placed in one genus, Epidendrums, and under the genus Amaryllis he included certain 
Crinums, Zephyranthes, Sprekelias, Brunsvigias, Nerines, etc. Botany is a progressive 
science and later explorations and discoveries have made possible many improvements in 
plant classifications and have required changes in nomenclature. Horticulturists are often 
loath to accept the new classifications and names. But we must do so even if inconvenient 
at first. It is not logical to continue an error. 
In our catalogs, we accept changes in classification and names as made by recent 
writers in Herbertia. These have been approved by “Gentes Herbarum,” the publication 
of the Bailey Hortorium of Cornell University. To help you avoid ordering a bulb you 
already have we give both old and new names, thus: Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis bella- 
donna); Amaryllis advena, (Hippeastrum advenum). 
Agapanthus means Love Flower. Blooms in spring and summer. Large attractive 
umbels, blue or white on tall erect stiff stems. Easy to grow in south in full sun or slight 
shade, any good soil, and in the north in tubs or buckets, wintered in basement. Delivery 
any time. 
A. longispathus. New species. Flowers resemble Orientalis but blooms more pro- 
fusely and is more graceful. 50c. 
A. orientalis (unbellatus). Blue Lily of the Nile. Our variety is an especially fine one 
with deep blue flowers on a tal! stem. Many flowers are produced in spring and thru 
summer. 50c ea. Extra large roots, 75c. 
A. orientalis, “Sky Blue.” Lovely light blue. 75c ea. 
A. orientalis alba. A pure white. $2.00. 
Amaryllis Linn. This genus as constructed by Linneaus was untenable because he in- 
cluded plants now known to belong to other genera. The invalid name Hippeastrum was 
used by both Herbert and Baker, but now we are scientifically correct when we use the 
name that has always been most popular. To the word “Hippeastrum,” literally translated 
“horse star,” we can now say “horse feathers,” and forget the word. . 
Amaryllis are the easiest, the most showy and popular of all bulbs for growing in 
pots. Equally desirable for southern gardens where they are hardy along the east coast to 
N. Car. and on the west to Vancouver. In the middle section they may be grown as far 
north as Ark. and Okla., but note special directions for colder sections. 
How to Grow Amaryllis. In the garden, in the deep south where temperatures go 
only a few degrees under freezing, Amaryllis bulbs need to be covered only about an inch 
or two. Farther north they should be planted about an inch below frost penetration, in 
protected places and mulched with straw, leaves and/or brush. In Okla., a customer re- 
ports a depth of 4” with mulch is safe. Try our “Hardy Hybrids” and don’t plant over 
about 6” deep to top of bulb. 4” is better. 
Imported, green house grown Amaryllis usually do not do very well in outside 
garden. We advise pot growing and if shifted to outside in summer, do not let them be- 
come dry or otherwise neglect them. In order to achieve high quality of flowers, foreign 
breeders neglect sturdiness and hardiness. 
In Pots. A bulb 3” or less in diam. needs a 7” pot, and larger bulbs need larger pots. 
It is better to pot in Nov. or Dec. Better blooms result. But one can pot them as late as 
March and it is better late than never. The early potted bulbs will start more easily and 
give better flowers, but in either case the flowers will be better and will show more fully 
their full quality the second year. 
The best potting soil is a rich sandy loam. If not sandy use a friable loam and add 
sand. To this add an equal quantity of well screened and well rotted dairy manure and 
leaf mould. Use no fresh or partially decayed manure. | have always advised against the 
use of any peat or Sphagnum in the Amaryllis soil. This was a deduction from the fact 
that I had found that sulphur in Amaryllis soil is toxic to the bulbs. I attributed the bad 
effect to the acidity of sulphur. If this were true then peat or sphagnum would be bad, 
as both are acid. A few months ago, a customer brought the remnants of an imported 
Dutch Amaryllis which she could not make grow. Knowing the value of sphagnum for 
starting cuttings and a good many tubers of the Gesneriaceae and Araceae and many 
bulbs, seeds, etc., I tried the Amaryllis in pure sphagnum. It was rooted within a week 
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