abnormally rapid it is unlikely to flower or produce fruit. Your over-fertilized peach tree 
is likely to produce no fruit. 
Do not fertilize a plant in dry soil, or use any fertilizer (unless thoroly rotted in a 
compost heap) in the soil before planting bulbs, seeds or plants. Water lawns, trees, and 
plants well the day before applying fertilizer and again a few days after application. Do 
not fertilize a sick plant in order to make it well. You are more likely to make it worse 
or even kill it. Small plants and seedlings should not have too much either. Lush, rapid 
growth may be weak and “flabby.” Sturdy growth with firm structure is better. Chemical 
fertilizers are like “patent” medicines. They are stimulating but often the final result 
is bad. The physical structure of soils is the most important thing. A well drained, friable ~ 
soil is the best. Sand and humus can be added in sufficient quantities at least in flower 
beds and the humus can be added in fields by growing cover crops. For humus, add 
rotted manure, composted weeds, grasses and leaves, leaf mould or peat. It is seldom 
necessary to add any but organic materials to soils. 
After blooming, many neglect their bulbs. As a result the bulbs do not flower the 
following year. For success one must continue to give good culture. This is the time to 
fertilize, irrigate and cultivate frequently, until yellowing foliage indicates the bulb is 
becoming dormant. During the growth period next year’s flower buds are formed. 
Depth of planting and distance apart often cause too much concern. Bulbs usually 
have sufficient adaptability to do well under widely varying conditions. If left in one 
place a few years, most bulbs adjust themselves to their preferred depth. Approximately, 
bulbs should be about 2 or 3 times their diameter apart unless their habit of growth 1s 
spreading—like Ranunculus. In such cases plant farther apart. Bulbs as large as Daffodils 
may be 4” to 6” deep. Bulbs with a heavy erect stem need deep planting in order to 
remain erect. Plant deeper in light sandy soils than in heavy soils and in cold climates 
to protect them from frost. 
Pests. Snails, slugs, ants, mealy bugs, thrips, aphis, leaf hoppers, mites, red spider 
and scale are among the most serious pests in the garden or on house and greenhouse 
plants. They must be controlled. 
See our listing of Insecticides under Garden Supplies. 
If you do much garden work and end the day too tired, you owe it to yourself to 
use our light weight plastic and indestructible garden hose. See the listing. It is the most 
economical of all. 
Acid and Alkaline Soils. Most plants thrive in mildly acid, neutral or mildly alkaline 
soils. But others do not have so wide a range of tolerance. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, 
Camellias, Gardenias, Zantedeschias, Caladiums (and other members of Arum family), 
Nerines, Haemanthus, Gloxinias, Begonias, Orchids and most shade loving plants require 
an acid soil. Some like Gladiolus prefer mildly acid to neutral soils; Bearded Iris do best 
in neutral to alkaline soils. The acid-alkali balance depends ton the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in a saturated solution. This is expressed in pH units. pH 7 is neutral. 
Below that the acidity increases; above it the alkalinity increases. For the mathematical, 
I will explain that the numeral is the negative logarithm denoting the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in gram atoms per liter. 
In regions having heavy rainfall, excess alkali is usually dissolved and carried away 
by the runoff. Semi-arid regions usually have alkaline soils. Calif. soils usually have too 
much unless cover crops or applications of humus, which are acid, have lowered the pH. 
I am told the Texas soils are sometimes too alkaline. The remedy is obvious. Apply 
humus, ground phosphate rock, or small, even applications of sulphur. Improve the 
drainage. | 
Potting Directions. Use clean pots of the right size, neither too large nor too small. 
A 24%” Amaryllis, for example, needs a 6” pot. A 144'" Eucharis needs a 5” pot. Small 
bulbs like Rannunculus or Achimenes may have 3 to 5 in a 5” or 6” pot. Cover the hole 
at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place small pieces 
of broken pot and gravel. This helps to drain away excess water. Over this drainage 
material we usually place a handful of sphagnum moss to prevent the soil from sifting 
into and clogging the drainage material. 
