Loss of flowers is the first evidence of something wrong: This may result from sudden 
changes, drafts, too high a temperature in summer and in winter it may result if tem- 
perature goes much under 60° for more than an hour or two. 
African Violets grown at a congenial temperature are usually killed if subjected to 
lower than 40°. It may be that if kept at 50° for some time they might then survive a 
lower temperature. But they neither grow nor flower at 50°. Therefore it is impossible 
for us to send you plants by mail in winter, to a cold climate. In favorable weather we 
can usually send to’ warmer sections of the south. Express is safer. Nor do we ship on 
very hot days in summer. We plan to ship so that they do not arrive to you on a week 
end and thus remain in a carton a day or two. 
As growers seeking to sell plants to amateurs, we are interested in your success and 
for that reason we plan our shipping dates as explained and tell you how to grow them 
when you receive them. It is not enough that you receive nice plants in bud or bloom. 
They must continue to grow and bloom for you. Some growers overlook one factor. Mrs. 
Rector in her fine book on African Violets relates the practice of one grower who keeps 
his greenhouses heated to 80°. The plants grow more rapidly and flower much younger 
at this temperature but when transferred to living rooms, most of the old top dies off 
and the plants do not flower again for from 6 mo. to one year. Our Saintpaulia Green- 
house is heated and air conditioned. The thermostats are set to regulate the temperature 
range to that which is usually found in living rooms. Thus there is no great shock to set 
the plants back when moved. Many of our customers report first that plants are received 
in excellent to perfect condition and later that they are still flowering. 
Watering. Do not ever use cold water. The water should be near the room tempera- 
ture and never over 10° lower or higher. Most of our watering is done by spraying with 
a hose. The plants need to have the foliage sprayed and it does not spot the foliage if no 
sun falls on the foliage before they dry off. If late in morning cover plants with news- 
papers after watering, until dry. The interval between waterings should be long enough 
to permit the top soil to become slightly dry. 
Very many advise to set the pots in a pan of tepid water, and to remove when the 
surface becomes moist. This is an allowable practice but it requires supplementary pro- 
cedures. One must sometimes spray the foliage and also water from the top of pot part 
of the time. Culture advice for any house plant usually says, “Be sure the drainage is 
perfect.” But sub-irrigation does not result in perfect drainage. Not enough water is 
likely to drain away when removed from a pan of water. Most of us must use hard water 
containing soluble alkaline or other salts. When subirrigated these salts remain in the 
soil and are added to by each irrigation. Nearly all cultivated plants, particularly shade 
loving plants, require some leaching of the soil to remove excess soluble salts. Continued 
too long, subirrigation may raise the soil pH sufficiently to stop flowering. 
Good ventilation is needed by all plants but Saintpaulias do not like drafts. Slow 
movement of air currents are more conducive to their comfort. 
Soil formulae. Some growers sell prepared soils. Probably they are nearly all good. 
But the plants have a considerable tolerance and do well! in a wide variety of soils. They 
should be at least mildly acid in reaction and a type that will drain easily and quickly. 
Heavy clay soils, therefore are not good. 
We use about one half oak or redwood leaf mould and one half sandy loam or good 
loose garden loam. To this is added encugh sponge rock or coarse sand to make the soil 
gritty and aid drainage. Fine screened peat is as good or better than leaf mould. It is not 
at all necessary to buy prepared soils. 
Fertilizers. We use only Spoonit and recommend it to be applied once a month, on 
a day following watering. 
Sun exposure. Most of the advice one receives over-emphasizes shade. Lack of suf- 
ficient light intensity seems to us to be one of the most frequent causes of non-blooming. 
All shade plants need a certain amount of modified sunlight to make them flower. In 
the winter, the sun is at a low declination. Its rays must pass thru several times the thick- 
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