~""- HOW TO PRUNE AND PLANT — Cont. 
and*hand saws are the best tools to use. All tools should 
be sharp. 
In planting, dig generous sized holes with perpendicular 
sides (never saucer shape). Put the good dirt to one side 
so that you can use it around the roots. Loosen up the 
soil in the bottom of the hole. Set trees one or two inches 
deeper than they stood in the nursery; set shrubs at 
about the same depth they stood in the nursery or slightly 
deeper. Spread roots out naturally and work soil’ over 
and around them. Keep putting in good dirt until the 
hole is nearly full, tramping the dirt firmly about the 
roots. Fill the hole with water. Finally fill up the hole 
with loose dirt which should not be tramped, leaving 
a saucer-like depression to retain water. 
ALWAYS KEEP ROOTS COVERED 
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FILL HOLE AND TRAMP 
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SOIL THE HARDER THE TRAMP — WITH MULCH 
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NOTE — MANURE, UNLESS WELL ROTTED AND 
THOROUGHLY MIXED WITH THE SOIL SHOULD 
BE USED ONLY ON TOP IF USED AT ALL. 
SHADE TREES. With shade trees having a heavy top, 
at least one-third of the top should be removed. Prune 
branches at points indicated by black lines (see illustra- 
tion on page 5). Prune to avoid crowding branches. Cut 
out a large proportion of the small branches and shorten 
back the side branches. Try to get well developed head, 
strong leader and branches at wide, not close, angles. 
Cut off all broken roots. Plant as directed above. 
FRUIT TREES. With branched fruit trees as Peach, 
Cherry, Plum, Apple and Pear Trees, select three to five 
side branches on different sides of the trunk and 6 to 8 
inches apart and cut back one-third their length. Select 
Prune for the plant's sake, not for pruning's sake. 
6 
