for the filling of 
nots, as these vary so much in size, but the 
smallest should never have less than 4 in. 
of space between the top of the soil and the 
brim, while the largest sizes may range 
between 1 in. and 3 in. Top-dressings will 
considerably reduce the latter space, and 
will do away with the need for repotting.' 
—E. J.C. 
The Orchasd. 
— o——— 
OPERATIONS FOR APRIL. 
Where long rank grass or heavy weeds oc- 
cur in the orchard, mow and remove toi a 
pit where it may rot into useful manure, 
cr feed to pigs or other stock. Props and 
supports of all kinds should be removed 
from the orchard as soon as the crop 1s 
eathered. The tree itself should. be strong 
enough to support its crop, and where other 
means are employed it is clear that trees 
have not been properly designed and cared 
for. However, if trees are loosely made, and 
bear heavily, some additional support must 
be brought in; but it is bad to leave these 
in. or about the trees all the year round, as 
they cause wounds, and encourage a lot of 
filth which could not be generated on live 
and healthy wood. ; 
In warm districts, where soil is mellow 
and sweet, citrus may be planted out. A 
ctake should be placed to each, and the 
head thinned! in the top, so that the wind 
will have no power to blow them about 
badly. 
Start root growth in all weakly trees by 
cultivating and moistening the soil. Water 
may or may not be necessary. In any case, 
the object is to create a temperature and 
degree of moisture’in the soil favorable to 
free root extension. This work of growing 
commences early or late, according to the 
season and geographical position. It 1s 
not right to cause the head of the tree to 
grow by any system of late summer or 
autumn irrigating and cultivating, as when- 
ever this occurs a large proportion, or all 
the buds, are thrown out of use for the fol- 
lowing year. In a mixed orchard, where 
trees are of various ages, shape, and degrees 
of vigor, different treatment must be ac- 
corded. Feed and encourage more root 
extension on the part of the young and the 
weakly, but let the strong alone till they 
produce more ripe and fruitful wood on 
the existing framework. It is often neces- 
sary to feed the fruit on a strong tree, 
through the absence of moisture or sap cir 
culating in summer, but it is seldom ad- 
visable to give extra nourishment to’ its 
roots during autumn or spring. Remove — 
any bandages which have been employed to 
protect weak andi sensitive bark from, the 
hot sun. It is always advisable to keep the 
bark of young trees soft and mellow, hence 
the great value of bandaging in hot 
weather; but if the bark is suddenly ex- 
posed by the removal of the protective 
covering during winter, it is lable to split 
and, cause serious injury. - 
The leaves of all deciduous fruit trees 
should still be fairly strong and green. Yel- 
low is the color in autumn leaves which 
gives the most certain indication of weak- 
ness, as no leaf which has been properly 
fed, done its work well, and remained sound 
unto autumn, will be wholly destitute of 
staing and blotches. Plum leaves are 
usually the first to fall, and they are often. 
unduly hastened by the parasitic red spider 
